eZRUN brushless system
12-15-2009, 12:31 AM
#721
You mean your 50% ion EPA or your remote trigger? If your EPA was set to 140% then i would advise you to bring it down on to a 100. 140% on the trigger would cost your esc and motor lifetime to cut down. Yes it makes a difference of heat generated during full throttle since more combustion of punch is created from the throttle control. I only full throttle when i wanna pull away from my opponents and during long slides, other than that i only pull the trigger a little since im having a high torque FDR
12-15-2009, 01:09 AM
#722
You mean your 50% ion EPA or your remote trigger? If your EPA was set to 140% then i would advise you to bring it down on to a 100. 140% on the trigger would cost your esc and motor lifetime to cut down. Yes it makes a difference of heat generated during full throttle since more combustion of punch is created from the throttle control. I only full throttle when i wanna pull away from my opponents and during long slides, other than that i only pull the trigger a little since im having a high torque FDR
Other settings that I could do to keep my motor temp down is? excluding timing, as mine is at 0 now. Is that advisable?
12-15-2009, 01:53 AM
#723
YES! The EPA I mean. I will try to see if there's any difference on the heat generated with heat sink installed. I need to change my heat sink fan too, since my current fan came with the heat sink seems to be no used.
Other settings that I could do to keep my motor temp down is? excluding timing, as mine is at 0 now. Is that advisable?
Other settings that I could do to keep my motor temp down is? excluding timing, as mine is at 0 now. Is that advisable?
Does your chassis have a air pickup underneath the motor? If not, you can punch or cut some holes in the body and some holes out the rear to let air in...
Extrusions and fins as a heatsink for the motor is only effective if there is moving air. You can mount those fin with a fan on it for some forced air on the heatsink.
When fans are mounted on extrusion or fins, the direction of air should be towards the fins, you want the fan to blow into the fins, not pull air out of the fins.
12-15-2009, 03:38 AM
#724
Always give your EPA some space, thats why i keep mine to a 100 but i dont trigger it to the max unless im losing grip of my car when taking a corner too wide. When you get a fan for the heat sink, make sure its a strong one etc. 0.025v or was it 0.25v.. 0 timing is fine as you need accelaration of torque from your motor unless if you want it on high speed then you can play around with the timing.
YES! The EPA I mean. I will try to see if there's any difference on the heat generated with heat sink installed. I need to change my heat sink fan too, since my current fan came with the heat sink seems to be no used.
Other settings that I could do to keep my motor temp down is? excluding timing, as mine is at 0 now. Is that advisable?
Other settings that I could do to keep my motor temp down is? excluding timing, as mine is at 0 now. Is that advisable?
12-15-2009, 04:29 AM
#725
Lower your FDR a tad bit by lowering the pinion by a tooth or two... Don't lower it too much where you end up revving the motor all the time to go faster, excessive RPM can lead to heat also...
Does your chassis have a air pickup underneath the motor? If not, you can punch or cut some holes in the body and some holes out the rear to let air in...
Extrusions and fins as a heatsink for the motor is only effective if there is moving air. You can mount those fin with a fan on it for some forced air on the heatsink.
When fans are mounted on extrusion or fins, the direction of air should be towards the fins, you want the fan to blow into the fins, not pull air out of the fins.
Does your chassis have a air pickup underneath the motor? If not, you can punch or cut some holes in the body and some holes out the rear to let air in...
Extrusions and fins as a heatsink for the motor is only effective if there is moving air. You can mount those fin with a fan on it for some forced air on the heatsink.
When fans are mounted on extrusion or fins, the direction of air should be towards the fins, you want the fan to blow into the fins, not pull air out of the fins.
Yes. My chassis has it.
I will take note of the air direction and install correctly.
Always give your EPA some space, thats why i keep mine to a 100 but i dont trigger it to the max unless im losing grip of my car when taking a corner too wide. When you get a fan for the heat sink, make sure its a strong one etc. 0.025v or was it 0.25v.. 0 timing is fine as you need accelaration of torque from your motor unless if you want it on high speed then you can play around with the timing.
As of the fan, I will be changing to Yeah Racing tornado fan or something better. The current ones doesn't feel a thing.
12-18-2009, 05:08 PM
#726
Ok guys.
I still have no success in lowering down my motor temperature.
Currently at 38/104.
Tried 29/104, 31/104, 35/104 with no success.
Any help here?
