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Old 09-06-2006, 10:29 PM
  #136  
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yeah, motor spray is fine, but is about 10 times the price. a litre of metho in Aus costs about $1.50, a large can of motor spray (750g) is about $15
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Old 09-06-2006, 11:48 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by PeteB
yeah, motor spray is fine, but is about 10 times the price. a litre of metho in Aus costs about $1.50, a large can of motor spray (750g) is about $15
I use motortech brake cleaner i paid like $3 a can a while back and theyre pretty big cans
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Old 09-07-2006, 12:44 AM
  #138  
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Guys, i have just started reading this thread and some of the chemicals used are pretty dangerous and not just the flamability aspect. After working in the airconditioning business (large commercial systems and cooling towers) I have used and seen a lot these chemicals. Make sure you follow the directions and if possible ask the manufacturer for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). It shows how best to handle these chemicals. In Australia it is law to have these available and can be found on most websites.
I think water should be OK.

Clean is good!!!!

Mr Hav_lova, why are you still slow?
Are you racing Sunday week or are you heading to Queensland?
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Old 09-07-2006, 05:51 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by gazza726
i was recenty in the mid north coast owtlaw challenge.. i ran stock but i had to have a look at the 540 class and there was an old guy runi a bmi tc3 in the 540 class and i never seen a 540 car go so fast.. so i asked him wat he was doin to his silver cans and he told me cleaner is faster.. he was syin he dips his motors in water to clean them out then sprays wd40 in them then dips them in water with the wd40 in the motor then dips again in fresh water to rinse and bench runs it for 5 mins then cleans the com with metho.. i have tried this on an old johson 540 i had and it is notacbly faster and its leagal coz u dont open the can but just remeber cleaner is faster...
yeh i race with this guy evey week in seniors class & he is usally on the money,but for the outlaw meeting he also had brand new matched 4200 batt packs,which until i puchaced 4200"si didnt think made that much difference over 3800"s,hence 540 has now become a battery war, because it is so competative if you dont have 4200"s or better it is harder to run at the pointy end on a regular basis
but i do agree cleaner is faster
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:29 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by v0rtex
Its Liquid Hydrocarbon. Used in dry-cleaning too.
white spirits is dry cleaning fluid. shellite originaly used for wick type lamps and zippo style lighters ect.turpentine is liquid hydrocarbon
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:31 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by Professor
yeh i race with this guy evey week in seniors class & he is usally on the money,but for the outlaw meeting he also had brand new matched 4200 batt packs,which until i puchaced 4200"si didnt think made that much difference over 3800"s,hence 540 has now become a battery war, because it is so competative if you dont have 4200"s or better it is harder to run at the pointy end on a regular basis
but i do agree cleaner is faster
About 5 years ago New Zealand changed 540 stock from open batteries to 1300-1500mah batteries. Popular choises are either the Sanyo 1300s or Tamiya 1400s. Probably one of the best rule changes made in a long time because of the reason you just said about battery war.
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Old 09-08-2006, 12:47 PM
  #142  
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OK, I have a brand new 4 slot motor and I need to know the perfect way to break it in and get some power.
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Old 09-08-2006, 06:08 PM
  #143  
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Come on fellas, I am not old, just getting along in the years and been racing from 1977 to 91 and then started up in January 06. Firstly, kids, do not use Shellite without adults, then only in the outside with a fan going for the fumes, then ONLY 2 VOLTS NO MORE. The Proffessor is on the money too, dont worry about that, but as he said, I had a pack of Ferral batteries that were off the shelf but fast, as well I had a lot of good luck last weekend. Keep the motor clean, the BMI TC3 can roll on a flat service, well nearly, so there is no friction, and keep away from the dots,
RIP Brocky
Aussie BOB
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Old 09-08-2006, 06:24 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by bizkit1
OK, I have a brand new 4 slot motor and I need to know the perfect way to break it in and get some power.
Give it to TJ!
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Old 09-09-2006, 03:11 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by AUSSIE BOB
RIP Brocky
Aussie BOB
Amen to that brother
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:09 PM
  #146  
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will acetone kill a motor?
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MK_Arbiter
will acetone kill a motor?
it will dry out the lubricants in the brushes
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Old 09-10-2006, 04:52 PM
  #148  
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any way to re lube the brushes?
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:26 PM
  #149  
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The bushes can be oiled with a light oil, one drop before each race on each bush. But the best way is to have a motor for each race, then when you return home you can do the cleaning thing. I just redid my motors from the North Coast Titles (In which i was called an Old Guy) and i have my number one motor up to 19,850 revs now, my others are now close to that after cleaning. Like i said, light machine oil, the thickness of water. Thanks Aussie Bob
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:54 PM
  #150  
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aussie bob

might have to start enforcing the armacc rules if you motors are doing that
there is a rpm limit of 17000 under thier rules,will have to keep my eye on your performance at the next meet
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