robert maestrey

Hey Just want to give thanks to Jim(jag) and Eddie(shorts) for helping me out this weekend at the region 4 champs at ft.Myers...........Was a very fun weekend like always had a great time...The RRR ran wonderfully even though the track conditions were not prime...at times it was over 160 degrees track temp. the parm type m body had plenty of steering..I liked it personally... Got to give props to Jim he ran his best ever at Ft.Myers and this was the first time he used RRR there. Congratz On the 3rd place B-main finish that is Awesome.

Robert Maestrey

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

2006 Roar Rule Book
6.1.13 Cooling holes: Bodies for on-road fuel-powered cars (other than touring vehicle bodies)may have up to 1/3 of the windshield cut out. Bodies used on off-road fuel-powered cars may have up to 1/2 the windshield cut out. For touring vehicle windshields, one cooling opening is permitted, limited to a maximum of 60mm in any direction.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Sweet!

I can't remember the size at the moment, but I'll be sure to measure it when I get home and let you guys how big it is.

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Sweet! I didn't know they changed it to 60mm, I've always been doing 50mm.

Dom

robert maestrey

interesting James ive been doing 50 all this time...maybe thats why im leaning out

performula

iTrader: (4)

New kit, never run. I disconnected the sway bar and the shocks are matched. Investigation techniques aren't working on my end. The manual calls for 4mm droop, at least both sides will match.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hey guys
i just wanted some info about adjusting the front upstops and how/when to adjust those ear things on the front lower arms

do you disconnect the sway bar and adjust the upstop to zero on the droop gauge ? then what do you do with the ear things ?

thanks

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Ear things? Ear things?!

Dude! These things have part numbers.

Ah, sorry. Could you provide the part number please, I don't know what you're talking about.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

haha umm
they are round with a point
at the bottom of the front lower suspension arm

part number vz206

robert maestrey

Pretty sure he is talking about the ecentrics......right and left ones that attach to way bar.....

1-disconnect sway bar
2-make sure both ear things ecentrics are pointing in the same direction..they should be pointing towards the tires both exaclty the same..
3-set the droop accordingly with your preferd tools
4-then reconnect sway bars and recheck droop right and left should saty the same.
5-any change from left to right in droop after these steps cahnces are one of the sway bars must be bent...or your ecentrics are not set exactly the same might have to adjut them...
6-upstops are not used....

Hope this helps...

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

thanks robert
yep you got it spot on
its a brand new kit and my second rrr i just wanted to make sure this one was built right from the beginning

yep its down stop my mistake

jag

I'll let you off easy this time but don't let it happen again. If I catch you again your fine will be painting me a body.

Nice work on those bodies.

jag

Thanks Robert. You should have brought home the 1st place trophy for the A main. I can't believe your transmitter battery went dead... while leading the race.

A bit of free advice to those of you out there like me... not an expert driver. Find an expert driver then watch and listen. It really helps.

Thanks again Robert. What are we going to do for the summer?

bosfan

has anyone tried the k factory steel rear universals?
i am putting them on my wce now and noticed a lot of play in the hub,they are not fitting snug like the kit.
what i mean by play is my rear width can go from 200 to 210 because the universal slides back and forth in the hub.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

That's not good. My suggestion would be, pull one of them out, put the stock and the K Factory universal side-by-side and compare the two. What is difference?