32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Ninja - I think you could be right about steering throw.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

The kit Durango spur gear is made by Spec R

B.C.Ninja

No worries, its one thing I am a bit pedantic about these days, a very good driver over here posed a question too me one day about my car seeming loose in the rear, he asked " Is your car loose in the rear, or are you actually pushing at the start of the turn", what this made me realise was that yes I was pushing at the start of the turn and the reason it seemed that I was loose in the rear was that I all of a sudden I regained front grip once my speed had reduced and encountered snap over steer. Since then I try to set my car up to go as fast around the track as possible with the littlest amount of steering input, I have it there if I need it, but generally now my front wheels are steering me around the corner efficiently rather than spending most of their time scrubbing off speed. Personally I like the Rangos, I don't mind the slop in the cups, better than my TC6 that was bound up like a Japaneese Kinbaku, it drives well outa the box, and the inserts for toe etc are a good cheap option for setup changes, my only real gripe was with the diff crosspins needing sanded, I tend to drive around obstacles and not through them so haven't broken anything yet, lots of haters and fanboys out there, but to me, most TC's are much of a muchness, all have their pros and cons, and all require a little bit of personalisation to get them to 100%, to be honest the best kit that I have built to date was the Team Magic, all the rest including XRay and AE have all had little glitches in the build, so not all kits are perfect.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

I agree, but I think there is an issue with the steering set up on the Durango. The throw isn't as much as on my Spec R car. I placed them side by side and although the geometry is the same, the thickness of the Durango servo saver and the spacer on the ball joint make it 2.5mm further forward than on the Spec R. This is too far forward for the steering link to pull the steering mechanism as when this rotates, it moves behind the line of the servo linkage. I altered this, but still had to increase my Tx steering rate alot to get decent steering. I thought about changing to a Kimbrough servo saver as per my other cars, but my changes worked so I'm not going to mess anymore.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

I put the longer servo horn on my Durango, the one that was supplied in the kit, and took the short stubby servo saver off (also the one that came with the kit), and I could get a lot more steering throw out of the car. Went from about a maximum of 18degrees to about 25 degrees max. I then used the dual rate to scale down to the track conditions.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

I found the stock spur gear and measured that compared to the spur gear I had on the car. it is thinner. I machined it down and I believe my binding issues are gone. u could feel it catch when spinning the wheels by hand. can't feel that anymore. car feels very free. I'll try running it again Friday.

Wattsup23

iTrader: (29)

Putting my DETC410 Up For Sale..... Check it out here http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...uring-car.html

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

More misery last night. Both my son and I bent steering turnbuckles, he stripped a rear hub, and I stripped a steering block. The issue with the rear hub is that when you have the 3mm shim on the ball joint to raise it, it doesn't leave much of the thread of the 7mm ball joint left, causing it to pull out of the hub. I've replaved them with 10mm ones which are much better.

I've ordered Lunsford titanium turnbuckles for the steering, but am unhappy at having to buy turnbuckle upgrades for a top end car.

What is concerning is that I reverted back to my Spec R car, had a big hit and broke nothing. The car also drove really well.

B.C.Ninja

The Ballstud/Hub issue isn't really an issue and is present in close to every TC out there, all TC's that I have owned that setup their camber links like this are all in the same boat, you have to buy longer ones if you want to run extra shims under them, one way around it is to remove an inside shim rather than add an outside.

The Turnbuckle issue is due to them being aluminium, and TBH you must be having some pretty hard impacts to bend them, the only way to bend them would be a solid side impact directly to the top of the wheel, in which case upgrading to titanium will prevent the turnbuckle from bending but you may just transfer that force to another part of the car such as the hub, would you happen to know the type of impact that has bent yours?
The AE TC6 & 6.1 you had to buy shorter turnbuckles to be able to run the inside camber link holes, so yes, top end TC's you do need to buy replacement turnbuckles for.

I race mine on a large outdoor track, we have old steel plow discs for corner markers and pvc trunking connected together by bits of 4x2 for markers on the straights, I'm running the car in 13.5 Boosted and my other in 21.5 Boosted, in 13.5 my car is getting up to around the 100kph mark as the straight is quite long, if I hit anything at this speed regardless of car, I would break something, yet so far I haven't broken a thing on the Durango, why, because I tend not to outdrive my ability, keep the car within the track markers and steer clear of other cars. I'd suggest that if you are continually breaking parts from impacts, then I would start to look at preventing the impacts as this would seem to be the cause and not the car, if you don't hit anything you won't break anything ad you'll finish the race.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

If anyone is looking, I posted my DETC410 and all my parts for sale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...parts-lot.html

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

What you say makes sense but is not necessarily the case. My bent turnbuckle came after clipping an upright corner marker. We run on a small, tight indoor track, so speeds aren't really that high. I take all you say on board about breakages, but in two years of running the Spec R car, we've haven't had anything like this level of breakages. My 12 year old has ran the car at seven meetings, and has returned home 7 times with a broken car. I also return with breakages. That isn't good, and is unacceptable for a high end car. If we were having alot of high speed, high impact crashes, then I would agree with everything you have said, and I wouldn't complain, but we aren't.

Crowbo74

iTrader: (111)

The best advice I can give you is to switch back to the spec R. Every week you are on here complaining about your durango's. I think the spec R met your needs and you should go back to it. If you are not happy with the DETC410's post them for sell and move on. We all have different driving styles, abilities, and track conditions, and it sounds like yours are not compatible with what you are currently running. Stop pouring more money into the cars and move on.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but I've already bought cars which are now worthless due to the plummeting price. When I had it running well last week it was great. The issue I have is the strength of the car. I've bought Lunsford turnbuckles and added longer balljoints on the rear hubs. Hopefully, this will sort the main weaknesses. Another guy at our club has had similar issues and has overcome them, so hopefully we can now get on with racing these cars. I may also look at buying stronger bumpers. Xray ones have been suggested on this forum.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

I used the parma universal hard foam bumper on mine. I've only ran a couple of times with it, but haven't broke anything. you'll have to drill two holes and notch a couple spots, but u can cut it to any shape and width. I made mine to fit my body, so it's wider than the xray one. just an option for ya.

Hexonox

Has anyone triedusing the XRAY spring steel 3x26mm turnbuckles?; I know they are not as pretty as the gold aluminum ones but they way more robust. So I just finished my first practice session with this car and will say that I'm pleased with the overall results of the da, even after shattering one front a-arm and bending both front camber links. It's way better than my old Tamiya that detonates C-hubs every time it's put on a track!!!