Team Durango DETC410
#1096
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
I have to say just finished building a kit.
I'm impressed at how everything went together. Zero reaming, arms dropped under their own weight first time, shocks feel right, gear diff butter smooth.
Probably the best bang for the buck of all the current brands.
The only thing I would change are the ballcups and bumper....but I've done that on all my cars. Usually go for Top ends, etc...super beefy.
I'm impressed at how everything went together. Zero reaming, arms dropped under their own weight first time, shocks feel right, gear diff butter smooth.
Probably the best bang for the buck of all the current brands.
The only thing I would change are the ballcups and bumper....but I've done that on all my cars. Usually go for Top ends, etc...super beefy.
#1097
Tech Rookie
What ballcups and bumper you use?
#1098
Tech Adept
I'm thinking about picking 1 of these up...what's the pros & cons you guys have found out? I used to run TC back in its heyday...last car I had was an X-ray T2. Looks like spare parts are reasonable on tower...it also looks like the best bang for your buck...lmk what you guys think please!
#1101
Tech Initiate
Just bought this kit as my first serious touring car.
Got it from my usual online dealer for 220€ instead of 420€ usually.
So it is a real bargain.
It will replace my old cracking TF5-S (S might stand for "Scheap Splastic Sparts that Sbreak Scontinuously...) which has sustained a 9T abuse.
And it will join my wonderful bahsing toy aka my TLR 22 SCT (which was my first serious off roader..)
And, set aside, time has come to offer my 8 years old kid his first kit which will be a simple Tamiya buggy, as each first kit should be
Got it from my usual online dealer for 220€ instead of 420€ usually.
So it is a real bargain.
It will replace my old cracking TF5-S (S might stand for "Scheap Splastic Sparts that Sbreak Scontinuously...) which has sustained a 9T abuse.
And it will join my wonderful bahsing toy aka my TLR 22 SCT (which was my first serious off roader..)
And, set aside, time has come to offer my 8 years old kid his first kit which will be a simple Tamiya buggy, as each first kit should be
#1102
Tech Apprentice
Bought two cars here in the UK after three years off racing at a discounted price basically got two cars for the price of one.
Overall I was impressed with the build everything went together well driveshafts were a bit fidley but other than that really good.
Ran the cars with basic setup and were very easy to drive straight out of the box.
Think that every car has areas to work on and durango have good options such as steel out drives and the titanium camber links although I'd probably only run these indoors. I'm sure the durango designers are working on developing original parts to improve the car.
I use to run the top racing photon and then the ex, the durango is far far better quality no tweak at all a little bit of movement in plastics but I don't think that hurts I'd rather have it like that than over tight.
At a recent national I saw lots of drivers with yokomos TC but on the track I didn't think the yokomo was much better yes I'd say a bit better build quality on minimal parts but it should be for the price compared to durango.
Overall I was impressed with the build everything went together well driveshafts were a bit fidley but other than that really good.
Ran the cars with basic setup and were very easy to drive straight out of the box.
Think that every car has areas to work on and durango have good options such as steel out drives and the titanium camber links although I'd probably only run these indoors. I'm sure the durango designers are working on developing original parts to improve the car.
I use to run the top racing photon and then the ex, the durango is far far better quality no tweak at all a little bit of movement in plastics but I don't think that hurts I'd rather have it like that than over tight.
At a recent national I saw lots of drivers with yokomos TC but on the track I didn't think the yokomo was much better yes I'd say a bit better build quality on minimal parts but it should be for the price compared to durango.
#1103
Tech Addict
Hi guys,
Since i've seen your questioning about the ballcups around here, i think i could give you my tip on that. Use a plier and squeeze a bit the ballcup until you got something like this image. I'm pretty sure in the end you'll get almost zero slop and free movement.
Check the attached image.
Since i've seen your questioning about the ballcups around here, i think i could give you my tip on that. Use a plier and squeeze a bit the ballcup until you got something like this image. I'm pretty sure in the end you'll get almost zero slop and free movement.
Check the attached image.
#1104
Tech Addict
Well since i'm here here is another vital one. Not sure if it was shared here before. Learned this one from Ben Cosgrove.
Remove the step shaft screw (TD701016) from the layshaft and use it instead of the countersunk screw on the inside of the motor mount (see image attached). I use cone washers with countersunk screws to hold the motor mount together and some plastic spacers on the layshaft ones just to not crush the layshaft holders and create unwanted tweak to the chassi.
Remove the step shaft screw (TD701016) from the layshaft and use it instead of the countersunk screw on the inside of the motor mount (see image attached). I use cone washers with countersunk screws to hold the motor mount together and some plastic spacers on the layshaft ones just to not crush the layshaft holders and create unwanted tweak to the chassi.
#1106
Tech Initiate
I'm building my kit and I just can't figure out how to build the front driveshafts.
Attaching the dogbone to the collar with the pin through the bushing is OK.
But attaching the wheel-side axle to the collar seems merely impossible.
I can't have the pin all the way through all the bushing/axle/collar.
I think I have messed up applying too much force as now, the bushing doesn't rotate well in the wheel axle, despite the grease.
I think i'll have to order a new set of bushings / axles.
Do you guys know the best way to have theses shafts assembled ?
Thanx
Attaching the dogbone to the collar with the pin through the bushing is OK.
But attaching the wheel-side axle to the collar seems merely impossible.
I can't have the pin all the way through all the bushing/axle/collar.
I think I have messed up applying too much force as now, the bushing doesn't rotate well in the wheel axle, despite the grease.
I think i'll have to order a new set of bushings / axles.
Do you guys know the best way to have theses shafts assembled ?
Thanx
#1107
Tech Apprentice
I'm building my kit and I just can't figure out how to build the front driveshafts.
Attaching the dogbone to the collar with the pin through the bushing is OK.
But attaching the wheel-side axle to the collar seems merely impossible.
I can't have the pin all the way through all the bushing/axle/collar.
I think I have messed up applying too much force as now, the bushing doesn't rotate well in the wheel axle, despite the grease.
I think i'll have to order a new set of bushings / axles.
Do you guys know the best way to have theses shafts assembled ?
Thanx
Attaching the dogbone to the collar with the pin through the bushing is OK.
But attaching the wheel-side axle to the collar seems merely impossible.
I can't have the pin all the way through all the bushing/axle/collar.
I think I have messed up applying too much force as now, the bushing doesn't rotate well in the wheel axle, despite the grease.
I think i'll have to order a new set of bushings / axles.
Do you guys know the best way to have theses shafts assembled ?
Thanx
#1108
Tech Initiate
I read the whole topic and I might have found a way to build this damn CVD : the tiny screws inside the bushings need to be shortened in order to loosen them while the wheel axle is in place inside the collar.
I keep you in touch.
I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.
I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
I keep you in touch.
I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.
I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
#1109
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I read the whole topic and I might have found a way to build this damn CVD : the tiny screws inside the bushings need to be shortened in order to loosen them while the wheel axle is in place inside the collar.
I keep you in touch.
I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.
I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
I keep you in touch.
I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.
I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
#1110
Tech Apprentice
I read the whole topic and I might have found a way to build this damn CVD : the tiny screws inside the bushings need to be shortened in order to loosen them while the wheel axle is in place inside the collar.
I keep you in touch.
I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.
I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
I keep you in touch.
I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.
I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.