silvalis

iTrader: (29)

make sure you get the s limited version as the older s-spec kit doesn't have the dampers.

Dirt_McGirt

Awesome thanks for the help, think I'm going with the S-spec!

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

I would like to retain the stock parts for now so how would one shim this and resolve the slop? The slop appears to be between the ID of the bearing and the OD of the plastic bellcrank retainer that goes through the ID of the bearing. It seems like excessive tolerances. I've attached an image of what I'm referring to but I'm sure you already know. The play itself doesn't appear to be a vertical up/down play but I could certainly put shims atop the upper bearing to see if that helps.

Dave

Granpa

Frankly, I wouldn't waste any time doing that. Now this is just a personal feeling and others may disagree, but the built in slop will save the steering linkage a bit. I used to shim by putting thin shims above the bearings, but was tweaking the bell cranks more often than those who didn't. For some reason, the slop doesn't affect the steering nearly as much as a tweak in the steering linkage. Also, if you shim the slop out, it makes it even more important that the linkage is perfect.

Hint: if the car is fine on one run and goes "crazy" the next, you've tweaked one of the bellcranks. Nine times out of ten, it's the right one.

Granpa

Sorry, have to disagree with the proponents of the S spec. The Tamiya track is my home track and almost all have gone to a MWB or LWB car. The consensus there seems to be that the M03 is the better platform at this track.

Please note, my comments only are for the Tamiya track. I prefer the M05 MWB for most other venues, but the M03 is the weapon of choice for lower grip tracks.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Thanks. I'll l eave it as it is for now and see how it goes. I haven't driven it yet but I'm not used to this much steering play. What do you mena goes crazy?

Dave

alphaqgti

I am running a MWB config on my S-Spec - I just flipped the rear arms. You will not be able to run the LWB config using the S-Spec lower suspension holder, but the kit does come with the stock plastic piece if you choose to run the LWB (just not with the extra 1 degree of rear toe-in). Some people favor the 03 over the 05 over here as well. I had an 03-R too, I simply prefer the 05. In the hands of the right driver, both cars perform exceptionally well.

sosidge

Running toe-out on the front of the car will do wonders for the accuracy of the steering and the straight-line running. I'm currently at 1mm spacing on the steering links.

I still run the Tamiya plastic parts in the steering apart from the posts that the bearings run on - I have changed those for Tamiya's optional alloy ones. I'm not that happy about the fit between the cranks and the rack using the step screws, but my car runs well enough and I have yet to bend any of those parts.

gene1219

iTrader: (16)

the getting the whip ready for racing.

BJoe

Hey Guys, Just wanted to say hi and post up a few pics of my 6 year old M-03 with full bearings, a Castle Sidewinder/4600 combo on an Orion 4000mAh 2s LiPo, Tamiya TC oil filled shocks, Traxxas 2.4 Link radio and Futaba 3305 Servo, and M-05 C's and knuckles with Traxxas rod ends (with ANZA balls) , Kimbrough servo saver, and Associated Ti threaded rods. The wheels are still Tamiya, but the current tires and body are both HPI. It's been built as a basher, but may see track time at the HTU I work for this season.



BTW, the LED's are E-Flite, the buckets are RPM, and the paint is Pactra Galactic Purple 2 stage flip flop paint for the main color with Model Master AMC Sterling Silver lacquer (which is lexan compatable! ) for the rest.

And here's the M-05 C and Knuckle swap with Traxxas rod ends and Kimbourgh servo saver.






Steering seems way tighter this way and it will probably need 2.5° rear carriers if I put it on our track. As is it should be fantastic for gymkhana type driving

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

How do you mount the shocks with the flipped rear arms? Do you just mount the camber links on the back of the tower and put the shock tower in front of that?

alphaqgti

Rear shock tower mount goes in the furthest back holes, camber links go in the front side of the shock tower mount, and the camber links attach on the rear uprights on the back side.



EDIT: found some other pics where you might see how it is set up a little better...

Left - SWB, Center - MWB (arms in SWB position/suspension holder in LWB position), Right - MWB (arms in LWB position/suspension holder in SWB position)

BJoe

That is one neat looking little Bimmer Gene

alphaqgti

The third pic I just posted is what's sitting under that shell

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

Hmm... I thought you said you flipped the arms, not the suspension holder/block thing. I was thinking it would be setup like LWB, but with the suspension block still in the SWB position.

Yours looks setup as per the manual?