HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#6587
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by nitroracer20
I had thethrottle trim too high on my xs3. I told you I missed somthing very stupid. I was messing with my clutch the whole time when It was just that.
Finally got to run my r40 around a little, shifts perfectly. Just need to get my gaskets and engine mount screws. I will then make the clutch engage earlier.
Thanks for everyones help.
I had thethrottle trim too high on my xs3. I told you I missed somthing very stupid. I was messing with my clutch the whole time when It was just that.
Finally got to run my r40 around a little, shifts perfectly. Just need to get my gaskets and engine mount screws. I will then make the clutch engage earlier.
Thanks for everyones help.
Glad you finally checked it.
#6588
yeah, Its funny. I thought I was too smart to have adjusted the trim too high. Live and learn
#6589
steering
Artificial-I: mine is stock and has zero slop in the steering..
I might take it apart in a little while and post a pic.. maybe it will help figure out whats up with yours..
I might take it apart in a little while and post a pic.. maybe it will help figure out whats up with yours..
#6590
AI, I will have to check my manual tonight and see what you are talking about. When I put my kit together I had to leaving one of the plastic bushings out because the front module top piece would not screw down all the way and there was terrible binding.
#6591
Bummed!
I totalled my car this weekend as I posted before. From quoting my broken parts the cost is nearly $100-$120. I feel like a chump.
The chassis is raised a tad up front (evenly across; odd, twist from the motion of the belts?): $35
Exhaust: $50
Upper and Lower A-arm: $8
Upper arm pin/rod: $5
Driveshaft: $14
Shock collar and spring $10
Rear upper link and ends: $5
Body with paint: $25
I'd hate to dip into my second kit because I'd like to sell it. Anyone ever make a huge mistake like that during their first weekend?
The chassis is raised a tad up front (evenly across; odd, twist from the motion of the belts?): $35
Exhaust: $50
Upper and Lower A-arm: $8
Upper arm pin/rod: $5
Driveshaft: $14
Shock collar and spring $10
Rear upper link and ends: $5
Body with paint: $25
I'd hate to dip into my second kit because I'd like to sell it. Anyone ever make a huge mistake like that during their first weekend?
#6592
bummer. I crashed my r40, but nothing broke except a cvd bone. I have never crashed my car that bad though.
Sorry to hear that
Sorry to hear that
#6593
to eliminate the slop just find a washer that's thick enough with the proper diameter to fit in there. something like one side of a thrust bearing will work great. what i did was i took one of the plastic camber spacers and cut off the tab. works good.
#6594
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
BASH A THON DAY!!
It was ON indeed. Two R40s, Rody V12 powered, one THS and other serpent pipe. One Rody 3 port std plug, other Rody 3 port turbo Roar legal. We went to Mercy college and hit the parking lots. I have a video of my R40 with rubber slicks on and yes rubbers DO SUCK ON THE R40!!!. I did 360s as fast as an 8th scale. It didnt accelerate as fast as foams also. However the stock rear foams did wear down a bit more than the fronts. Eh, it's kewl though. Gonna shave down the fronts anyway. Other than that, we had the drag race and surely my car took the lead and kept it. If he got a head start I basically stayed right with him and didnt loose pace. Door to door racing is basically how it was when I let him get a head start since his clutch engagement was late. Instead I'm sending him a setup sheet of my settings. I don't care if he thinks he will win, but I want him to get his ride setup as mine. Infact after letting him drive the car he was impressed. The car was VERY much predictable and..well just awesome. Kudos goes to me. All the days spending free time workin on the R40 pays off! Few shots. My friend has the video of everything else though. I was havin too much fun to take pics.
#6595
Re: Bummed!
Originally posted by performula
I totalled my car this weekend as I posted before. From quoting my broken parts the cost is nearly $100-$120. I feel like a chump.
The chassis is raised a tad up front (evenly across; odd, twist from the motion of the belts?): $35
Exhaust: $50
Upper and Lower A-arm: $8
Upper arm pin/rod: $5
Driveshaft: $14
Shock collar and spring $10
Rear upper link and ends: $5
Body with paint: $25
I'd hate to dip into my second kit because I'd like to sell it. Anyone ever make a huge mistake like that during their first weekend?
I totalled my car this weekend as I posted before. From quoting my broken parts the cost is nearly $100-$120. I feel like a chump.
The chassis is raised a tad up front (evenly across; odd, twist from the motion of the belts?): $35
Exhaust: $50
Upper and Lower A-arm: $8
Upper arm pin/rod: $5
Driveshaft: $14
Shock collar and spring $10
Rear upper link and ends: $5
Body with paint: $25
I'd hate to dip into my second kit because I'd like to sell it. Anyone ever make a huge mistake like that during their first weekend?
You can also try ording your parts overseas, getting the lightweight chassis. You might save some money that way.
#6597
Steering "slop"
I too, have some slop but it is mostly coming from all of the pivot balls at the tie-rod ends and the steering servo shaft. The small amount of play in each one really adds up in the total steering linkage. I was considering changing out the stock ball links for a better design - Any ideas?
Onnetz - I can't believe you have "zero" slop. Don't the pivot balls (tie rods) and steering servo link have some play? I am not calling you a liar- just a figure of speech more out of amazement.
Onnetz - I can't believe you have "zero" slop. Don't the pivot balls (tie rods) and steering servo link have some play? I am not calling you a liar- just a figure of speech more out of amazement.
#6598
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Page 24. Its how it looks on our kits.
So it looks like hpi has something weird on it as well. It doesnt make sense for there to be a gap on the one side. Im going to contact HPI about this and see what they say.
Page 24. Its how it looks on our kits.
So it looks like hpi has something weird on it as well. It doesnt make sense for there to be a gap on the one side. Im going to contact HPI about this and see what they say.
#6600
Re: Steering "slop"
Originally posted by JAG Racing
I too, have some slop but it is mostly coming from all of the pivot balls at the tie-rod ends and the steering servo shaft. The small amount of play in each one really adds up in the total steering linkage. I was considering changing out the stock ball links for a better design - Any ideas?
Onnetz - I can't believe you have "zero" slop. Don't the pivot balls (tie rods) and steering servo link have some play? I am not calling you a liar- just a figure of speech more out of amazement.
I too, have some slop but it is mostly coming from all of the pivot balls at the tie-rod ends and the steering servo shaft. The small amount of play in each one really adds up in the total steering linkage. I was considering changing out the stock ball links for a better design - Any ideas?
Onnetz - I can't believe you have "zero" slop. Don't the pivot balls (tie rods) and steering servo link have some play? I am not calling you a liar- just a figure of speech more out of amazement.
my kit is fairly new also, not much wear and tear on it yet..
EDIT: ok I took a ruler and measured the play at the tire.. it was just over 1/16".
Last edited by onnetz; 05-11-2005 at 07:36 PM.