fighterrex

iTrader: (2)

This was my fix. Worked out well.

megastef

It worked perfectly.

That's the perfect fit, and I posted a comment about this on the youtube video of the DETC410 build.

I still need to buy replacement parts as my bushing is still tight in the wheel axle, but the other side will now be ok

I still need to learn to be patient and to ask BEFORE screwing up

fighterrex

iTrader: (2)

Where in the UK are you getting your kits? I got mine from MB Models, but now their site doesn't list anything Durango anymore.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

MB aren't stocking Durango anymore and are selling off all Durango parts.

I got sick of my car breaking so instead of selling the car whole I've broken it down to sell as parts. I still have some left if anyone is interested.

megastef

According to you, what are the main weaknesses of this car ?

B.C.Ninja

Glue the inserts into the bumper and the car is like any other, if you hit a wall at full tit in any car you'll break something, the Rango is no different, I have a swag of parts that I haven't touched and I've had some good tumbles. The car doesn't break by itself, but like any TC get yourself some arms, hubs, steering knuckles and maybe a set of belts, but the belts are pretty solid.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

I had the dcj joint split in half a couple of times, steering blocks stripping the threads, a rear hub shattered into pieces. The spool is also very fragile. All of these in a short space time meant I was getting more DNF than completing races. Was a very frustrating car. I currently run a Spec R S1 which costs a quarter of the Durango and in 2 years have had nothing like the repairs I had in 3 months with the Durango.

You need a Xray hard bumper as well to protect it.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

I've had two Durangos and haven't experienced any of this, except for the steering block threads. This is a week spot on the car, and actually many other cars.

Crowbo74

iTrader: (111)

I agree, as you know tbrymer I have 3 Durango's and have LOTs of races on all 3. Can count the number of DNFs on one hand. All cars have gear diffs, I think the stock spool is the weakest point. I have stripped a couple of parts, rear bearing carrier and bottom shock mounts, but nothing out of the ordinary. If you crash all cars break, the Durango is no different. If you look back through the thread toon has been very vocal about his love for the Spec-R and misfortune with the Durango, I think it's an above average car that has the best out of the box setup options tailored for your specific conditions.

B.C.Ninja

Seriously though, comparing a Spec R S1 to the Rango is like comparing a Lada to a Golf. The S1 is an entry level car that is made like a brick for people that spend more time against the boards than in the driving line, its like people complaining that the diffs are crap in their off roaders when they land a jump with their trigger finger pulled hard in lol how do you strip a thread in a steering block, maybe by over tightening your screw in the first place, it's like people that complain that the manual didn't tell them to use loctite on screws that go into alloy, seriously the Rango is like any other car I have had, I don't tend to crash it and I haven't broken anything yet, might be an indication there me thinks.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

You're wrong there Ninja, the Spec R S1 isn't an entry level car at all, its a budget version of the R1 with composite parts. I've gradually upgraded it so it's now virtually a R1, but with GRP chassis. The geometry is the same as all other touring xars, so not an entry level car at all. I've been racing for quite a few years, so am not exactly a beginner, or entry level driver.

The Durango was geared towards pro level drivers, and the company admitted that some of the parts needed strengthening when they started marketing it towards club racers, which is when the price of the car started to plummet.

The screws in the steering block haven't been overtightened, and is something we see quite a bit at our club. We race on a tight technical track with 13.5t motors so the cars have to overcome alot of quick direction changes and the forces that go with it.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

The part that I stripped was the plastic piece on the steering bellcrank, both right and left. It still works fine, but I think I must have over tightened it. Other than that I haven't broke anything on the car and our local track is a very tight track with huge dots that let you know when you make a mistake Car handles great and I actually broke less with the Durango than I did with my TC6.2.

Adam Howe

Hopefully durango will look at making some of the plastics stronger as some drivers have had issues I'm pretty sure there are strong drivers that are feeding back to them, be nice if a official voice could confirm from durango for you guys.

I think it's a brill car to drive and every car has it's weaknesses and I use to drive top racing ex comparing that to the durango the Durango is a different league, there are a few options like any other rc car that you could get to strengthen up areas e.g steel spool out drives titanium turnbuckles I'd definitely get these if I raced say more indoors than outdoors as the chance of a heavier impact is greater boards etc if you hit something hard enough with any top line rc car things will break and if not bend.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Has anyone found ball cups that fit better than the stock ones? I've heard the tamiya ones are still sloppy and you need to replace the balls too. Anyone confirm this?

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

I sanded down the stock balls and put associated ones on my car, since I couldn't get anyone to answer this question.