20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
11-27-2012, 03:47 PM
#8131
Definitely have some 5x10's on hand as spares, and maybe one or two 10x15's.
The internal bearings (top shaft, steering and diff) last a long time. The 5x10 wheel bearings are a big improvement over the 6x10's in the previous ride in durability due to being higher profile, but if you smack a wall pretty good they'll still get notchy.
Check them by taking them out, spinning on a pencil (with some pressure to simulate cornering, not just freewheeling). If they're crunchy, replace.
The ceramics are a good upgrade, they stay smoother much longer even with abuse.
The internal bearings (top shaft, steering and diff) last a long time. The 5x10 wheel bearings are a big improvement over the 6x10's in the previous ride in durability due to being higher profile, but if you smack a wall pretty good they'll still get notchy.
Check them by taking them out, spinning on a pencil (with some pressure to simulate cornering, not just freewheeling). If they're crunchy, replace.
The ceramics are a good upgrade, they stay smoother much longer even with abuse.
11-27-2012, 04:19 PM
#8132
Thanks, I have about 15 hours of actual runtime racing on an asphalt parking lot. Wasn't sure how often bearing wore out. Racing off road, I would replace about every 10-12 races. I am running this car more often with longer run times since we are racing near the house in a school parking lot. I've been running for 1 1/2 hours each time I go race since I'm getting 45min on a 5000mah battery. This car is a blast!
11-27-2012, 05:42 PM
#8135
11-27-2012, 07:09 PM
#8136
Definitely have some 5x10's on hand as spares, and maybe one or two 10x15's.
The internal bearings (top shaft, steering and diff) last a long time. The 5x10 wheel bearings are a big improvement over the 6x10's in the previous ride in durability due to being higher profile, but if you smack a wall pretty good they'll still get notchy.
Check them by taking them out, spinning on a pencil (with some pressure to simulate cornering, not just freewheeling). If they're crunchy, replace.
The ceramics are a good upgrade, they stay smoother much longer even with abuse.
The internal bearings (top shaft, steering and diff) last a long time. The 5x10 wheel bearings are a big improvement over the 6x10's in the previous ride in durability due to being higher profile, but if you smack a wall pretty good they'll still get notchy.
Check them by taking them out, spinning on a pencil (with some pressure to simulate cornering, not just freewheeling). If they're crunchy, replace.
The ceramics are a good upgrade, they stay smoother much longer even with abuse.
Thanks, I have about 15 hours of actual runtime racing on an asphalt parking lot. Wasn't sure how often bearing wore out. Racing off road, I would replace about every 10-12 races. I am running this car more often with longer run times since we are racing near the house in a school parking lot. I've been running for 1 1/2 hours each time I go race since I'm getting 45min on a 5000mah battery. This car is a blast!
11-27-2012, 07:33 PM
#8137
Thanks,
Kane
11-28-2012, 12:40 AM
#8141
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-sakf18...=595_1419_1503
11-28-2012, 10:37 PM
#8142
Is anybody using the RSD6 conversion from Reflex Racing? Are you using the 2.0mm or the 2.5mm? Is it worth it? I love my TC6.1, but I do not like the steering servo setup. What are some other advantages? Does everything bolt up as nicely as it does to the stock chassis?
I'm also looking at some of the shock pistons they sell on there. Anybody using any of them? We are running foam tires on carpet in my club. Thanks for any input!
I'm also looking at some of the shock pistons they sell on there. Anybody using any of them? We are running foam tires on carpet in my club. Thanks for any input!
11-28-2012, 11:17 PM
#8143
I don't have the RSD6 chassis, but I can strongly recommend every shock tuning part Reflex offers. I for myself use the bladders, o-rings, pistons and springs. I use them for rubber and foam and it works great. The pistons give you a lot of abilities to try and find the perfect ones for your case!
If you only need more space on lower deck you can buy their new servo mount and drill+countersunk one hole to use it on your stock chassis. Or you go buy the RSDevo chassis for even more aftermarket opportunities.
If you only need more space on lower deck you can buy their new servo mount and drill+countersunk one hole to use it on your stock chassis. Or you go buy the RSDevo chassis for even more aftermarket opportunities.
11-28-2012, 11:57 PM
#8144
Tech Regular
I run the RSD. The normal version with some upgrades. I like the way the car transfers more speed into the corner than my TC6(.1). If you just don't like it, go for the shock upgrades RSD has (like wtcc says), they make your shocks buttersmooth.
Good luck.
Good luck.
11-29-2012, 07:53 AM
#8145
rear end
Hi guys, coming from a serpent 411 to the new worlds car, does any know why the rear chatters or "skips" around corners? med/high grip carpet? I've tried everything except diff oil. which is stock. i also have the dual cardan from rsd and the aluminum spool outdrives.
Ive tried:
every camber link potition/length.
2mm inside ball stud all around.
2mm outside rear ball stud.
roll centers -h,m,l
droop
shock position (upper)
everything is free and smooth. car only has one race day and one practice day on it. im using a handmedown r9 body for now. my mazdas will be at the hobby shop today. the car is literally within grams from tire to tire and front to back. ive also tried sweep 32's and jaco blues. both do it.
Ive tried:
every camber link potition/length.
2mm inside ball stud all around.
2mm outside rear ball stud.
roll centers -h,m,l
droop
shock position (upper)
everything is free and smooth. car only has one race day and one practice day on it. im using a handmedown r9 body for now. my mazdas will be at the hobby shop today. the car is literally within grams from tire to tire and front to back. ive also tried sweep 32's and jaco blues. both do it.