Platinum Lipo
02-10-2006, 04:18 AM
#271
WorldCup2004, "I heard that Hotbodies, Losi and Tamiya are making chassis for the Team Orion Lipo".
I hope hotbodies includes the pro4 as well. I guess the manufacturers are watching the market right now, to jump this quickly on a realively new type of battery for R/C car use is extroidinary!
Right now all I do is tape my batt in my pro4, I'm going to probably get some type of plastic angle and try to make a tray with so I can use the batt strap.
I hope hotbodies includes the pro4 as well. I guess the manufacturers are watching the market right now, to jump this quickly on a realively new type of battery for R/C car use is extroidinary!
Right now all I do is tape my batt in my pro4, I'm going to probably get some type of plastic angle and try to make a tray with so I can use the batt strap.
02-10-2006, 06:43 AM
#272
3M has a special tape they call it reclosable fasteners (there are two types white and black - Target sells them both) I used it to hold the receiver and ESC in the car. (I had one of both and two cars so quick change was essential).
It looks like the one on this picture http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...666XIDc7rrrrQ-
I'm wondering if this could be used on LiPo batteries. One side to the chassis the other side to the battery... It is strong enough to hold the battery but the battery could be removed quickly...
sorry for my english
It looks like the one on this picture http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...666XIDc7rrrrQ-
I'm wondering if this could be used on LiPo batteries. One side to the chassis the other side to the battery... It is strong enough to hold the battery but the battery could be removed quickly...
sorry for my english
02-10-2006, 07:21 AM
#273
Your English is great, trust me! 
Much better than some native speakers...
Anyway, that looks like a variant on Velcro (which I thought was a 3M brand anyway, I could be wrong though). In a big high speed crash (think getting hit at the end of a straight as you go into the sweeper) I don't think that would keep your battery pack in. With the wires connected to the battery, in a really bad crash you'd probably pull out all the electronics in the car except the servo and motor!
Much better than some native speakers...Anyway, that looks like a variant on Velcro (which I thought was a 3M brand anyway, I could be wrong though). In a big high speed crash (think getting hit at the end of a straight as you go into the sweeper) I don't think that would keep your battery pack in. With the wires connected to the battery, in a really bad crash you'd probably pull out all the electronics in the car except the servo and motor!
02-10-2006, 08:54 AM
#274
I know they already changed some parts ! Maybe you have a new kit already made for Platinum Lipo ?
02-10-2006, 09:29 AM
#275
scorpion?
Hey guys,
I read through the entire thread and theirs not much on the scorpions. The system seems well designed for on and offroad. For $300.00 (stormer's price) you can be in the charger and two 3200's. Any input in this would be good!
Kingskid
"If hp is defined by how fast I hit the wall and torque by how much the wall moves, then I need more of both"
I read through the entire thread and theirs not much on the scorpions. The system seems well designed for on and offroad. For $300.00 (stormer's price) you can be in the charger and two 3200's. Any input in this would be good!
Kingskid
"If hp is defined by how fast I hit the wall and torque by how much the wall moves, then I need more of both"
02-10-2006, 11:32 AM
#276
Changes necessary for Xray T2
Originally Posted by pin
Have you put the platinum Li-po on Xray T2?
Because the right rear bulkhead is slot for Ni-Mh,
Do you have and suggestion?
Thanks
Because the right rear bulkhead is slot for Ni-Mh,
Do you have and suggestion?
Thanks
If you want to put the lipo's in an Xray T2 you will have to use your dremel on the bulkhead. You will need to make it almost entirely flat. Including the hole for the middle alu brace, its screw and the two screws holding the middle carbon section. Here you can see the result. It took me about a half an hour of work:
I also touched the upper brace where the hole is for inserting the positive battery plug:
But that is not much work
02-10-2006, 01:34 PM
#278
I just store it in my corally battery case with the rest of my batteries.
