Serpent 733 1/10 200mm touring
#4021
Ok Thanks...
#4023
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
I trust you are correct. But to be a forward minded company. You always have a prototype in your closet. The question is... When will it become a concept for production. I'm just as anxious as the next guy to see what and when Serpent will unveil a new 1/10 scale sedan. Only time will tell
Pass you soon...
Pass you soon...
#4026
Just ran at the Victorian Onroad Champs over the weekend with the TE
Car was handling great but a couple of trans probs reared their head
Problem 1: Has anyone else had trouble with the SL6 2speed bouncing between gears under hard acceleration after it's shifted when there's a lot of load on the trans?
Problem 2: Stripped 1st gear spur about 15mins into my Semi but have never stripped an SL6 spur ever before then? It was about 40 degrees C and I'm wondering if the heat and the longer race caused the spur to overheat. The teeth look kinda melted. Not your normal sheer marks
Car was handling great but a couple of trans probs reared their head
Problem 1: Has anyone else had trouble with the SL6 2speed bouncing between gears under hard acceleration after it's shifted when there's a lot of load on the trans?
Problem 2: Stripped 1st gear spur about 15mins into my Semi but have never stripped an SL6 spur ever before then? It was about 40 degrees C and I'm wondering if the heat and the longer race caused the spur to overheat. The teeth look kinda melted. Not your normal sheer marks
#4027
Hi Mate,
I have had the sl6 trans issue and i have finnaly resolved it you need to look at how the gears are wearing.
After looking at mine the gears were wearing on the non drive side so put it simple it was stripping when 2nd gear kicked in and slapped 1st.
Problem was the one way heats up and starts to grab so when 2nd gear kicked it is was stressing the plastic on first gear.
Resolve new one way and new lay shaft ( or just clean the layshaft with the wire brush on the bench grinder i did this worked )
i now don't oil the one way but i do clean the one way after every run i mean every 5min qual i clean the one way just with a clean rag and a tool to run on the one way internals.
Every 30min final new gears and new pinions every 2 or 3 race meetings to make sure i finish.
This has resolved my problems completely on the stripping gears.
The other problem you are saying with the gearbox jumping between the gears-
The 2 speed clutch material is not the best if you go for a run even 5min qual and then pull apart the gearbox grab the metal centre that the shoes sit on and turn the shoes there is alot of play there.
OH i hear you say tighten the grub screws and yes the play is gone no prob you are correct go for a run first 5-10 laps gear box is fantastic then back to jumping gears again.
Check the slop in the gearbox clutch shoes again the play is back the grub screws come loose because of the material is so soft.
Resolve super glue the grub screws and find a slightly bigger grub screw but you will need to clean up the top of the clutch shoe after you insert the bigger grub screw ( just with a hobby knife works fine)
I hope this helps any thing else just ask ill help the best i can these 2 issues i have been through already so i feel im very intimate with my 733 SL6 gearbox now lol
I have had the sl6 trans issue and i have finnaly resolved it you need to look at how the gears are wearing.
After looking at mine the gears were wearing on the non drive side so put it simple it was stripping when 2nd gear kicked in and slapped 1st.
Problem was the one way heats up and starts to grab so when 2nd gear kicked it is was stressing the plastic on first gear.
Resolve new one way and new lay shaft ( or just clean the layshaft with the wire brush on the bench grinder i did this worked )
i now don't oil the one way but i do clean the one way after every run i mean every 5min qual i clean the one way just with a clean rag and a tool to run on the one way internals.
Every 30min final new gears and new pinions every 2 or 3 race meetings to make sure i finish.
This has resolved my problems completely on the stripping gears.
The other problem you are saying with the gearbox jumping between the gears-
The 2 speed clutch material is not the best if you go for a run even 5min qual and then pull apart the gearbox grab the metal centre that the shoes sit on and turn the shoes there is alot of play there.
OH i hear you say tighten the grub screws and yes the play is gone no prob you are correct go for a run first 5-10 laps gear box is fantastic then back to jumping gears again.
Check the slop in the gearbox clutch shoes again the play is back the grub screws come loose because of the material is so soft.
Resolve super glue the grub screws and find a slightly bigger grub screw but you will need to clean up the top of the clutch shoe after you insert the bigger grub screw ( just with a hobby knife works fine)
I hope this helps any thing else just ask ill help the best i can these 2 issues i have been through already so i feel im very intimate with my 733 SL6 gearbox now lol
#4028
Also one to look out for because of my massive horsepower IDM
I was testing yesterday and stripped a gear bang like that no extra noise or any sign it was about to happen hmmmmmm!!!
Ok found problem the mono engine mount actually stripped the 1x engine screw out if it and i said oh well its only one screw ha
Don't go driving with 3x engine screws in 1 and a half laps striped 1st again
My fault replaced the engine mount no problem.
Just thought id share that with you.
Other than that the 733 is a weapon for 2012 i just need to save weight somewhere thinking thinking.
Any sugestions
Already running LIFE bat , titanium screws ,
I was testing yesterday and stripped a gear bang like that no extra noise or any sign it was about to happen hmmmmmm!!!
Ok found problem the mono engine mount actually stripped the 1x engine screw out if it and i said oh well its only one screw ha
Don't go driving with 3x engine screws in 1 and a half laps striped 1st again
My fault replaced the engine mount no problem.
Just thought id share that with you.
Other than that the 733 is a weapon for 2012 i just need to save weight somewhere thinking thinking.
Any sugestions
Already running LIFE bat , titanium screws ,
#4029
Thanks for the tips with the SL6 Aza!!!!
I'll give it all a try at the next clubby. Hopefully I can upset some of these Capricorn guys at MRCCR
The chassis was AWESOME though
Without ballast my TE weighs in at 1690 with an OS Speed 12XZ, Savox 1251MG servos, Xceed Ti screws except chassis screws, 3racing Ti turnbuckle links, Capricorn 1650mah LiFe, Futaba FASST reciever
1690g and that's with the alloy servo saver and alloy front arm carriers.
I had 50g ballast on the car for the Vics
I'll give it all a try at the next clubby. Hopefully I can upset some of these Capricorn guys at MRCCR
The chassis was AWESOME though
1690g and that's with the alloy servo saver and alloy front arm carriers.
I had 50g ballast on the car for the Vics
#4030
Used it without wear for 6 weekends racing and still good for more. I use a 700mah life wich is only 40grams
Lightweight axle on the tranny and front will help too. Look at the alu parts wich are new om the serpent site, they are already working on it.
And remember, lighter cars don`t always win though.
#4031
#4032
Who can guess what it is call looks so nice though
#4033
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Pass you soon...
Last edited by lil-bump; 01-31-2012 at 06:58 PM.
#4035
No its not 740 or 733 anything just keep checking redrc for updates lol
Yes patto it will still fly wink wink
Yes patto it will still fly wink wink