HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
05-11-2005, 08:27 PM
#6601
Ok. Hmmm I must have a old kit. Cause there was a ton. First off when I first got the car it had a completely different steering setup.
Different ball cups and joints and crap, there was binding and notchiness. Was terrible. I went back to stock , fixed that.
I still noticed it was bad. Well I found 3 key areas that I gurantee everyone here has.
Well considering my kit is old, I might be unlucky. But this at least something to try and something to do once your car isnt as tight as it used to be.
It seems tranced is on the right / same track as me.
I had a plastic washer that fit right into the bulkhead with a hole perfect for the steering shaft. The steering arm is allowed to wobble up and down. Maybe my shaft is worn a bunch to allow play. But when you move your wheels fully to the left or right. And you wiggle it back and forth you should notice a pretty large amount of slop.
Especially on one side...not sure which it was but it made that play of the steering arm on the left that has the gap. Go up and down. Making for a lot of slop.
So I kept sanding down this piece till it was about as thick as a dime. You put that on there and then make sure your bulkhead will set flush without this thing pushing on it.
I believe it did add a little friction to the steering. But it tightened it up quite a bit. Ill edit in a picture tommorrow or something. Basically any washer will do, just needs to be the right size.
--
Heres the other two tips. Get some seal tape that you use for compressors and plumbing and stuff around the threads.
On the servo saver, the aluminum pipe that goes into the plastic arm at the bottom. Basically your first step in assembling the steering kit. Its a hex shape so it grips the steering arm underneath. When you goto assemble this / check this part. When you stick it in wiggle it around. It might have slop.
Both my stock plastic and new aluminum arm had it. I wrapped some seal tape around it and shoved it into the arm. TADA completely wiggle aka slop free. So quick and easy its almost a sin.
NEXT.
--
The bearings that sit in the steering brace. Give those a wiggle when you place them inside of the brace. Your probably going to notice some jiggling. Well, heres the great part. Time to bust out that seal tape again. Place that around the bearing very carefully. Try to make it go just around the outside only. Then place back into the brace, and there you go. Zero slop again.
--
After this its made my pretty pathetic sloppy car into a much better one. Much more solid. Its catching up to my racer2. I still plan on replacing the other ball cups that werent changed from before. Some simple seal tape and a washer and your car will have a lot less slop...
But it should be good. Ill post something once im all done so we can compare and im going to try to just go completely stock and see if that works.
Oh and yeah I believe the 3racing steering kit that I have is also causing trouble. I would stray from buying those kits until I have this fully figured out.
But the stock steering arm looks quite a bit different and seems just a bit smarter. But hey they flex pretty bad which is almost its own form of slop.
Ill keep you guys updated though as I continue to remove some more and I want to compare my car to some newer R40s so I can tell you how much slop a newer kit might have.
Different ball cups and joints and crap, there was binding and notchiness. Was terrible. I went back to stock , fixed that.
I still noticed it was bad. Well I found 3 key areas that I gurantee everyone here has.
Well considering my kit is old, I might be unlucky. But this at least something to try and something to do once your car isnt as tight as it used to be.
It seems tranced is on the right / same track as me.
I had a plastic washer that fit right into the bulkhead with a hole perfect for the steering shaft. The steering arm is allowed to wobble up and down. Maybe my shaft is worn a bunch to allow play. But when you move your wheels fully to the left or right. And you wiggle it back and forth you should notice a pretty large amount of slop.
Especially on one side...not sure which it was but it made that play of the steering arm on the left that has the gap. Go up and down. Making for a lot of slop.
So I kept sanding down this piece till it was about as thick as a dime. You put that on there and then make sure your bulkhead will set flush without this thing pushing on it.
I believe it did add a little friction to the steering. But it tightened it up quite a bit. Ill edit in a picture tommorrow or something. Basically any washer will do, just needs to be the right size.
--
Heres the other two tips. Get some seal tape that you use for compressors and plumbing and stuff around the threads.
On the servo saver, the aluminum pipe that goes into the plastic arm at the bottom. Basically your first step in assembling the steering kit. Its a hex shape so it grips the steering arm underneath. When you goto assemble this / check this part. When you stick it in wiggle it around. It might have slop.
Both my stock plastic and new aluminum arm had it. I wrapped some seal tape around it and shoved it into the arm. TADA completely wiggle aka slop free. So quick and easy its almost a sin.
NEXT.
--
The bearings that sit in the steering brace. Give those a wiggle when you place them inside of the brace. Your probably going to notice some jiggling. Well, heres the great part. Time to bust out that seal tape again. Place that around the bearing very carefully. Try to make it go just around the outside only. Then place back into the brace, and there you go. Zero slop again.
--
After this its made my pretty pathetic sloppy car into a much better one. Much more solid. Its catching up to my racer2. I still plan on replacing the other ball cups that werent changed from before. Some simple seal tape and a washer and your car will have a lot less slop...
But it should be good. Ill post something once im all done so we can compare and im going to try to just go completely stock and see if that works.