I don't think they are less safe than normal batteries, just as long as you charge them with a lipo charger and don't discharge them too low (I adjusted my speed controller to stop at 6.0 volts, so that's a margin of almost 1 volt if you take 2.5 volts per cell as the absolute minimum).
I don't think they are less safe than normal batteries, just as long as you charge them with a lipo charger and don't discharge them too low (I adjusted my speed controller to stop at 6.0 volts, so that's a margin of almost 1 volt if you take 2.5 volts per cell as the absolute minimum).
02-10-2006, 02:00 PM
#279
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
I just store it in my corally battery case with the rest of my batteries.
I don't think they are less safe than normal batteries, just as long as you charge them with a lipo charger and don't discharge them too low (I adjusted my speed controller to stop at 6.0 volts, so that's a margin of almost 1 volt if you take 2.5 volts per cell as the absolute minimum).
I don't think they are less safe than normal batteries, just as long as you charge them with a lipo charger and don't discharge them too low (I adjusted my speed controller to stop at 6.0 volts, so that's a margin of almost 1 volt if you take 2.5 volts per cell as the absolute minimum).
I noticed that Orion mentioned setting the speedcontrol that way. What brand of speedcontrol allows you to make that type of adjustment. I had never even heard of it until it was mentioned along with the LiPo stuff.
02-11-2006, 04:05 AM
#280
Some speedo have the possibility to adjust the minimum voltage. I think the Robitronic is doing it.
02-11-2006, 05:18 AM
#281
Haven't gotten my batteries yet but I'm going to try these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJDJ0&P=7
You can program the cutoff by running it with a multimeter and throwing a switch when it hits the voltage you want to cut off at. Otherwise it cuts off at 5.3V which is a bit low.
You can program the cutoff by running it with a multimeter and throwing a switch when it hits the voltage you want to cut off at. Otherwise it cuts off at 5.3V which is a bit low.
02-11-2006, 08:26 AM
#282
PHP Code:
Haven't gotten my batteries yet but I'm going to try these: [url]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXJDJ0&P=7[/url]
You can program the cutoff by running it with a multimeter and throwing a switch when it hits the voltage you want to cut off at. Otherwise it cuts off at 5.3V which is a bit low.
Does anyone have a pic of a low voltage device hooked up to their ESC like maybe a GTX
Rodney
02-11-2006, 11:50 AM
#283
My speed control is a Shulze Uforce 75.
It is for use with brushless and brushed motors and you can adjust almost everything by linking it to a computer and using a programm from Shulze.
It is for use with brushless and brushed motors and you can adjust almost everything by linking it to a computer and using a programm from Shulze.
02-11-2006, 02:37 PM
#284
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Rick
Can these things be ballanced? Do I have to take the cells from the case? I have an ICE charger what addtional gear would I need to balance? The tower Hobbies description says " balance/equalzation port".
Last edited by woodytx; 02-11-2006 at 07:17 PM. Reason: added info
02-12-2006, 01:29 AM
#285
On the back of the pack you have a 3rd hole with a 2mm tube. I called Team Orion and they told me that the best way is to charge fully each cell individually for balancing.
If you connect the positive (red) on the regular positive tube and the negative on the 2mm tube on the back, you will charge one cell only. Then by connecting the negative wire on the negative tube (black) and the positive on the 2mm center tube on the back you will fully charge the 2nd cell. By doing this you equalize the pack again. The charger need to be on one cell setting !
They also said it is not needed but can be done every 30 discharge to make sure the cells are again full together at 100%.
If you connect the positive (red) on the regular positive tube and the negative on the 2mm tube on the back, you will charge one cell only. Then by connecting the negative wire on the negative tube (black) and the positive on the 2mm center tube on the back you will fully charge the 2nd cell. By doing this you equalize the pack again. The charger need to be on one cell setting !
They also said it is not needed but can be done every 30 discharge to make sure the cells are again full together at 100%.