urban

Some time s it's great to sit down and re read the entire thread..... last time I was out I didn't do well at all. I'm going to rebuild shocks and reset ride hight and droop and order the sway bars
Oh ya I did switch to 48p for both my cars.
Hey Chuck I can't see your setup from your last link.

kooga

Where in Europe can you buy pinion gears that will be delivered within the week?

ScruffyRuss

iTrader: (1)

So after doing some major research and networking with my fellow racers, I think I found a suitable replacement diff. The ARC R10 diff has all the right numbers. I'm going to give it a try and I will let you know how it goes.

urban

What's wrong with the stock diff.
If you use green slime when building it?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

Tamiya diffs and xray diffs will also work, as this car is cloned off them. But I dont see a point in spending that kind of money on this car.

Anyways, hope you find what you are looking for. I have yet to experience a leaking issue with my 3racing diffs.

xjwolfpacker

iTrader: (35)

How do you guys build your diffs? Do you sand the faces of each half flat? Do you ream out the edges of the screw holes to ensure they are flat? Where does the green slime go if you use it?

I have had pretty terrible trouble with my Sakura Zero S diffs leaking. Both my front and rear diffs leak...I've taken them apart, used new gaskets, greased the gaskets, etc. Cant get them to not leak.

I just got a XI Sport kit in the mail though and want to build them right this time around!

greenpea76

iTrader: (28)

A small group build on four of these kits and no leaks at all using kit build. Just make sure to clean off any mold flash from mating surfaces. We used green slime on the main gear halves of one and nothing but kit build on the other three. Zero leakage either way. Yes, Sakura Xi sport..... we bought four kits to beat around at work. Very understated chassis for entry to club level. The chassis can match many other chassis in performance for what we do with them here without the cost.

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

No sanding needed. Remove any visiblie flash with a knife, fill will oil until the planetary cross looks like it is floating, then slime both sides of the gasket before screwing shut.

I personally don't use green slime, and prefer tamiya AW grease. I have found 200,000 diff grease to also work well as a "gasket sealant".

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

Nice work!

westy1969

Hello all,

I'm new to the XI Sport, and i was wondering what motor mount should fit the Xi Sport.

what I found is:

SAK-XS303/PK but is out of stock
the SAK-X24/PK but does it fit?
the SAK-X03/PK but does it fit?

perzeus

SAK-X24/PK has a pin on the bottom to key into the chassis, for which you don't have a hole on the XI sport chassis. And SAK-X03/PK has a completely different lay shaft mount. The closest would be SAK-U117/PK, but I doubt that will fit either. Why do you actually need one?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

Sak xs303 will bolt onto an xi sport. I did find that I was left with a different motor mounting position, which I did not like.

I found that the standard motor mount works perfectly fine and doesn't need to be changed.

todd_c

Just built this as my first kit. I like it so far. However, it pulls to the left under hard acceleration. I checked camber and toe and made some adjustments (doing the best with what I have since I don't have a setup station) so it's better (but still present). I also took weight measurements at each tire with a kitchen scale and had the other tires at the same level with some wood shims etc. It was a 1.5 oz heavier on the left rear so i added some counter weight and was a little better. I would hope the diff and bearings are fine since I just built it. Diff isn't leaking. Any ideas or is just too many things to answer? Thanks.
Todd.

perzeus

Just a couple tips that might help:
- if you have the stock plastic wheel hex adapters, check if one might be binding from over tightening the wheel nut. Remove the top arm link with the wheels attached and spin them. after some time with the chassis I think the aluminum hexes are the only upgrade really needed
- check if your chassis is not tweaked (twisted), it can happen very easily with this chassis, mine does tweak just by tightening the plastic lay shaft holders. You will need a flat surface and droop blocks. Put chassis on the blocks so there are no screws above the blocks. Push on chassis in all four corners, if it moves/rocks by even a tiny amount you have tweak. To get rid of it, loosen basically all the screws and then start tightening them and checking tweak after each group is tightened.
- check if you have equal downstops on both sides, the method in the manual where you measure the protruding screw is hopelessly inaccurate, and even a fraction of a milimeter difference on the screw will cause significant difference at the end of the arm
- on one of my fun cars I had an issue where the servo would move slightly to one side when pulling the throttle fully, might be worth checking as well

todd_c

Thanks for the tips, perzeus. I'll check it out.