Speedpassion Brushless.
12-30-2007, 05:34 PM
#586
Sp
Hi, #8 on throttle and #7 On timming. FDR on 4.5 was 8.22 and 10.5 was 5.00 temp 150 motor and 135 EsC
12-30-2007, 05:38 PM
#587
If you ran Zero timing (AMTS Setting #1) you were way under timed and probably under geared. I ran my Novak 10.5 at 4.8 FDR and it didnt get too hot.
I would leave the gearing the same (5.18) as start walking the timing up to the default setting of #6 (18.75*). Don't worry about temps until you get close to 180*F.
I would leave the gearing the same (5.18) as start walking the timing up to the default setting of #6 (18.75*). Don't worry about temps until you get close to 180*F.
What about using 7-8 on the throttle profiles? Will this give more power/speed?
12-30-2007, 05:39 PM
#588
I'm working on getting some stock motor stats together for next week, I did get a good bit of runtime today but my radio cut me short for more testing, I'll post what I ended up with in a few days, but I can say the GT and SP 13.5 felt great!!!!!
12-30-2007, 05:45 PM
#592
If your serious about racing I would say GT, it is the "race ready" top of the line ESC.
More on the spec side, beginner level, 13.5, 10.5, also to include 21.5 and 17.5 **((""slower motors""))** the Feigao would be a GREAT choice for the price.
I assure you I don't mean slower motors in a disrespectful way, I only race stock myself
More on the spec side, beginner level, 13.5, 10.5, also to include 21.5 and 17.5 **((""slower motors""))** the Feigao would be a GREAT choice for the price.
I assure you I don't mean slower motors in a disrespectful way, I only race stock myself
12-30-2007, 05:50 PM
#594
Thanks adam,
Where can I find more tech info on these?
Currently I have LRP Sphere Comp and 3 GTB's, but I'd like to do some testing of the SpeedPassion stuff because I know some of our OVAL drivers will want to try them if I allow 'Sensored' units other than just those 2.
(Right now our rules only allow for 'sensored' ESC's from LRP and NOVAK)
Where can I find more tech info on these?
Currently I have LRP Sphere Comp and 3 GTB's, but I'd like to do some testing of the SpeedPassion stuff because I know some of our OVAL drivers will want to try them if I allow 'Sensored' units other than just those 2.
(Right now our rules only allow for 'sensored' ESC's from LRP and NOVAK)
12-30-2007, 05:58 PM
#595
Hello Guys, My son Austin ran the SP 4.5 and the 10.5 today on a fast big track.Ran 4.5 with same FDR and ESC settings, new CS 27 the same for all 3 motors. 4.5 was overall much Faster than are other mod motors we ran. The 10.5 was just fast. Blows out all other 10.5 in my opinion. We tested 4different type of 10.5 motors. PW setup, EP 4600, All in All great propuct. Thanks Ron Harrison,
12-30-2007, 07:18 PM
#597
Today I had my first runs with the GT and Sp 10.5 motor on my Cyclone...
Gearing: 5.18FDR Temps: 141F after 6 min heat.
results: well, set it up with the zero timing and #6 throttle profile. The car was fast and had good low end. In 2 heats today, It had real good low end, but down the straight it wasnt as fast as the the others guys like the BOwser Brothers, Tim K., D. Batiste, etc, who were running mostly Novak. That was the only issue..I needed a bit more top end...almost there!!( my driving didnt help)
1) Gearing: The gearing tells me I can try one more tooth on the Pinion, but the temps will get higher...I like the 10.5 motors to run in the 140-145F range, and the Novak and Orion 10.5 i have tried performed real well at those temps and were a bit faster than my SP 10.5 today...
2) ESC settings: I can try using timing on the ESC, maybe 3.75 deg option or something else...if anyone has played with this please let us know what timing gives the best result. Incresing the throttle profile from 6 to 7 or 8 might do it, but this might also increase temps, as it happens w/ LRP Sphere TC. I dont mind getting 160F temps as long as it wont kill the motor...
Any other suggestions?
Anyone run GT and SP 10.5 today? What setings did you use and what FDR and how did it fare against other systems?
Gearing: 5.18FDR Temps: 141F after 6 min heat.
results: well, set it up with the zero timing and #6 throttle profile. The car was fast and had good low end. In 2 heats today, It had real good low end, but down the straight it wasnt as fast as the the others guys like the BOwser Brothers, Tim K., D. Batiste, etc, who were running mostly Novak. That was the only issue..I needed a bit more top end...almost there!!( my driving didnt help)
1) Gearing: The gearing tells me I can try one more tooth on the Pinion, but the temps will get higher...I like the 10.5 motors to run in the 140-145F range, and the Novak and Orion 10.5 i have tried performed real well at those temps and were a bit faster than my SP 10.5 today...
2) ESC settings: I can try using timing on the ESC, maybe 3.75 deg option or something else...if anyone has played with this please let us know what timing gives the best result. Incresing the throttle profile from 6 to 7 or 8 might do it, but this might also increase temps, as it happens w/ LRP Sphere TC. I dont mind getting 160F temps as long as it wont kill the motor...
