Tamiya TRF417
#4472
#4473
Tech Master
You need to dremel the rear part to stop it rubbing. If its new stock it should be fine (look for one with TA06 on the card).
#4474
Tech Master
Aeration dampers are not available as a set (at least not yet, there is no such product or part# released) so you need to buy the parts separately if you want them. The only new parts though are the cylinders (#9804672) and (#9804671) Ball connector nuts.
The rest are old parts; i.e. from the std TRF dampers and TRF buggy dampers.
If you would want to convert std. TRF dampers you'd need:
51280 Cylinder caps
9804672 Cylinders
9804291 O-rings
9805779 2x5mm Cap screws
9804671 Ball connector nut (for mounting to tower, but the easy and already available part to use here is the #54205, which is the same part but with different coating)
That should be all that's different.
The rest are old parts; i.e. from the std TRF dampers and TRF buggy dampers.
If you would want to convert std. TRF dampers you'd need:
51280 Cylinder caps
9804672 Cylinders
9804291 O-rings
9805779 2x5mm Cap screws
9804671 Ball connector nut (for mounting to tower, but the easy and already available part to use here is the #54205, which is the same part but with different coating)
That should be all that's different.
#4475
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
here you go guys.. going to try something else to change pace:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...anium-etc.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...anium-etc.html
#4476
#4477
Tech Rookie
Cheers
#4478
Tech Master
Yes they should be good. I can't verify it but as ta06 pros, xv01's etc all have the same suspension and drive shafts now they should work. I used an older parts tree (had it in the pit box from my 416) recently and had to dremel it, but the ones that my mate bought to fit on his ta06 pro fitted fine on his car which has the same design and drive shafts.
#4479
Hi guys. I got a question about to get a trf 417X or a trf 417v5? For next year im being sponsered by Tamiya holland but im having a hard time wich is a better choice to get.
I can get a Trf 417X for around €170 cheaper then a trf 417v5 but i want to know is the new chassis a better car for 170 euro,s more or is 417X the better choice and drive that for a year and wait for maybe the trf 418?. I hope someone can give me a good answer.
thnx in advance
I can get a Trf 417X for around €170 cheaper then a trf 417v5 but i want to know is the new chassis a better car for 170 euro,s more or is 417X the better choice and drive that for a year and wait for maybe the trf 418?. I hope someone can give me a good answer.
thnx in advance
#4480
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Has anyone got some tips or a guide on building the aeration shocks?
Or more specifically where you fill up the shock body to and the steps after that.
Im having trouble getting all four shocks the same. How are they meant to feel? And with the negetive rebound, when you pull the rod all the way out, is it meant to be pulled all the way back in?
Or more specifically where you fill up the shock body to and the steps after that.
Im having trouble getting all four shocks the same. How are they meant to feel? And with the negetive rebound, when you pull the rod all the way out, is it meant to be pulled all the way back in?
#4481
Tech Master
Hi guys. I got a question about to get a trf 417X or a trf 417v5? For next year im being sponsered by Tamiya holland but im having a hard time wich is a better choice to get.
I can get a Trf 417X for around €170 cheaper then a trf 417v5 but i want to know is the new chassis a better car for 170 euro,s more or is 417X the better choice and drive that for a year and wait for maybe the trf 418?. I hope someone can give me a good answer.
thnx in advance
I can get a Trf 417X for around €170 cheaper then a trf 417v5 but i want to know is the new chassis a better car for 170 euro,s more or is 417X the better choice and drive that for a year and wait for maybe the trf 418?. I hope someone can give me a good answer.
thnx in advance
#4482
Tech Adept
will the lower and upper deck of the 417x fit the 417?
What would be the main difference of the stock 417 decks and the 417x's?
thanks!
What would be the main difference of the stock 417 decks and the 417x's?
thanks!
#4483
Thanks for that
#4484
Tech Master
#4485
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Has anyone got some tips or a guide on building the aeration shocks?
Or more specifically where you fill up the shock body to and the steps after that.
Im having trouble getting all four shocks the same. How are they meant to feel? And with the negetive rebound, when you pull the rod all the way out, is it meant to be pulled all the way back in?
Or more specifically where you fill up the shock body to and the steps after that.
Im having trouble getting all four shocks the same. How are they meant to feel? And with the negetive rebound, when you pull the rod all the way out, is it meant to be pulled all the way back in?
Basic steps:
1. Assemble the shocks
2. Fill the body with oil
3. Use a shock pump to get the air out
4. With the piston fully extended, fill the shock to the brim with oil - have it completely full, almost so it's spilling over the sides
5. With the bleeder screw removed, tighten the cap slowly. The bleeder hole with bubble a few times as you screw the cap down
6. Slowly push the piston fully into the body. Oil will spill out of the bleeder hole
7. Screw the bleeder screw in
The shocks should feel smooth and air free. When you pull the piston out it should suck back in to within 1mm of the body. You should be able to fully compress the shock without hydraulic lock at the top - if this happens you need to bleed the shock again.
I found my shocks got bit better with more use, the first couple times I built them I couldn't get them exact but now they are worn in they are much better.
Edit: Lee Martin's explanation of the same thing is about half way down this page http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html This is for the buggy shocks but it's all the same