Howler

I've got a friend of mine who is currently working on milling an aluminum piece for the inner core of the damper. If it works out, I'll post a pic. I'm sure that it won't be as much as tamiya wants for it.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

The square case you won't be able to slot in, you'll have to remove the top deck, and then put the pack into the car. Will also need to mod the wings as well (remove the lower C-loop).

HiH
Ed

ioyasm

if your on carpet crazy glue very outside edge of front tire then just put tire compound on inner half and full rears try that if rolling do less on front tires i run the option hard front and soft rears

durtbag

I had to file down the battery retainer clip thingie to make the rounded style batteries fit. See pic.

R-Sector

iTrader: (1)

This may helphttp://rsector.com/index_eproduct_vi...?products_id=2

rays_tt

iTrader: (26)

thx durtbag, TryHard & R-Sector for the tips

This one shouldn't have any issues fitting without modifications should it? as its dimensions are almost identical to a stick pack?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

That the IP is to big i can understand, but the 3200MAH one won't fit??
I drove the F104 with the Zippy Flightmax 4000MAH hardcase in it without any problems and those are square.
Not like the 3200MAH your trying to fit.

regards Roy

FST4RD

I run that exact IP battery in my F104pro. Fits well...
If your running the factory plastic part at the back of the main chassis you need to file a small back on the inside of both sides to make it fit. If Your running the alloy one (I am) no filing is needed.
The 2 side bits that pivot (the plastic bits that you mount the ESC and receiver on) need to be filed on the inside to allow the battery to fit between them, no biggy though.
If your running the factory plastic battery holder, stop thing you need to file some off to fit it properly, although again with the alloy one you don't need to.
If your running a split top deck running the wire out the top is fine, no issues. If your running the factory top deck you just need to file a small amount off each side just enough to allow the wires to fit nicely.

Using that battery is good as I found with the side exit wire batteries foul on the body and you have to stretch it on, to exiting ones are much better!

Hope this all makes sense!

Shameless121

iTrader: (5)

Can't wait to race my F104 pro again I'm hooked. Need to work on my setup a little bit and I can gear it up a lot more. So awesome to drive with the new tekin rs an tekin redline motor!

freakyfreakyflo

i have been told that the 104 and x1 have been discountinue? is this true and do tamiya have new cars to come out?

Taman

iTrader: (67)

I've heard that they have both been discontinued. Tamiya have just released the 84262 F104W GP Edition (w/Body & F103 front end). You can still buy the F104 and F104X on Ebay/ Banzai Hobby etc.

In ref to the F104X roll damper - apparently the 54342 RM-01 Aluminum Roll Damper Set fits ($11.10 + postage from Stellamodels.net)

rays_tt

iTrader: (26)

thx for the tips guys, managed to get my 3200 to fit nicely

SquirrelCZE

Quick report from our local race:

-plastic Diff is completely useless.... *pick your favorite metal* do much better work
- wider front axle is perfect thing! Without it a lost a round or two per ride (+-40 rounds)
- need to improve something .... first rider got 44 rounds.. (republic champion), second one was his daughter (junior republic champion) with 43, and after that there were me and another five riders in same round - 41, and when someone crashed, I have only chance to catch up others - they will crash too, almost no chance to catch up someone "naturally" after crash

but on the other hand, it was fun!

ChadRacing

iTrader: (3)

does any company make and t-plates out of spring steel? Im tired of breaking normal t-plates. I just dont have the option of getting the F1R yet

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

If your breaking the high-traction t-bar (with the cut-out) I can strongly recomend switching it out for a 3racing 1.3mm T-bar... doesn't have a cut-out, and is just as flexible.
I found the cut-out on the tamiya t-bars to be a real weak point, just isn't enough material. On the other t-bars, it's the screw holes elongating that kill them..

HiH
Ed