the big rc

iTrader: (40)

Sorry, i thought you meant C hubs like AE rears. My mistake.

xrayrc

iTrader: (63)

Looking for more grip cannot seem to put any power down without the rear end washing out. Can anyone provide any tips gonna try RM4 next...

murky123

make your wheelbase longer. put the 4mm spacers in front of the rear hub instead of behind.
swap the 7.5 motor for a 8.5 motor, 7.5T is to much for low grip situations
and try a fullsize stickpack instead of a shorty in the back. that will add some weight.
and be easy on the throttle
swap the geardiff for a balldiff , that will give you better "feel" of the power you can put down. Gear diffs work best in high grip situations.

a gear diff witk 2K oil , I use on high grip carpet tracks. the complete opposite of what you drive on. on lowgrip dirt or clay always a balldiff.

edit: what +8mm chassis do you run? On low grip you need the car to be forgiving and therefore a lot of flex in the chassis is good. I advise the DIMEC over the DIMEC20

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

Stand up rear shocks and shorten up the rear camber links.

That should help some.

porter

iTrader: (47)

May also try going to 30* caster... That should help the car to be easier to drive...

Atomicsickness

iTrader: (26)

What type of rear traction are you trying to increase? Because there is a tradeoff to both. Are you looking for side bite (lateral traction) or forward traction?

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

Also if your going to stay with gear diff you need to lighten up the oil. Try 80 wt shock oil or at least drop it to 1,000wt. 2,000 in this car is perfect for high grip conditions.

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

Does anyone know where the front hub will be in stock? Unreal that a company expects people to wait a month for parts that will obviously break. Thinking I might have made a mistake switching now.

No one in our area carries anything durango, amain and tower are out. Thinking if tower is out, I am gonna be out of luck.

Anyone have any ideas?

majorsmx521

iTrader: (44)

Kevin
pm ed you, might be able to help

singlemike

iTrader: (1)

which side do you need?
I may be able to send you one.

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

Left side.

Thanks

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

Funny thing is that I have been driving it for a few weeks now. Have just about every part needed. The first thing I break is the one I can't get. B4.2 is looking really nice right now.

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Check ebay, saw some on there this morning. Absolute hobbyz out of Jersey.

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

I use four-hole pistons that like many others I created using the stock six-hole black pistons and gluing two holes.

I see that some of the four-hole tapered and dual tapered are finally appearing in stock.

I'm thinking about buying these as back up for when the glue holes may pop out.

I have lots of questions regarding pistons as they're still an aspect of setup that I'm not fully comfortable with.

What are the differences between tapered and dual tapered? Is one generally preferred over the other?

How do these compare with the stock non-tapered black pistons? That is, if I'm running 1.2 black (stock), would I bore out the tapered/dual tapered to 1.2 or a size less (or more) to accomidate for the taper(s)?

I figure I'll buy some of these next time I make an order. It seems like I could buy a couple sets and hand bore them out if that's whats suggested.

Doughty

If you want the car to square up more when exiting corners (more rear traction on corner exit)

Switch to the ball diff and run it reasonably tight.
Change to hole #2 on rear arm

the car will feel 100% different with just the diff changed.

the most critical thing with setting up a 2WD is the diff, its a little about driver preference, but if you want the car to square up on power and your running a gear diff, put a ball diff in there, the car will instantly be different.


Regarding the Caster Blocks - I believe they should be back in stock with Tower within a few days.