Any other suggestions?
Anyone run GT and SP 10.5 today? What setings did you use and what FDR and how did it fare against other systems?
12-30-2007, 10:11 PM
#600
Hi Guys,
I know BL is either totally, or very new to some of you, so here are some basics of ESC setup:
1) Gearing is for top speed and NOTHING ELSE.
DON'T overgear to try to kill torque. The torque will still be there (presuming the batts can handle the output) and you'll just go faster and bring into play all the things that come along with higher top speed (ie: hot ESC, motor and batts).
2) Timing advance can be your best friend, and your worst enemy at the same time.
Each car, gear ratio, track, traction condition, driving style and motor will need a different combination of ESC timing advance and gearing setup to get the most out of the motor.
The best procedure here is the following:
Gear for the track FIRST. If you're not getting to full throttle at all, or not holding full throttle for more than a second at your track - you're probably geared too fast. Motor temps tell you where you are with your gearing/track style/driving style/traction conditions. I like to gear to where the motor comes off at around 120-130F after a race run with minimal timing advance as a starting point.
From there, experiment with increasing timing advance, decreasing timing advance, faster gearing and slower gearing interchangably. Let your lap times and motor temps guide you into the "sweet spot" for that particular situation.
There are too many factors to have hard and fast rules for what always works best, but the broad generality I've found over the years is this:
For tracks with high grip and lots of areas of hard (almost zero throttle to full throttle almost instantly) accelleration, you're better off with lower timing advance and faster gearing in order to make top speed. A tight technical track with high grip would be an example track type here.
For long and flowy tracks where you tend to roll into and out of the throttle more slowly and gently, you're better off with a higher timing advance setting and slower gearing in order to make top speed. SS Speedway where we were today (8th scale nitro track) is a great example of this type of track.
And regardless of the track type, remember that excess timing advance always will lead to a point of diminishing returns somewhere. In other words, if "Xdeg" was really good, then "X+5deg" should be better right? Not always. At some point, just like brushed motors, more advance will cause the motor to run exponentially hotter and SLOWER than the next lower setting.
What timing advance actually does for a BL motor:
Raising advance (up to a point) causes harder acceleration (more torque) and faster top speeds (higher motor Kv). SOMETIMES at the expense of higher motor temps.
Rasing advance too far causes LESS torque and SLOWER speeds and always at the expense of GREATLY increased motor temps.
Lowering advance causes softer acceleration (less torque) and slower top speeds (lower motor Kv). Most of the time lowering advance will lower motor temps.
I know BL is either totally, or very new to some of you, so here are some basics of ESC setup:
1) Gearing is for top speed and NOTHING ELSE.
DON'T overgear to try to kill torque. The torque will still be there (presuming the batts can handle the output) and you'll just go faster and bring into play all the things that come along with higher top speed (ie: hot ESC, motor and batts).
2) Timing advance can be your best friend, and your worst enemy at the same time.
Each car, gear ratio, track, traction condition, driving style and motor will need a different combination of ESC timing advance and gearing setup to get the most out of the motor.
The best procedure here is the following:
Gear for the track FIRST. If you're not getting to full throttle at all, or not holding full throttle for more than a second at your track - you're probably geared too fast. Motor temps tell you where you are with your gearing/track style/driving style/traction conditions. I like to gear to where the motor comes off at around 120-130F after a race run with minimal timing advance as a starting point.
From there, experiment with increasing timing advance, decreasing timing advance, faster gearing and slower gearing interchangably. Let your lap times and motor temps guide you into the "sweet spot" for that particular situation.
There are too many factors to have hard and fast rules for what always works best, but the broad generality I've found over the years is this:
For tracks with high grip and lots of areas of hard (almost zero throttle to full throttle almost instantly) accelleration, you're better off with lower timing advance and faster gearing in order to make top speed. A tight technical track with high grip would be an example track type here.
For long and flowy tracks where you tend to roll into and out of the throttle more slowly and gently, you're better off with a higher timing advance setting and slower gearing in order to make top speed. SS Speedway where we were today (8th scale nitro track) is a great example of this type of track.
And regardless of the track type, remember that excess timing advance always will lead to a point of diminishing returns somewhere. In other words, if "Xdeg" was really good, then "X+5deg" should be better right? Not always. At some point, just like brushed motors, more advance will cause the motor to run exponentially hotter and SLOWER than the next lower setting.
What timing advance actually does for a BL motor:
Raising advance (up to a point) causes harder acceleration (more torque) and faster top speeds (higher motor Kv). SOMETIMES at the expense of higher motor temps.
Rasing advance too far causes LESS torque and SLOWER speeds and always at the expense of GREATLY increased motor temps.
Lowering advance causes softer acceleration (less torque) and slower top speeds (lower motor Kv). Most of the time lowering advance will lower motor temps.