3LikesTamiya TRF415
01-18-2005, 12:34 AM
#6571
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Yes, they suck, lol.
Yes, they suck, lol.
01-18-2005, 01:53 AM
#6572
Originally posted by Besercoe
Yes the wear on the outdrives is atrocious, i added Xray blades to my car recently and so far things have been going well. You need to dremel the diff slot wider to allow for the width of the blade, a flat cutting disk did this easily just go slow until thet are wide enough, the xray blade need a little bit of modification as well as they are "Taller" than the tamiya driveshafts, put them on the dogbone, squeeze the ends with a pair of pliers, and hit the connecting piece of the blade with a flame from a lighter, this will shape the blade so that it fits snugly.
so far zero wear on the outdrives or the blade.
Yes the wear on the outdrives is atrocious, i added Xray blades to my car recently and so far things have been going well. You need to dremel the diff slot wider to allow for the width of the blade, a flat cutting disk did this easily just go slow until thet are wide enough, the xray blade need a little bit of modification as well as they are "Taller" than the tamiya driveshafts, put them on the dogbone, squeeze the ends with a pair of pliers, and hit the connecting piece of the blade with a flame from a lighter, this will shape the blade so that it fits snugly.
so far zero wear on the outdrives or the blade.
01-18-2005, 03:03 AM
#6574
Yes the outdrives need to dremel as Besercoe wrote.
But the Corally blades seem to be perfect for the Tamiya dogbones at least work the best from all blades available.
I was told this from Jürgen, the guy who makes the aluminium diffs for the 415. I also have the parts here but had no chance to check since now.
But the Corally blades seem to be perfect for the Tamiya dogbones at least work the best from all blades available.
I was told this from Jürgen, the guy who makes the aluminium diffs for the 415. I also have the parts here but had no chance to check since now.
01-18-2005, 04:42 AM
#6575
Originally posted by Dragonfire
I might try those corally blades, keep the evil x-ray parts off my tamiya.
Did they fit the dogbone and the outdrive ok? I would figure that the outdrive requires mods.
I might try those corally blades, keep the evil x-ray parts off my tamiya.
Did they fit the dogbone and the outdrive ok? I would figure that the outdrive requires mods.
01-18-2005, 04:52 AM
#6576
Yes you really have to use other brands parts sometimes.
I´m using the Xray battery strap also.
I´m using the Xray battery strap also.
01-18-2005, 07:11 AM
#6579
Originally posted by V12
Yes you really have to use other brands parts sometimes.
I´m using the Xray battery strap also.
Yes you really have to use other brands parts sometimes.
I´m using the Xray battery strap also.
man, thats ugly!!!
01-18-2005, 08:10 AM
#6580
V12, since you have some contacts with Marc, do you think you could get him to give us his exact setup off the worlds ?
We already know that he used HPi silver springs, Alex Racing rll bars, pro4 rear hubs, but what we'd really like to know was where he used the new blocks. I saw on his car there's a flipped block on the front, would also be interesting to know what block that was and how many spacers he used.
We already know that he used HPi silver springs, Alex Racing rll bars, pro4 rear hubs, but what we'd really like to know was where he used the new blocks. I saw on his car there's a flipped block on the front, would also be interesting to know what block that was and how many spacers he used.
01-18-2005, 08:32 AM
#6581
and his DHI setup? 
01-18-2005, 08:39 AM
#6582
Originally posted by jeffreylin
That being the case, did you switch back to the stock black one? Or do you just keep replacing them?
That being the case, did you switch back to the stock black one? Or do you just keep replacing them?
01-18-2005, 08:45 AM
#6583
Ive gotta get a set of the HPI silver springs, if they are right between yellow and blue, that would be perfect.
From what I've found at SoCal, yellow is very drivable, but not as fast as it can be. Blue makes the car very loose and hard to drive, but when done right it's extremely fast. Hopefully the silver will make the car a little loose so the back end rotates easilly, but a little easier to drive than a Tamiya blue spring.
From what I've found at SoCal, yellow is very drivable, but not as fast as it can be. Blue makes the car very loose and hard to drive, but when done right it's extremely fast. Hopefully the silver will make the car a little loose so the back end rotates easilly, but a little easier to drive than a Tamiya blue spring.
01-18-2005, 08:45 AM
#6584
Randy, how many days of practice and racing have you put them through? From previous experience, the delrin outdrives get notchy quick. I still have the same black outdrives in my car from the Roar Nats...I also have the same black ones in my test car. Once I run out of black ones...I may just try the delrin ones, but I have a feeling that I'd go back to the black ones...they hide dirt REALLY well 
01-18-2005, 09:01 AM
#6585
Surprizingly the white ones dont get very dirty at SoCal, they stay pretty white 
I'm only running mod, but they are basically good for 1 raceday before you have a ton of slop and a nice notch.
I've got a lot of new black outdrives, so I'll just mix and match until I find a set that seems really smooth, but then again, it could have just been 1 bad outdrive that I got origionally that wouldnt run smooth.
I'm only running mod, but they are basically good for 1 raceday before you have a ton of slop and a nice notch.I've got a lot of new black outdrives, so I'll just mix and match until I find a set that seems really smooth, but then again, it could have just been 1 bad outdrive that I got origionally that wouldnt run smooth.