Spec-R R1
#2851
Mine had the alloy fan mount. Given the choice I would buy it anyway, it just looks good.
On fan mounts, has anyone noticed that the fan mount on the S2 has changed? It looks like it can now mount a larger fan 40mm maybe?
On fan mounts, has anyone noticed that the fan mount on the S2 has changed? It looks like it can now mount a larger fan 40mm maybe?
#2852
Tech Addict
Plastic parts don't get others to go "oooow, look at all the shiny red aluminum... what kind of car is that?" when other racers look at your car.
#2853
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
heh... people only go oooh ah if i win.. if i lose, they wonder why i dont have an xray.. or serpent lol.
id say the aluminum mount would be a requirement. ive only used my stock s1 mount a few times but its pretty flimsy. i have fear of it tearing right off in an accident. doesnt secure the fans ive used that great either.
alum belt tension is kinda unnessisary though. I dont even run the plastic one. you should have your cams tight enough that they wont skip. if it feels bindy, make sure all the bulkheads are aligned properly and not pinching any bearings. thus, make sure your top deck is installed and secured properly before adjusting the belt tension.
With brushless i cant imagine belt friction being a significant issue.
id say the aluminum mount would be a requirement. ive only used my stock s1 mount a few times but its pretty flimsy. i have fear of it tearing right off in an accident. doesnt secure the fans ive used that great either.
alum belt tension is kinda unnessisary though. I dont even run the plastic one. you should have your cams tight enough that they wont skip. if it feels bindy, make sure all the bulkheads are aligned properly and not pinching any bearings. thus, make sure your top deck is installed and secured properly before adjusting the belt tension.
With brushless i cant imagine belt friction being a significant issue.
#2854
I see what you mean there valk with the tensioner. The belts should be tight enough to not flop around but loose enough to not cause drag
#2855
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
got my prospecs today.. hoooooly crap im in parts for a while. i actually have to pick and choose what goes into the spares pitbox and what has to stay at home lol. between that lot of stuff and my s1... i got parts lol.
probably prepare one for play this weekend. our last indoor race of the year.
then its outdoors.
probably prepare one for play this weekend. our last indoor race of the year.
then its outdoors.
#2856
MrJudd thanks for the sway bar info. Too bad they don't pre package a kit to make it easier I really am going nuts waiting for my S2. Everyday I have to stop myself from buying a random part I think I need before I even get my kit in hand.
#2857
Tech Addict
I have a system for that. I use my "Wish List" on the TQ RC site for that. I put everything I might need there. Then when I break a part or I need new wheels/tires that goes in the "Cart". Then I peruse the Wish List to round out my order to $100.
#2858
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Ps. Dunno if its mebtion you also need additional rod ebds for swaybars. Good time to get tamiya ones. Use tamiya for all steering links and upper arms, stock for swaybars.
I think the manual specifies how long to make all the rods and you will have to compensate the difference in the tamiya ends.
There is a table to set toes with the inserts but is there a relation table comparing it to trackwidths? Would be nice to leave the steering links alone and adjust toe with inserts only.
I think the manual specifies how long to make all the rods and you will have to compensate the difference in the tamiya ends.
There is a table to set toes with the inserts but is there a relation table comparing it to trackwidths? Would be nice to leave the steering links alone and adjust toe with inserts only.
#2859
Thanks for the correction Valk.
Crispy. I use the same method on a couple of sites with the wish list. Wish lists are the best invention in RC shopping.
Crispy. I use the same method on a couple of sites with the wish list. Wish lists are the best invention in RC shopping.
#2860
Ps. Dunno if its mebtion you also need additional rod ebds for swaybars. Good time to get tamiya ones. Use tamiya for all steering links and upper arms, stock for swaybars.
I think the manual specifies how long to make all the rods and you will have to compensate the difference in the tamiya ends.
There is a table to set toes with the inserts but is there a relation table comparing it to trackwidths? Would be nice to leave the steering links alone and adjust toe with inserts only.
I think the manual specifies how long to make all the rods and you will have to compensate the difference in the tamiya ends.
There is a table to set toes with the inserts but is there a relation table comparing it to trackwidths? Would be nice to leave the steering links alone and adjust toe with inserts only.
As for adjusting front toe only with inserts I'm not sure that would work, as adding toe-in will swing the wheel end forward, thus pulling on the steering links and removing toe-in. Vice versa for toe out. However, the change may not be so great as to be measurable, I've not done the geometry.
#2861
The same table for the toe does help with track widths. If you look at it, it shows how the same degree of toe can be found several different ways. Each different combination is going to be a different track width varying by half millimeter increments. Looking at the chart, it looks like for the rear the widest track width combos are on the left and get narrower as you go to the right. Being narrower also allows more toe options.
#2862
Well there you have it...
#2863
my r1 prospec is narrow with the stock toe block settings. Are you guys running it wider?
#2865
toe options are a litte beyond my comprehension. anyone able to explain this in plain english and give he benefits?