sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

I think I am missing something on the setup, because everyone is talking about so much steering and I have had none of that! I will give it a go little bit later today, but I have been having so little on-power steering in all of the setups.

The only cure I have found so far is gobs of toe-out (3º!).

But that is masking the problem. Everyone that pushes down on the front is amazed at how stiff it is. So now I am back to being close to box stock setup and 25F/35R for shock oil.

This is the most stable car through the bumpy stuff out there. It out-handles just about anything and does it with style. If I can get rid of the on-power push, it will be stellar.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

what vehicles have you driven before? a 2wd buggy will not have the onpower steering of a 4wd SCT. 2wd requires you to have a throttle finger, not trying to talk down to you, just trying to figure out if it's a vehicle setup problem or operator setup problem

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You have a problem then... my dex out of the box has a very very soft front end. If your front end is really stiff, and are running too much droop, you will have steering issues.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Here's a link on how to run 25deg of caster

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=4622

just cut down a zero deg toe-in insert to use as a caster insert

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

I know the difference between handling of 4wd vs 2wd. Have had B4 and 2 22's with no problem in the steering department.

I have adjusted droop and it has helped. It works OK, but I can't drive it like I was my 22, out of a corner. Hoping the lighter oil will tell me something good. Maybe I have a 22 driving style...

Look forward to a quick test today to see.

Ray Kindstrom

iTrader: (153)

LOL....sure it did! See you Saturday

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Better get ready to jump ship there Ray - this buggy is gooooooooooood. And we don't have much time on it yet, just wait til its dialed in and guys get used to it.

Ray Kindstrom

iTrader: (153)

Might be tough to trade blue for orange.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

What anti-squat block are you running, and how much front droop?

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

I am running the 3 & 3 block in the rear. Less would mean less front grip, so I am thinking of leaving that alone. (correct me if I am wrong here)

Front droop is confusing to measure - from where to where? On the setup sheet it looks like you should measure the visible shock piston length, but there are no setup sheets with the numbers in there. So If I am to run 78mm of droop, where do I measure that?

Right now, I have about 7mm of droop from ride height. Basically, when the car is settled and you lift the front, the arms droop about 7mm before hitting the stops. Before I was running about 12mm of droop. Testing at lunch today to see what worked.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

On power push can be a few things. The car has too much droop if you're not using the screws at all. It can also be hard to judge because of the swept arms.

Reduce front droop. Also don't be scared to add weight to the front. I added an oz behind the servo and it helped out huge. Also if your rear end is too soft this will transfer all of the weight to the rear under acceleration. Don't be afraid to go to a stiffer spring or stand up your rear shocks.

Toe is the wrong adjustment to get on power steering most of the time.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

I measured mine shock eye screw to shock eye screw like an 1/8 buggy. Here's my setup:

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

Thanks Randy - I will measure what I have and adjust from there.

Appreciate the help guys! Like I said, if this car turn as well as it handles, it will be stupid fast!

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Bad for good you mean? In all seriousness though, this thing has me thinking of getting a buggy. For anyone who knows me that's a heck of a statement...

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You are correct. 3 degrees of anti-squat will keep more pressure on the front tires under acceleration. You measure droop the way that I measure droop as well, which is how much the chassis rises before the tires lift the ground. I guess this stems from my onroad experience, which is how we all measure droop. Iv never measured eyelet-to-eyelet like Randy is showing here. However, it might be a good idea to start measuring it that way if everybody else is, so we can have some kind of consistency.

Randy, are you measuring from the very center of each eyelet?