Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Thank you Jason, I get back to work last Tuesday and its 14-14-12-10 hour work days... I'm just starting to get caught up.....

Zerodefect

Does the DB12rr come with a pod thats balenced for brushless or brushed? If its balenced for brushless you just shim the brushed motor right?

I'm going to run brushed stock until I use up my old collection of motors then switch to 17.5 brushless.

Nice looking car.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The pod is designed to be balanced for brushless. You can run brushed motors also and IRS has a motor plate shim for using brushed motors.

Brushless and brushed motors fit into the pod with ease and with no disassembly. If your not carful, either motor will fall out of the pod.

Thanks for the kind words about our car. We really are proud of it.

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

You got mail.....

Zerodefect

Thanks thats all I needed. I just found the info for the rr. Looks like you fixed everything on the r car. I was looking at simple t-bar cars to jump into 12th scale with, but selecting t-bars doesn't seem simple at all. I like the ability the 12rr has to adjust roll and bump independantly and still roll like a t-bar car. Nice servo mount slots to, I stink at drilling servo mount holes.

The batteries look like a tight fit. I might just make the packs with a wire in the middle like a saddle pack to get them in and out. Someone recommended I get 2-3 packs so I can get enough track time.

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

You would be the first person I know of that would put a wire in the middle..... Ther are about 15-20 BMI racers in the DC area and we all use the straight 4 cell assemby....

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Its not as tight as it looks. This is the most adjustable 1/12th car on the market. With other cars you will need to change out springs and T plates to adjust spring tension. Eache flex plate has 6 different spring rate options with no changed parts. You will find it to also be the most durable and tweak free also. If you need any help just let me know.

avs

iTrader: (2)

the outside arm clears but the inside arm catches the head of the upper pin. if i raise the servo to the top of the mount then i just need to raise the ball on the steering arm to reduce bump steer? or do you run it like this? here is what i was describing.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

That is more than enogh steering throw. If you want more you can use the rear holes in the servo mount where it mounts to the chassis and run the ballstuds on the back of the servo saver. This will make the turnbuckles dead straight when looking down from the top of the car.

avs

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks i will run it as is.

moving on i have a couple more (hopefully last) assembly questions.

1)
the instructions indicate that setting the 'overall shock length' to 66mm should provide 1.5mm droop. if i install the front shock support 1 hole fwd from the most aft position (see pic below) then i need to make the shock length 69mm (center to center of ball cups) to get 0.0 droop.

if i move the fwd shock support to most aft location then i get shock length to droop setttings more like the instrctions but then it looks like there is a battery clearance problem.

so is 69mm the right length?(use a longer ball cup) or should i raise (shim) the ball stud on the front mount?

2)
also regarding battery packs, it looks like the battery packs are one piece, (ie not saddle packs with a center jumper wire.

if so, then is it std practice to remove the shock to get batteries in and out?



thanks again for your patience and attention.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

the 66mm setting is for the original shock. you are running the new silva bladder shock which is longer. so basically wherever hole you chose according to your setup you will just need to adjust the ball cups on the shock to get 1.5mm of droop. running the shock in the hole farthest back will give you the most steering.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

and yes we always pop off the shock to remove the battery. just need to remove it on the top plate side

avs

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks, i will do that.

so you don't fiddle the front mount height to tune the shock just the fore aft position?

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Care to expand on that? I can think of 4, but 6?

DK

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

ok. sorry. yeah for high bite carpet we run a medium height ballstud(black) and 2mm shims under antenna mount. this is the same as running the tall ball stud except the tall ball stud bends like a prezel the shims under the mount is a jason schreffler trick. the higher the shock the more entry steering i believe