1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
#1876
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
I'll be putting together a new F103RM kit; is there something in particular that needs attention? never own a F1 car, so any tips on how to make the car handle good out of the box will be appreciated.
I think I saw different T-Bar stiffness for the F104, are there any for the F103?
Thanks
I think I saw different T-Bar stiffness for the F104, are there any for the F103?
Thanks
first mods: trf damper, friction plates and motor mount.
after that, make it lighter!
one part that made a HUGE difference in rear stability on my f103 was this part here:
its very stiff blue o ring and a stiff black one. my rear didnt twist as much and it gave the rear more progressive feeling.
#1877
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
I'll be putting together a new F103RM kit; is there something in particular that needs attention? never own a F1 car, so any tips on how to make the car handle good out of the box will be appreciated.
I think I saw different T-Bar stiffness for the F104, are there any for the F103?
Thanks
I think I saw different T-Bar stiffness for the F104, are there any for the F103?
Thanks
The only things you really need are the heatsink motor mount, some real turnbuckles for the steering, and the oil damper (shock). The rest is either dependent on the surface, or your personal preference.
#1878
here's my bumper/ diffuser ,you may notice a little extra rear grip with the diffuser i did
#1881
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
The RM will be fine since it's fiberglass, you'll be able to use the traction. The long fiberglass upper deck is something you want to look at if you feel like the steering is a little too dead. The pivotball suspension works well outdoors. The oring suspension works well too, but I have seen both work outdoors. Indoor, oring all the way. The Tamiya premount tires work, or a 25 shore for the rear and maybe 35 in front if you can get Zen tires or similar. Black or gold springs up front, with 20,000 on the king pins. Rear 25-30 in the shock, red spring or even lighter (the florescent minicar springs are lighter). 10,000 on the damper plate. White paragon on the tires, full rear, 1/4 front, cover the paragon with sunscreen when it soaks in (10 min).
#1882
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
RC F1 Flex T-Bar - F103 Chassis Item #53169 Soft tbar-you might have to look on ebay or an Asian shop.
The RM will be fine since it's fiberglass, you'll be able to use the traction. The long fiberglass upper deck is something you want to look at if you feel like the steering is a little too dead. The pivotball suspension works well outdoors. The oring suspension works well too, but I have seen both work outdoors. Indoor, oring all the way. The Tamiya premount tires work, or a 25 shore for the rear and maybe 35 in front if you can get Zen tires or similar. Black or gold springs up front, with 20,000 on the king pins. Rear 25-30 in the shock, red spring or even lighter (the florescent minicar springs are lighter). 10,000 on the damper plate. White paragon on the tires, full rear, 1/4 front, cover the paragon with sunscreen when it soaks in (10 min).
The RM will be fine since it's fiberglass, you'll be able to use the traction. The long fiberglass upper deck is something you want to look at if you feel like the steering is a little too dead. The pivotball suspension works well outdoors. The oring suspension works well too, but I have seen both work outdoors. Indoor, oring all the way. The Tamiya premount tires work, or a 25 shore for the rear and maybe 35 in front if you can get Zen tires or similar. Black or gold springs up front, with 20,000 on the king pins. Rear 25-30 in the shock, red spring or even lighter (the florescent minicar springs are lighter). 10,000 on the damper plate. White paragon on the tires, full rear, 1/4 front, cover the paragon with sunscreen when it soaks in (10 min).
Thanks... Looking forward to start racing this class; since F1 is new to me, I'm sure the time will fly while on the track testing.
Will post some videos as soon I hit te track with the car
#1884
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
thats a lot of wires! how is your other side balanced?
are you ruinning 21.5brushless?
I have been wondering of going for brushed or brushless... I am used to brushless, but I have heard the silvercans are actually an advantage, not only by weight, but also performance. Has anyone compared the two?
laptimes, weight, battery consuption, etc.
are you ruinning 21.5brushless?
I have been wondering of going for brushed or brushless... I am used to brushless, but I have heard the silvercans are actually an advantage, not only by weight, but also performance. Has anyone compared the two?
laptimes, weight, battery consuption, etc.
#1885
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
thats a lot of wires! how is your other side balanced?
are you ruinning 21.5brushless?
I have been wondering of going for brushed or brushless... I am used to brushless, but I have heard the silvercans are actually an advantage, not only by weight, but also performance. Has anyone compared the two?
laptimes, weight, battery consuption, etc.
are you ruinning 21.5brushless?
I have been wondering of going for brushed or brushless... I am used to brushless, but I have heard the silvercans are actually an advantage, not only by weight, but also performance. Has anyone compared the two?
laptimes, weight, battery consuption, etc.
We race 10 to 15 mins with lo grade lipos, and the last lap is as good as the first.
even 21.5 with no boost has more punch than silvercan.
Silvercan is no match.
#1889
Tech Adept
smracer31, I like your F104. Are those front suspension arms carbon fiber or is that a decal? They look cool!!
#1890
I've attached my just-built F104 Pro - I'll shorten the servo and ESC wires a little bit, yet. I'm guessing with the wires and the ESC, I might have to put half an ounce or so of lead on the other side to help balance it out.
Last edited by kdeselms; 09-29-2010 at 02:14 PM.