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Old 04-04-2014, 12:22 AM
  #1636  
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fix-o-moll adhesive rubber band used to protect doors







strong/ easy to cut/ easy to stick/ easy to remove/ stays in place/ cheap

been using it for many years now
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:50 AM
  #1637  
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Originally Posted by ThePanda
there was a thread similar to this where somebody suggested a stick plastic sheet that you could get at a home improvement store, and in varying thicknesses. then it would just stick to the bottom of the chassis. since the chassis gets scratches anyways most people won't run a full chassis protector on ⅛ and treat the chassis as a disposable item after it has been worn enough.
+1, exactly!

Unless your running indoors on smooth damp clay.

DE Racing makes some sick skid plates though.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:36 AM
  #1638  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
+1, exactly!

Unless your running indoors on smooth damp clay.

DE Racing makes some sick skid plates though.
Not a pro racer, just a club racer. But just getting into the myriad of tuning my car.

I have this season skipped the use of skid plates. Some of the local pros don't use it, as they inflict on the ride height adjustment.

Why bother so much protect the underside of the chassis?

None of the real pros use it.
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:43 AM
  #1639  
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You lose down travel with skid plates and chassis protector don't last long enough to be worth the effort and they interfere with removing screws on the bottom of the chassis. I never use them..
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:08 AM
  #1640  
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Originally Posted by Salkin
Not a pro racer, just a club racer. But just getting into the myriad of tuning my car.

I have this season skipped the use of skid plates. Some of the local pros don't use it, as they inflict on the ride height adjustment.

Why bother so much protect the underside of the chassis?

None of the real pros use it.
Real pros get their chassis replaced for free.
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Old 04-04-2014, 10:04 AM
  #1641  
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Originally Posted by gangstafish
Real pros get their chassis replaced for free.
+1
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Old 04-04-2014, 10:19 AM
  #1642  
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Originally Posted by gangstafish
Real pros get their chassis replaced for free.
Agreed. But changing a chassisplate once a season or second season doesn't brake my wallet.

I prioritize performance over less scratches in my chassis.
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:52 PM
  #1643  
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Are the 3.0 shocks a straight bolt on affair to the 2.0 or is there more work and parts involved?

Thanks
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:05 PM
  #1644  
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The 3.0 shocks are longer than 2.0 shocks. They would require 3.0 towers to maintain the correct up travel and droop.
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:05 PM
  #1645  
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Originally Posted by Brushless Corey
Are the 3.0 shocks a straight bolt on affair to the 2.0 or is there more work and parts involved?

Thanks
3.0 shocks are longer. In addition to shocks and springs you'll need towers and either space out the upper shock standoff or use the longer ones for the 3.0
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:20 PM
  #1646  
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Is there a Losi 8ight T 3.0 E thread? Yesterday on impulse I bought one and converted it and built it at the track. Lost the TQ by 3 seconds and smashed everyone in the mains. The truggy was so much better than my dex408t. I noticed it can with the aluminum servo saver top half. Ironically, I qualified 2nd in e buggy and was cruising to finish second at least and my servo saver top half broke in my e buggy. I didn't even crash. The part # tlr244021 seems to be out of stock in almost every where. Is this a common part that needs upgrades?
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:22 PM
  #1647  
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Originally Posted by drepus
The 3.0 shocks are longer than 2.0 shocks. They would require 3.0 towers to maintain the correct up travel and droop.
Originally Posted by rcgod
3.0 shocks are longer. In addition to shocks and springs you'll need towers and either space out the upper shock standoff or use the longer ones for the 3.0
Thanks! So I basically need the shocks and the shock towers off the 3.0. D you guys think this is a cost effective upgrade for a 2.0?
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:41 PM
  #1648  
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Originally Posted by Brushless Corey
Thanks! So I basically need the shocks and the shock towers off the 3.0. D you guys think this is a cost effective upgrade for a 2.0?
The 3.0 arms are also different. I would highly recommend buying a 3.0 if possible. I have driven a 2.0 in the past an never really cared for it, but the 3.0 drives very different in the best way possible. I just cant imagine that changkng the shocks and tower wojld get you anywhere neer to the 3.0....
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:17 PM
  #1649  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
I noticed it can with the aluminum servo saver top half. Ironically, I qualified 2nd in e buggy and was cruising to finish second at least and my servo saver top half broke in my e buggy. I didn't even crash. The part # tlr244021 seems to be out of stock in almost every where. Is this a common part that needs upgrades?
I saw a few people recommend it on here when I bought mine so I got one. Seems to be a good upgrade to have for a little extra strength (especially rusty guys like me)..
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:18 PM
  #1650  
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Originally Posted by Got-R/C?
I saw a few people recommend it on here when I bought mine so I got one. Seems to be a good upgrade to have for a little extra strength (especially rusty guys like me)..
I guess so! Mine broke on a clean landing on the big triple. Oh well.... Wade said he broke one on his e buggy to. I wonder if I had my servo saver too tight since the manual doesn't tell you how much to tighten it?
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