I still have no success in lowering down my motor temperature.
Currently at 38/104.
Tried 29/104, 31/104, 35/104 with no success.
Any help here?
12-19-2009, 03:57 AM
#727
Sounds like you're over revving. The 9T comes with a 14mm(if I'm not wrong) rotor which is very torquey and loves heavier gearing. Try FDR of 4.5 +- a couple of pinions. Be sure to check temperature every minute when doing this.
12-19-2009, 04:34 AM
#729
So I assume I've to up my gearing to be ard 48/104 ?
12-19-2009, 09:41 AM
#731
12-21-2009, 12:30 AM
#732
12-21-2009, 12:50 AM
#733
It's getting hot probably from your application, drifting right?
I've used the same gear ratio, roughly high 11s on my DF-03MS buggy, which had a 4600Kv (540-sized) Castle.
I replaced the motor in that buggy with the same gearing, but used the 9T (380 rotor 540 sized) Hobbywing, and it ran much cooler than the 4600Kv Castle...
It's odd that yours is heating up so bad... Did you check the bearing to make sure it's not seized up and that the motor is not fighting the bearing to spin?
I've used the same gear ratio, roughly high 11s on my DF-03MS buggy, which had a 4600Kv (540-sized) Castle.
I replaced the motor in that buggy with the same gearing, but used the 9T (380 rotor 540 sized) Hobbywing, and it ran much cooler than the 4600Kv Castle...
It's odd that yours is heating up so bad... Did you check the bearing to make sure it's not seized up and that the motor is not fighting the bearing to spin?
12-21-2009, 07:01 AM
#734
I have lot's of questions
Hi I'm newbie in EP Touring. I just bought the Ezrun 5.5T BL ESC 60A Combo.
My car is TA-05 4WD Belt Driven. I'm focusing more on Touring but I also drift just for fun and very seldom. My Pinion gear is 22T Spur gear 70T. My Battery is Nosram 3300mah NIMH but I'm changing to Li-po in a few weeks. My shell is HPI Nissan 350Z Greddy.
Just want to ask some questions:
1) What's FDR?
2) What's the formula to get the gear ratio? In tamiya manual its [(Spur/Pinion)x2.25] but I compare to others looks like their formula is different.
3) How to get internal gear ratio?
4) What's Total Gear Ratio & Final Gear Ratio? (Why is there so many types of gear ratio)
5) What's the suggested Temperature for my Motor, ESC, & Battery so I will know if i'm overheating my electronics.
6)What's the suggested gear ratio if I want to get the maximum speed from my Brushless System? (Please state Pinion & Spur gear Teeth No.)
7)What's the suggested Li-po battery & specs to use with my BL System?
8) If I want to change gear ratio is it important to change both pinion & spur gear or I can just always stick to 1 pinion/spur and just always change the other to adjust.
Please can someone answer all the items
My car is TA-05 4WD Belt Driven. I'm focusing more on Touring but I also drift just for fun and very seldom. My Pinion gear is 22T Spur gear 70T. My Battery is Nosram 3300mah NIMH but I'm changing to Li-po in a few weeks. My shell is HPI Nissan 350Z Greddy.
Just want to ask some questions:
1) What's FDR?
2) What's the formula to get the gear ratio? In tamiya manual its [(Spur/Pinion)x2.25] but I compare to others looks like their formula is different.
3) How to get internal gear ratio?
4) What's Total Gear Ratio & Final Gear Ratio? (Why is there so many types of gear ratio)
5) What's the suggested Temperature for my Motor, ESC, & Battery so I will know if i'm overheating my electronics.
6)What's the suggested gear ratio if I want to get the maximum speed from my Brushless System? (Please state Pinion & Spur gear Teeth No.)
7)What's the suggested Li-po battery & specs to use with my BL System?
8) If I want to change gear ratio is it important to change both pinion & spur gear or I can just always stick to 1 pinion/spur and just always change the other to adjust.
Please can someone answer all the items
12-29-2009, 08:07 AM
#735
Hey guys Im running indoor, bout small/medium sized track. I have a 8.5t 60a ezrun combo and was going to run it in my sc-10. But I just bought a lazer too for indoor and was wondering if I should put the 8.5t in that or buy the 5.5t combo? If I put the 8.5t combo in the lazer what combo for the sc-10? 13.5? 9t? Will the 8.5t be fast enough in the lazer? I NEED HELP PLEASE