Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#7411
Tech Master
This is the track he is talking about its very unique http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvtVIQ7mf5k
+ YouTube Video | |
#7412
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Can't believe I'm gonna do this but.... Yokemad, if it's GMCC your running at, can I suggest you go and have a look at Rich Thorpes car... he's running a 416, so should be able to help you out on a setup direction
As for the setup, I would certainly say you were running it too softly sprung to start with... White/Blues is deffiently the way to go for the springs.
Also, have a check of those 44mm rear driveshafts, and make 100% sure they aren't touching the diff nut anywhere during the suspension movement. Given your running the rear end even narrower than kit, I have a suspicion that the 44mm driveshafts might be binding up at the rear on compression, as I know I could get the blade too touch the nut with the XA/E blocks on and 2° of camber...
And change the rear blocks to XA/E, whilst the narrower ones give more grip and a bit quicker rotation, they can be very hard to drive... with the 1mm under the rear blocks, you should have enough rotation already.
As for the ackerman, less shims will take aware overall steering, but increase initial responsiveness, whilst more does the opposite... by the sounds of it, you want to put more shims in there to calm down the twitchyness (as has already been suggested)
And one final thing to try, if you have shead loads of grip... go too 7F/6R on the droop... it works a treat to stop the car traction rolling (ran on the sweeps and X1 this weekend at MM-RR, and that helped a load).
HiH
Ed
As for the setup, I would certainly say you were running it too softly sprung to start with... White/Blues is deffiently the way to go for the springs.
Also, have a check of those 44mm rear driveshafts, and make 100% sure they aren't touching the diff nut anywhere during the suspension movement. Given your running the rear end even narrower than kit, I have a suspicion that the 44mm driveshafts might be binding up at the rear on compression, as I know I could get the blade too touch the nut with the XA/E blocks on and 2° of camber...
And change the rear blocks to XA/E, whilst the narrower ones give more grip and a bit quicker rotation, they can be very hard to drive... with the 1mm under the rear blocks, you should have enough rotation already.
As for the ackerman, less shims will take aware overall steering, but increase initial responsiveness, whilst more does the opposite... by the sounds of it, you want to put more shims in there to calm down the twitchyness (as has already been suggested)
And one final thing to try, if you have shead loads of grip... go too 7F/6R on the droop... it works a treat to stop the car traction rolling (ran on the sweeps and X1 this weekend at MM-RR, and that helped a load).
HiH
Ed
#7413
Thanx Mate
Thorpe Is a Diamond Fella and Very Helpfull
He noticed I put 2 of the Reversable Wishbones wrong way around LOL
I just try to Collect as much Ideas As Possible before the Meeting
How About Top deck Cut ? Is it better to go Normal Top Deck?
All The Best
Thorpe Is a Diamond Fella and Very Helpfull
He noticed I put 2 of the Reversable Wishbones wrong way around LOL
I just try to Collect as much Ideas As Possible before the Meeting
How About Top deck Cut ? Is it better to go Normal Top Deck?
All The Best
#7415
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Like I said, I'm glad to give my setup out to anyone, but I'm still willing to help those who would rather I lie about how it tends to drive.
#7417
Hello,
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
#7419
Hello,
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
#7420
Hello,
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
#7421
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Toh,
All chassis are different from each other.
1) 416 vs 416WE battery position moved forward 5mm
2) 416 & WE vs 416X rear diff moved backward by 1.8mm & motor mount moved in centreline (belting) by 1.0mm
3) 416 & 416X battery position same, hence different compared with WE.
I have both the 416 & WE but I'd still prefer the original 416 (more steering), but I'd upgrade the top deck & motor to WE.
The only thing u could use from 416X on 416 & WE is the motor mount but u need to remove some carbon on the lower deck, where the motor sits. But if you like to up grade ur 416 to 416X, u will need the new top deck, lower deck, motor mount & rear bulkhead, maybe the front bulkhead as well (this I'm not too sure).
Hope this helps.
All chassis are different from each other.
1) 416 vs 416WE battery position moved forward 5mm
2) 416 & WE vs 416X rear diff moved backward by 1.8mm & motor mount moved in centreline (belting) by 1.0mm
3) 416 & 416X battery position same, hence different compared with WE.
I have both the 416 & WE but I'd still prefer the original 416 (more steering), but I'd upgrade the top deck & motor to WE.
The only thing u could use from 416X on 416 & WE is the motor mount but u need to remove some carbon on the lower deck, where the motor sits. But if you like to up grade ur 416 to 416X, u will need the new top deck, lower deck, motor mount & rear bulkhead, maybe the front bulkhead as well (this I'm not too sure).
Hope this helps.
My apologies.
Since I just got the kit, it seems that the new chassis is rather similar with the ori 416 with some minor changes. So If u want to use the new chassis on your 416 or WE, there shouldn't be any issue but u may consider getting the new motor mount as well.
Cheers.
#7422
Hello,
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
at the moment I am planning to make new TRF Damper Spring retainers, which will be suitable for HB Springs AND Tamiya Springs.
At the moment I am making the final drawings for Square. So they can make the retainers in early 2010.
In the attachment you will find a picture of some prototypes. They fit perfectly and holds both spring types firmly.
so is a best spring !
#7423
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Toh,
My apologies.
Since I just got the kit, it seems that the new chassis is rather similar with the ori 416 with some minor changes. So If u want to use the new chassis on your 416 or WE, there shouldn't be any issue but u may consider getting the new motor mount as well.
Cheers.
My apologies.
Since I just got the kit, it seems that the new chassis is rather similar with the ori 416 with some minor changes. So If u want to use the new chassis on your 416 or WE, there shouldn't be any issue but u may consider getting the new motor mount as well.
Cheers.
Also measured the top deck, and the flex scetion between the rear top deck screws is also slightly longer than on the WE and X. Kinda between where they are on the WE and removing the third screw... see the picture to see whaty I mean
Basically, you can't use the X chassis plate with an orig or WE 416, without getting the new rear bulkheads (and the new centre bulkheads, and top deck in turn).
However, you CAN use the new motor mount on an original and a WE, but like mentioned previously, you'll lose a screwmounting hole in the top deck.
HiH
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 12-10-2009 at 12:21 PM.
#7424
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
Any suggestions on how to keep a car from stepping out in a high speed sweeper around the middle, and on through to the end? It's otherwise stable around the rest of the track, but I can't drive the sweeper with any confidence at all. I've shaken down the whole car looking for something bent or broken, and tried all kinds of setup stuff. I wonder if less ackermann (5mm currently) would help?