Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thought this when I built mine that the braking action was less then I expected in the pivot of the brake post in the bulkhead and it felt like you had no brakes as a result.

Also had issues with the 2 speed shaft and the bearings going over it, it was like the shaft thickness tolerance was slightly off.

Serpent007

Hey guys, thought id just touch base and say gday to all,
I have a fresh 747 i built up a couple of weeks ago, just playing around with final small touches, aligning spur/pinion 100% and getting my SRS-N body painted etc..
Mine went together really nicely, no issues at all with the build from bag 1 til the last bag, my braking feels really good in every aspect..the real test will be on the track though I guess as always..
Also, If anyone has a spare front oneway kit they want to sell, I'll snap it up straight away..Til next time..
Ryan

Blown1940

Just got my new brake pads and both have gray material on them so I will wait and see how it goes on Sunday with them in.

Is it possible that there is 2 different compounds?

Blown1940

Update

Brake issue fixed, Tyre wear has been lowered now I am just trying to get rid of some understeer once that's done I will be happy.

GPXJOE

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys does anyone know at what track conditions would you use a solid axl front and rear and a one way for front?regards

carkillaii

iTrader: (2)

After years of running a K car I have decided to get a 747 what are the things I need to know about this car options & all!!!!

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Congrats on the new ride. Make sure you pick-up a bias weight for the underside of the chassis.


Pass you soon...

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Any feedback on these new option parts?

Joe Kimble

iTrader: (19)

Hi guys, so I noticed that the engine rides too low so the aluminum plate that holds the clutch shoe rubs against the chassis when clutch is engaged... It doesn't rub when there are no shims behind the cone but if you put enough shims to find 100% contact with the spurs there is rubbing. With the stock engine mount the only options are either to not have 100% contact with the spurs (which reduces the lifespan of the pinions and spurs) or to dremel a groove in the chassis to make enough clearance...

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I slightly dremeled my chassis. If you run the 733 clutch(non-reversed) it will rub a ton!

Pass you soon...

Joe Kimble

iTrader: (19)

Ok. I ll do that but will also add .2 shims between engine and engine mount. I think that a slightly taller engine mount should solve the problem. I also noticed that there is less than .2mm clearance between the engine and chassis.

djiewie

Maybe what i do with my xray can be a help?
I put the spurs on the clutchbell but don`t fasten it to the bell, i release the 2e spur a litlle and thighten it with the first spur. This way you can play with how far the spur are on the bell without lengthening the complete clutch. I do this to release the spurs on the bell with just the two spur tools. They won`t get too thight on the bell this way. Maybe this is a thing/idea wich can help. Could just be what you need to not have the clutchbell rub against the chassis.

Joe Kimble

iTrader: (19)

That sounds like a good idea, but on the centax WC clutch the pinions aren't in contact with each other.
Thanks though ;-)

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Hey,

Dont raise the engine, just dremel the inside of the chassis slightly.
BTW, car looked good yesterday.

Joe Kimble

iTrader: (19)

Thanks :-)

I didn't raise the engine, I realized that the engine needs to sit flat on engine mount because the crankcase of engine has some kind of flex when warm which can cause bearing failure if not perfectly seated in engine mount. I just dremeled a groove in the chassis.