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Old 01-17-2006, 08:16 PM
  #13711  
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Default does anyone have an extra thin alloy hex hub to sell?

I broke one of mine and they are 35 for a set. I only need one. Does anyone have an extra pro 4 thin alloy hex hub clamp to sell?
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:03 PM
  #13712  
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Get the ones for the cyclone slightly thicker much stronger no need to run spacers and they cost a bunch less
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:21 PM
  #13713  
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Default TiR CVD's

Has anyone had any experiences with TiR worlds edition cvd's on their Pro4 and the one-way unit?

My one-way is rapidly eating my worlds ed cvd's at the pin. The steel outdrives on the one-way diff are killer.
Put around 12packs through the car and the pins are almost HALF GONE!!..
If i swap the cvd's from left to right, it will be less than 12 packs before the pin is completely sheared off.

Not cool...
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:44 PM
  #13714  
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Wow, only 12 packs. I have used mine(also with one-way) for 2 months now, hardly any wear(ok, my car is a BD). My friend runs Pro4 also with TiR CVD and holding up fine. We runs 12T mod. Are you running 6-7T mod?
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:57 AM
  #13715  
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Perhaps i should take a pic or two. The wear rate is really quite incredible. I was shocked to see that much wear.

I have used aluminium cvd's (stock units that came with the car) for half a year with little to no wear.

I'm running a Novak GTB with a Velocity 5.5R motor. Roughly equivalent to a 12t motor. I CANNOT keep up with the 9t guys at the track. Not even close. I am faster than the 19t guys but they have more punch out of the corners.

The track is uphill going through the technical infield and finishing with a downhill straight and a final 90 degree sweeper taken at almost top speed. (Wow, that corner is a blast)

I can't afford to keep running the TiR CVD's up front like this.
Although i can say that they have held up VERY VERY well to minor scrapes and collisions. Much better than the alu units.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:16 AM
  #13716  
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Originally Posted by AngryAsian
I can't afford to keep running the TiR CVD's up front like this. Although i can say that they have held up VERY VERY well to minor scrapes and collisions. Much better than the alu units.
Have you tried the new TC4 alu bones (31034)? They fit well and seem much stronger than any of the other metal bones I've tried including the HPI bones and the MIP steel bones.

Ira
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:37 AM
  #13717  
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Just go with some MIP shiny cvd's for the TC3/4. I have them and they are great!
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:16 AM
  #13718  
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i'm selling my Pro4 now. Anybody interested? It's really a bargain. You'll get a lot of extra parts, alloy hopups, alloy diffs, 11 pinions and 4 spurs. This all for $230

Check: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=97039
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:33 PM
  #13719  
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Just go with some MIP shiny cvd's for the TC3/4. I have them and they are great!
Sorry, but I have to disagree. I tried the shiny bones and they bent about as easily as the HPI stock bones. The new TC4 alu bones are much stronger and are about the same price.

Ira
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:07 PM
  #13720  
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Originally Posted by iblumberg
Sorry, but I have to disagree. I tried the shiny bones and they bent about as easily as the HPI stock bones. The new TC4 alu bones are much stronger and are about the same price.

Ira

I'll have to agree with Ira as well... the shiny TC3 bones will bend...
and I've had no problems with the HD TC4 bones...

there's a racer on the boards that will anodize them Purple if you want...

I had mine done and posted pics awhile back..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=101304

Last edited by rc-zombies; 01-18-2006 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:21 PM
  #13721  
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Originally Posted by bionictony
I broke one of mine and they are 35 for a set. I only need one. Does anyone have an extra pro 4 thin alloy hex hub clamp to sell?
I did the same thing. I have 3 extra ones lying around. However, they are the ones used in the Original release of the Pro4. I'm not sure if those are thin or if newer ones came out later that were thinner.
If you can use it pm me.
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Old 01-19-2006, 05:22 AM
  #13722  
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You guys are crashing that bad to bend all these dogbones? I have not had any problems with any of the for mentioned dogbones.

IRS has some nice ones for the TC3 that are larger diameter and has 4 holes for the pin. I have only seen them with pin coushions installed. About 28 a pair.
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:49 PM
  #13723  
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
You guys are crashing that bad to bend all these dogbones? I have not had any problems with any of the for mentioned dogbones.

IRS has some nice ones for the TC3 that are larger diameter and has 4 holes for the pin. I have only seen them with pin coushions installed. About 28 a pair.
I have raced a TC4 and a JRXS before the Pro4. I have improved my driving significantly since getting the Pro4 and the crashes I have had with my Pro4 have been much more gentle than those with my previous cars. With the previous cars, I only ever bent or broke a dog bone by crashing hard into a steel pole. Other than that, the dog bones never had a problem.

Nonetheless, the Pro4 has bent the original HPI dog bones, and a set of the MIP shiny bones. I now run a set of updated TC4 alu bones that seem to be holding up. I have been amazed at how easy it is to bend the front bones after even very minor crashes. Others have noted this as well. I don't understand the physics behind this issue, but it is clear that something about the Pro4 bends bones. Could be that many folks are running spools or 1 ways rather than front diffs.

Ira
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:57 PM
  #13724  
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I have run various other cars before running a Pro4 and it seems that they all will bend front axles with a spool or a oneway because there really is not alot of give in the front drivetrain when you do not run a diff. When I run a front diff I never bend any bones.
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Old 01-19-2006, 03:12 PM
  #13725  
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Originally Posted by tandman
I have run various other cars before running a Pro4 and it seems that they all will bend front axles with a spool or a oneway because there really is not alot of give in the front drivetrain when you do not run a diff. When I run a front diff I never bend any bones.
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