flat4

thanks for the idea on the cva shocks, the defiantly sound like they will do the trick

MatsNorway

Have anyone tried the Team Powers mini-lite motors? how are they compared to the Hobbywing?

Was thinking about getting a 9.5T

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

did you expand the wheel wells on the alfa? i like how low you got it, but i don't think i'd be able to get away with that for a TCS race

FNG RIDER

The Alfa is from my old M04 rwd and probably wouldn't be allowed for that reason. I'll use it for practice. I have a CRX body on order and will post up pics.

I did hack away the body, TCS allowed me to cut the wheel well before, but then it was only enough to clear the tires. Now its really noticeable.

I'll take the Alfa body to tech just for laughs!

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

They must allow some slack. Several bodies, including the original style Rover Mini won't fit 60d tires at all without some modification.

Granpa

Don't disagree with you that often, Jim. However, the Rover Mini Cooper body works with the 60D tires just fine. Gets a little close when using the 2 degree rear hubs, but this body was used for TCS racing for a long time. Don't see it much anymore since most guys run the mid or long WB cars now.

The body of choice for the MWB cars is the Swift and the best body for the LWB car is the BMW or the 2006 Cooper. The others just don't seem to work as well. You, of course, may find other bodies working better at certain venues, but so far have not run at any track where this was true.

And No, they don't allow much, if any body "butchering" at a TCS event.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Maybe I'm trying to mount them too low. I've always had to hack up the wheel wells to gain clearance. One of my fellow racers got a better idea. He used a heat gun to reshape the body subtly. Very cool work on his part and fit within rules as the body was cut along the proper lines, etc.

EDIT: Y'know what? I've just been looking through my photo collection and discovered that we're both kind of right, Bob. Tamiya seems to have made a few versions of the Rover Mini shell over the years and several of mine fit just fine without any tweaking. It appears that some versions were designed to work with 55D tires and some with 60D. I've got a really early version in a box around here someplace. I should have a look at it. I'm pretty sure the reason I never used it was because I couldn't make it fit.

Firefox

iTrader: (2)

The body set is Tamiya 51489

Tower Hobbies shows it as being available mid April.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXCBCZ&P=SM#

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

My new mini body:



My sister painted it for me with a matching TC for an event I have on the weekend. Its her first go airbrushing so I think it turned out pretty good.

Its a Colt New Mini, SWB.

On the rover mini 60D debate you guys are having, I found my tamiya mini difficult to fit the 60d sized tyres under, they rubbed front and rear.

scoop

You guys with the ezrun 13.5's fitted, do you have have any cutting out issues at full throttle up the straights? A mate is running this in his M03 with a lipo and getting exactly this. He doesnt have the punch or the timing cranked right up. I was thinking of fitting a power cap?

marcos graveyar

I think the Monte Carlo Rally Mini shell has smaller wheel wells as it is designed for the 55D tyre.

RedRover

I have noticed that the Tamiya CVA black shocks need some improvements:
1) The shafts are often dinged up and need smoothing (2-6 dings are typical and can be felt with your fingernail.) Use a hobby knife to "shave" the ding repeatedly until it is mostly gone, do not sand it or scrape with the blade vertical wrt the shaft, and
2) Assembly instructions have you insert the o-rings into the shock body and then push the shaft through. I do it the other way around, sliding the well oiled shaft and o-rings together and then sliding the pieces into the body. Less possibility of scratching the o-rings that way. Note the e-clip is already on the shaft.

Cheers

niznai

I don't think that is possible. To insert the shaft with the e-clip on you have to insert it from the top of the shock body, whilst the o-rings go from the bottom. And you need to have the piston on too.

It is true though that you can put the shaft through the body and then put the o-rings on the shaft (at the other end) and then slide them home. This is my preferred method.

StarrRacing

iTrader: (8)

I got this body when I bought my Used M05... don't know what car it is...

StarrRacing

iTrader: (8)

Another I got when I bought my used M05.... don't know what it is.... lol