Schumacher Corner
#2041
Tech Initiate
I have yet to run Sorex's. Do they have a compound like the TakeOffs? Also has anybody tried the new Orion tires?
Phatz
Phatz
#2042
Tech Initiate
Jonski,
Those cells do fit tight in the Mission. Did you sand the edges of the battery slots? That helps the cells to fit.
Phatz
Those cells do fit tight in the Mission. Did you sand the edges of the battery slots? That helps the cells to fit.
Phatz
#2043
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
jonski: I couldn't fit my 3000HV's in my Mission at all at first. The matched Integy cells came with an extra layer of shrink wrap on them. It just made it impossible to fit them in the car. I had to break down and remove the extra layer. I also added one thin metal washer under each post. After doing those things, the cells dropped right in with a perfect fit and perfect tension from the battery strap for all my Sanyo cells 2000-3000HV. Try doing these things before you start sanding on the chassis. It should work for you.
#2044
With no shrink wrap the Sanyo 3000HV are a perfect fit. I found I cracked the rear of the front right upper suspension arm. The camber turnbuckle is backed out a good way to give me -1/2 deg of camber and I don’t think it left enough in the arm to provide much strength (that or I hit the board hard?). Need to order spars. Is this a common problem? Does anyone use a longer turnbuckle to help resolve this?
#2045
Tech Initiate
Arms and cells
What I was saying is to do the same thing as pan cars. To sand or file the edges so the cells don't short out against the chassis. Not to much though those chassis get expensive 8). The washer works out great also I use it in my Cat 3000. Shcumacher has longer Titainium turnbuckles to help with that problem. Have your LHS call or call Adrian or Paul and ask for them.
Phatz
Phatz
Last edited by Phatz; 05-11-2002 at 11:18 PM.
#2046
Springs front versus rear
Since the Mission comes with 4 equal springs, I was wondering if it's a good rule of thumb to use the same springs front and rear?
How about the standard inserts, they seems very soft? I think HPI hard would be better for carpet?
How about the standard inserts, they seems very soft? I think HPI hard would be better for carpet?
#2047
Tech Initiate
Cole,
It really depends on the setup of the car and how it feels for you. I currently run RED springs all around which is the setup I use for carpet. As for insers ask the fast guys at your track what they are running. Echo makes a red insert which teamed up with some Pit tires makes a great combination. That is what we were running at the Turkey Shoot.
Phatz
It really depends on the setup of the car and how it feels for you. I currently run RED springs all around which is the setup I use for carpet. As for insers ask the fast guys at your track what they are running. Echo makes a red insert which teamed up with some Pit tires makes a great combination. That is what we were running at the Turkey Shoot.
Phatz
#2048
Originally posted by Phatz
It really depends on the setup of the car and how it feels for you.
It really depends on the setup of the car and how it feels for you.
On the HPI cars I'm used to, they usually drive better with a little harder springs up front, than in the rear. I've tried other combinations, but always goes back. Most HPI drivers do like this (at least on first and second generation cars).
#2049
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Damon: If you are using the inline hole on the hub (which you probably be using if you are not), it its possible to break the arm where the turnbuckle enters the arm (the arm cracks an lets the turnbuckle anle btowards the back of the car increasing the camber on that side of the car). The solution is to thread the turnbuckle further into the arm (and further out of the ball grippa) so more of the threads are in the arm. This will take care of the problem. At the same time, you should probably run closer to 1 to 1.5d camber in order to get flat tire wear. Hope that helps...
#2050
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Cole: Run whatever springs you need to run for optimum handling. If you prefer or need to run a stiffer spring in the front, then don't worry about what spring it is, use it. Currently I'm working on a setup with a diff (Reedy Race has a no one-way rule) and am running red in the back and blue in the front. My normal setup, however, is red all the way around. The only thing I try to avoid is running a spring thats is 10 pounds or more than the other, but don't take that as a rule either. Try everything and see what works for you at your track. Good luck...
#2051
Tech Initiate
Racer X
With the Blues in the front the turn in must be awsome. What weight oil are you running in the shocks? And are you running the new top plate?
Phatz
With the Blues in the front the turn in must be awsome. What weight oil are you running in the shocks? And are you running the new top plate?
Phatz
#2052
They call that A perfect fit!
#2054
Racer X: Other than using the inline hole on the plastic hubs I am running the Aluminum parts. But yes, the arm broke exactly as you described. I will try offsetting the turnbuckle to allow more insertion in the arm. Thanks
#2055
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Jonski: no problem. You'll be amazed at the fit once you remove the extra layer. Just make sure you don't cut the factory shrink wrap in the process. Before you cut make sure you only have the clear shrink wrap!
After doing that, if you find that the battery strap is kinda tight when you try to apply it, then add one thin metal washer under each post. You want the strap snug, but not flexing the chassis when you put the body clips in. Do this and you'll be all set for every cell on the market.
After doing that, if you find that the battery strap is kinda tight when you try to apply it, then add one thin metal washer under each post. You want the strap snug, but not flexing the chassis when you put the body clips in. Do this and you'll be all set for every cell on the market.
Last edited by Darkseid; 05-13-2002 at 07:42 AM.