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Old 10-22-2008, 06:34 AM
  #14221  
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Originally Posted by shadow102
The speed 6 will give you more steering. What spring are you running in the rear? I know shortening my camber links made the car more reactive and just increased the on power steering I already had. I am only running 2mm droop over ride height right now too.
Hi , im running pink front and silver rear .
i will try shortening camber links , but i extended my links to the max because i run on a low grip track , and by having longer links gave me more rear traction wich i needed.but i will try shorter links.
What im looking for is more onpower steering but not at full speed, only at half speed.
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:06 AM
  #14222  
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hi , im running pink front and silver rear .
i will try shortening camber links , but i extended my links to the max because i run on a low grip track , and by having longer links gave me more rear traction wich i needed.but i will try shorter links.
What im looking for is more onpower steering but not at full speed, only at half speed.
I ran low grip this past summer. Change your springs and try silver front blue rear. I even went to the gold xray springs in the rear which made my rear grip better. Are you running sway bars?
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:11 AM
  #14223  
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Originally Posted by shadow102
I ran low grip this past summer. Change your springs and try silver front blue rear. I even went to the gold xray springs in the rear which made my rear grip better. Are you running sway bars?
im running 1.4mm roll bar all round.
But if i go on softer rear spring , wouldnt it decrease on power steering.
could you pm me your setup on a low grip track , was it a open or medium track.
Thanks
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:11 AM
  #14224  
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Does anybody a hobbyshop has this car in stock 1/12
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:23 AM
  #14225  
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hi , im running pink front and silver rear .
i will try shortening camber links , but i extended my links to the max because i run on a low grip track , and by having longer links gave me more rear traction wich i needed.but i will try shorter links.
What im looking for is more onpower steering but not at full speed, only at half speed.
You can try antisquat, but if you run a low traction track you might have trouble with oversteering.
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:53 AM
  #14226  
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Originally Posted by Itchy
You can try antisquat, but if you run a low traction track you might have trouble with oversteering.
Hi , i already had probleme with oversteer , thats wy i went from 2 mm to1mm under rear camber link.
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Old 10-22-2008, 08:11 AM
  #14227  
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Originally Posted by metheny
Does anybody a hobbyshop has this car in stock 1/12
stormer hobbies has it for 209.95
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:01 PM
  #14228  
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes
Hi all,

Since here we look to be changing to lipo, wich lipo fit to the car without any dremel help?

Thanks in advance.
Hi
We have this in production now, it will be on sale on www.coolcanfan.co.uk very soon, but if you want one, just pm me please.
The LWP is made from 1.5 stainless steel, and weighs approximately 95/100 grams, and is held in place by 2xm3 screws utilizing the 2 holes that are down the centre of the WCE, TC and 008 chassis. A number of lead weights can be adhered to the base of the plate, utilizing the cell slots, I suggest you remove the double sided tape from them, and key the surface of the weight, as well as the LWP, and degrease the surfaces before gluing them to the LWP.

The LWP will have a carbon fibre effect covering which you can apply if you wish, and has a lip on the outside edge, to help prevent the lipo from coming out of the car. Also a piece of sticky back foam, can be used on the LWP towards the left of the lipo, to help prevent the lipo from moving towards the middle of the car. A piece of foam sits just in front of the the lipo, and rests against the front bulk head, whilst the back of the lipo rests against the rear bulkhead, this will help the lipo from moving forward, so as not to unsettle the car. On the 008, the battery strap can be used, or remove the strap, and leave the posts in place, and place a piece of foam in between the lipo and post to help the inertia affect.

The LWP kit will comprise of

1) LWP will be made of 1.5mm brush stainless steel, weighing approx 95 grams
2) 2x3m fixing screws
3) A strip of sticky back foam, to be placed on the opposite side of the lipo, as a restraint.
4) A foam block retainer, for front/rear of the lipo
5) A piece of carbon fibre effect covering for the LWP if you would like to cover the brushed stainless steel.
6) A piece of carbon fibre effect covering for the base of the Orion lipo, once the noduals have been removed, so as to tidy the base of the lipo

This LPW version, will accept Orion 3200 3600 3800 and Nosram 5300 28c to date, as other lipos come along, we will let you know what ones will fit.

This LWP can be used on the WCE, TC, and X-ray008 as there are extra fixing holes in the LWP for each model, you just pick the holes that suit your car.

Further LWP will be available soon for all popular models.

Cheers THECANMAN
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Old 10-22-2008, 04:12 PM
  #14229  
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Well I have some good and bad news about the xray c hubs needed to run the new axles.

The c hub itself physically fits in the space. However the xray hinge pin is larger in diameter so you will to get them and drill out the arms so they fit. You will also need the hat bushings to go into the c hub. So it should all work with some minor modification and a couple extra bucks...all depends on how much the spool chatter is bothering you
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Old 10-22-2008, 04:21 PM
  #14230  
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hi , i already had probleme with oversteer , thats wy i went from 2 mm to1mm under rear camber link.
Huh....you're raising the rear roll center to limit oversteer???
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Old 10-22-2008, 04:28 PM
  #14231  
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Yes, it techincally raises the roll center, but usually one will feel the effects of the amount of camber regression (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed) when the camber links are more angled.

A more angled link will give slighly less initial grip for the first 10% of the corner, then will create more grip throughout the rest of the turn.

You will notice the effects of rollcenter more from moving the suspension/toe blocks up and down with shims.

-Korey
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:21 PM
  #14232  
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Hi Guys,

For those who have been searching, We have Cyclone TC's back in stock.

Cheers,
Jeff
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Old 10-23-2008, 06:57 AM
  #14233  
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I'm going to try using the outside hole on the rear hub and inside hole on the rear bulkhead for a very long link, I've not seen this used on any set-up posted by anybody. I did some dremeling on the ball cup so it wont hit the wheel , I'm running carpet rubber 10.5.
I would like to know what effect this will have (front & back) before I drive with this change so I know what to expect.

Thanks Guys
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:12 AM
  #14234  
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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy
I'm going to try using the outside hole on the rear hub and inside hole on the rear bulkhead for a very long link, I've not seen this used on any set-up posted by anybody. I did some dremeling on the ball cup so it wont hit the wheel , I'm running carpet rubber 10.5.
I would like to know what effect this will have (front & back) before I drive with this change so I know what to expect.

Thanks Guys
Why do you need that much traction on carpet. I tried that once runnign outdoor asphalt and the off power steering was terrible. I had the traction I was looking for. I shortened up the link to the original position put on some softer rear springs and it gave me the traction I was looking for and the off power steering I was looking for
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:40 AM
  #14235  
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hi , does anyone has a picture of there car with a GTB please.
thanks
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