AreCee

iTrader: (1)

No problem . Actually I see more newbies with the fix at my track then seasoned racers. Though I have spotted the K-factory shocktowers on a couple cars, talk about cost ($60+) , those use all four screw positions

chorner

Hey Puma,

Well I had the kit out for the first time today just on the driveway/street and man oh man do I love the handling!!

Wow. All I can say. It feels like you can just keep throwing it into the corners harder and harder. Thats with the stock rubber tires The thing is dialed in better than I had my mugen with foams, granted I didn't have enough time to get my setup just right before getting pissed and buying an NTC3. So once I work some more on the Mugens setup/tire/diff combo I'm sure it will be pretty compareable. Really havn't felt this kind of responseiveness though since driving my old RC10.

Note about the foams though .. the last set of foams apparently were duds (atleast for tracks and pavement around here??) 35shore Fast Tires and Ellegis just have no bite at all. The car was spinning out like mad, front and rear ... same goes for when I put them on the NTC3 now. The 37shore Ellegis seem to be the only half decent Ellegi foams .. otherwise, 40 and 35shore Jaco's are awesome, much better tires.

Boomer

Aint it great?!?

I talked with an Expert A-Main class driver who had one and went back to his Mugen - he said he could actually drive the NTC3 faster, but just couldn't get comfortable with how reactive and positive it was. He was just so used to belt driven cars and the way they reacted that he eventually went back to it just cause he was more comfortable with it even though he was a tad slower with it.

chorner - do you have the blade for the front? I found it makes a huge difference in reaction times on the car.

Happy to hear you like the car!

chorner

Boomer,

Awesome ... just awesome I love this thing!

I do have the sway bar kit (front blade+rear bar), but havn't put
it on yet as I'm not on the track with it Running it with no front bumper or body just burning! haha comfortable enough that I forget the bumper isn't even on yet, just goes exactly where I want it!

Anybody know some good rubber tires? I think I might pick up a stack of the Vrage (although I've heard they don't last very long?) or some other good rubber tires as well as some foams.

I'm getting such good grip and response with just the rubbers its great!

sook

Chorner, if you could find some take-offs cs32 or cs27's will last you the summer on concrete surfaces and cs22's will stick pretty well to asphalt. Take-offs is the choice brand locally on the concrete surface tracks. Glad you like the handling of the car.

On the big asphalt tracks I use either nitro shoes/fast tires 50 - 45's on the front and 40 - 42's on the rear with front anti-sway bar and a very stiff setting all the way around. Good luck out at the track.

chorner

Cool, thanks for the tip ... I'll have to pick up some take OFF tires then

Btw,

http://www.rchub.com/gfx/media/NTC3m...case01-700.jpg

Take a look at the graphite radio tray. I want something like that
except change the following :

Cut off the ends where it joins right onto the diff cases, and instead have it mount to the top of the chassis braces like the AE graphite, but leave the rest of the shape/design the way it is.

Next, those aluminum posts ... make hole so you can put in the aluminum posts where the stock radio plate touches the chassis plate.

THEN I would be a very happy camper

This AE aftermarket graphite deck is junk, the stock or carbon radio tray seems much stiffer to me.

My graphite radio plate is just sitting in the origional bag now on the shelf ... not much use for it; maybe I'll try it someday though.

alucard13

When you rebuild your kit, what does that consist of? Like what do you replace, lube, grease, etc? I'm trying to see what other people do to thier cars. Right now I only clean it thoroughly and check to make sure nothing is broken, check the screws and the engine.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I don't rebuild my car after every race weekend but i do keep
my cars clean and inspect the drivetrain for wear. i try not
to take the car apart too much so that the plastics stay
tight and i try not to pop off the ball cups if i don't have
to because i don't want to replace them sooner than
i have to.

chorner

When I clean/rebuiild my kit I check to make sure there is enough grease on everything, check the shocks for leaks/jammed dirt on the pistons and all moving parts (including the bearings to make sure they still rotate freely and smoothly).

On a kit like the NTC3 I may only check my diff tightness after every weekend and check all the arms, cvd's and any other moving part which is open to dirt. I won't take my diff case/shock tower off for a while; perhaps the end of every month or so as dirt doesn't really get in there. You can tell if your diff gears are messed/bearings need maintenance just by picking up the kit, and rotating the spur gears and feeling for any tension or rough spots through rotation (I had a little in one spot when I just finished building it, but is gone now that its been worked in).

Then of course, I clean ever last bit of dirt off the kit :P

This usually took me about 6/7 hours with my MTX3 to fully strip it, check everything, clean and reassemble. The NTC3, I have yet to do a full rebuild as its brand new Ran it this afternoon through about 6 tanks ... all I needed was to blow it off with compressed air quickly, and get in with a Q-tip in some spots. Total time spent = 20 minutes.

:P amazing

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

Now theres a happy tc3 owner..

and just think..for the price of all the hop ups the guys are adding to their cars on the Mugen forum,,you could have 2 tc3 nitros..


DRIVE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

chorner

haha, the Mugen sure is expensive ... looks nice on my shelf

Although, I would like to buy some hop-ups for this kit. Some 4-40 lock nuts for the top shock mount, some better -RPM- ball cups for the front linkages (the RPM cups and balls that come with the kit for the rear toe are great, no play whatsoever) a new pipe, and perhaps some eye candy like the blue anodized Fteam screws for the radio plate, shocks caps and blue center shaft.

Other than that, I wouldn't change anything else.

Btw, have the new white delrin diff gears solved the stripping problem with hi-power engines, anybody have experience with them? Thankfully they were in my kit ... hope they hold up for a while.

puma1824

Fastharry...

Now I know what you mean "wait until you have to change the belt" Tonight I tore up my rear belt and I'm not looking forward to stripping the rear to replace Looks like tomorrow I'll start using the NTC3 for tomorrow's race Hopefully I remember how to drive it. I really don't feel like replacing the belt tonight - I'm being lazy and I'm heading out.

Well I'm off to the bar to unwind from the work week...

Hmmm should I keep the MTX3 This is my third TC and the I still have old reliable NTC3 with me.

Later,
Puma

chorner

haha, Puma .. by that I take it you have yet to do a full rebuild of the kit Oh the joy with that MTX taking it apart and putting it back together again.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

I usually take a bottle of 99 percent denatured alch. in a spray bottle and hose everything down till it runs clean then blow it off with a compressor, check for wear, things like that.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

don't add the ft blue screws..believe it or not,the composite material Associated uses wears out the aluminum screw threads...


I had them in myu gearbox,and couldn't figure out why I was stripping threads..the screws were worn out..stick with the steel..