Oh and yeah I believe the 3racing steering kit that I have is also causing trouble. I would stray from buying those kits until I have this fully figured out.
But the stock steering arm looks quite a bit different and seems just a bit smarter. But hey they flex pretty bad which is almost its own form of slop.
Ill keep you guys updated though as I continue to remove some more and I want to compare my car to some newer R40s so I can tell you how much slop a newer kit might have.
Last edited by Artificial-I; 05-11-2005 at 08:35 PM.
05-11-2005, 08:46 PM
#6602
i think the parts you have slop in are just worn out. when i built my kit (fresh from the bags), the only slop I saw was in the place I had to put a washer on.
05-11-2005, 09:04 PM
#6603
Yeah while doing all this I couldnt help but think how some guy is assembling his kit brand new right now and there is absolutely zero slop.
While im sitting here for hours working at finding this and that and what can go here. I still want to check a new car.
While im sitting here for hours working at finding this and that and what can go here. I still want to check a new car.
05-12-2005, 03:31 AM
#6604
My slop is also like yours. Its not sloppy at one place its sloppy every where. After I get my piviot ball and bone Ill try to work on it.
05-12-2005, 04:15 AM
#6605
Re: Re: Bummed!
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Your chassis might actually be okay. I have 3 stock chassis and 2 of them show a slight upward bend in the front. I contacted HPI about returning them as defective and was told that the bend is a normal variance in the manufacturing of the chassis and that it straightens itself out when you put the car together. I tried installing the "bent" chassis and it did indeed straighten out. Now I'm only talking about a very small bend or warp about 1 1/2" from the very front of the chassis.
You can also try ording your parts overseas, getting the lightweight chassis. You might save some money that way.
Your chassis might actually be okay. I have 3 stock chassis and 2 of them show a slight upward bend in the front. I contacted HPI about returning them as defective and was told that the bend is a normal variance in the manufacturing of the chassis and that it straightens itself out when you put the car together. I tried installing the "bent" chassis and it did indeed straighten out. Now I'm only talking about a very small bend or warp about 1 1/2" from the very front of the chassis.
You can also try ording your parts overseas, getting the lightweight chassis. You might save some money that way.
Last edited by performula; 05-12-2005 at 04:27 AM.
05-12-2005, 09:02 AM
#6607
What are the smoothest and strongest shocks I can purchase for the R40?
I was thinking Tamiya TRFs or are they too small?
I was thinking Tamiya TRFs or are they too small?
05-12-2005, 09:06 AM
#6608
HARK- pass me that videoclip ok!!!
05-12-2005, 09:14 AM
#6609
Well the lola body is painted, but haven't tried it yet. This weekend is the 1/8 class and 200mm sedans. So far I have been kicking butt because of practice, not speed. I hope I do well. I will try my R-40 with the serpent impacts to see the timng because before I was doing better timming than them, lets see if they have practiced enough to better their times...
The WASP .12 turbo engine has been performing ok, although there are some really fast RB's out there and some mugen engines also...
The WASP .12 turbo engine has been performing ok, although there are some really fast RB's out there and some mugen engines also...
05-12-2005, 09:40 AM
#6610
R40
Hi guys,
I finally broken in my new O.S12TZ 5ports and ready to head the track this weekend! Before going to the track... I am going to have a little drag race with my brother's Siro EvoII 5ports/Kyosho V1RRR this afternoon and tomorrow with my co-worker's O.S 18CV/NTC3. Fun! [IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG]
I finally broken in my new O.S12TZ 5ports and ready to head the track this weekend! Before going to the track... I am going to have a little drag race with my brother's Siro EvoII 5ports/Kyosho V1RRR this afternoon and tomorrow with my co-worker's O.S 18CV/NTC3. Fun! [IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
05-12-2005, 11:21 AM
#6611
Good luck and go kick some V ONE RRR and NTC3's butt!!!
05-12-2005, 11:42 AM
#6612
Re: Re: Re: Bummed!
Originally posted by performula
Yes, it is only the front portion of the chassis and it is even from left to right and vice versa. The chassis sits maybe 1mm up at the front end at the most. I figured it was from the twisting of the belts. Have you had success ordering from overseas?
Yes, it is only the front portion of the chassis and it is even from left to right and vice versa. The chassis sits maybe 1mm up at the front end at the most. I figured it was from the twisting of the belts. Have you had success ordering from overseas?
05-12-2005, 11:45 AM
#6613
I always order overseas, either from towers or from rcmart and both have proved to be reliable and efficient...
05-12-2005, 12:02 PM
#6614
Originally posted by performula
What are the smoothest and strongest shocks I can purchase for the R40?
I was thinking Tamiya TRFs or are they too small?
What are the smoothest and strongest shocks I can purchase for the R40?
I was thinking Tamiya TRFs or are they too small?
05-12-2005, 12:05 PM
#6615
Originally posted by performula
What are the smoothest and strongest shocks I can purchase for the R40?
I was thinking Tamiya TRFs or are they too small?
What are the smoothest and strongest shocks I can purchase for the R40?
I was thinking Tamiya TRFs or are they too small?