rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thanks for the info Dan! Hey I just checked the RC Shox site and I couldn't find gauges. All the site has is pistons and slipper, gears, etc. Am I missing something?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

032 nova header and 2046 pipe is the fastest hands down, if you dont mind paying about 20.00 more you can order the 2046 header pipe combo from Desoto just to get the pipe. if you have a 9886 it will work very well too.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Are you having tuning issues with the GT1? Mine have been super easy to tune, in stock form it will out perform the OS

I no longer make the droop guages. i can 3d print some but I am no longer offering the machined delrin ones.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Ah that's a shame. The delrin gauges are AWESOME!! Use mine all the time.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thanks MantisWorx. Desoto has been backordered for over a month now. I managed to find the 2046 pipe/header at Absolute Hobyz. I'll have to look to add the nova header to my arsenal.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Haven't had a chance to run the engine yet. I'm just looking into options down the road.

Bummer you don't make the droop gauges any longer. Any recommendations?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I can 3D print some still, just not making the machined delrin units.

Dougie1986

Hey Dan,

i got the front diff spacer. Going to try it out tomorrow. Is the bumper spacers necessary?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

not enough demand to bother trying to keep on the shelf unfortunately. Once Paolo left they dropped off! Shock pistons went up though which i thought was weird

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Yes the spacers are required. The bumper upper plate wont fit without them.

Nafspeed

Hello everyone,
Just joined this forum but not sure where to post this question. My 10 yr old son started racing with the Serpent 3.0 Gt about 7 mths ago after driving all types of rc cars since he was 3 yrs old. He has been competing with older guys who have been in the sport for years and holding his own. I am his mechanic/pitman and it has been a learning and rewarding experience for both of us. Came across this forum and have been reading a lot of valuable info especially by Dan Vector, Tony Luna, Paolo and others. Especially like how you guys help out newbies. I would like some help with the transmission. Using the SLX1 but not shifting into second. Re screwed shift point screws in and then backed out 3.5 turns but problem persists. Appreciate any assistance. Also some help in set up. Present set up:

Shock springs: Fr - Black Rr purple
1000 cst x 4

Diffs: Frnt - 500K Rear - 60k

Droop with flo control blocks: Fr - 24 Rr - 27

Ride Height: Fr -9 Rr - 10

Camber: Fr - 2 Rr-3

Toe: 1

Spurs 62 and 57

pinion 19 and 24

clutch: 2 carbon and 2 Al
Hard springs

Tires: GRP- Fr S5 Rr S3

or Sweeps 45E.

Appreciate any help.

Thanks,
Nafspeed

tonylunatic

iTrader: (45)

Couple of things to check first.

See if the car is shifting at all first. Place car on jump box and gradually accelerate the throttle, you should see and hear the car actually shift. (it may be stuck in second already or transmission is too tight that your motor can't get to high enough RPMs under load to actually make it shift) the SLX1 if very smooth so pay close attention.

Pull the 2speed and check the shoe gap. This is the gap between the actual shoes and the 2gear housing. This gap is critical to good performance. The shoes should be as close to the housing as possible but still allowing the 2nd gear housing to spin freely. The shoe gap is adjusted by the set screws on the shoes (not the set screws with springs) also note that these are the same screws that adjust the play between the shoes and the shaft. Little to no play between the shaft and shoes will provide a long lasting transmission.

Adjust the tension screws evenly at all times and make equal adjustments to each side. Trying both directions (turning right tightens the screw to provide later shift, left turn loosen to allow earlier shifting) till you get the car to shift on the box.
The manuals 3.5 turns out is a basic starting point, but shift points are different depending on the engine and clutch setup being used under load.

Modification of the 2nd gear housing can be made to make for quick on the fly adjustments to the tension screws without having to pull the whole transmission everytime. It does require a narrow shaft 2.0mm ball end driver. But will save you lots of time and effort.

Getting it to shift off load on the box will be your starting point, then you can adjust accordingly to the track or personal preference under load.
* it's extremely important to know that the adjustments should be made a 1/4 - 1/8 turns at a time*

Hope this helps

Nafspeed

Thank you Tony for taking your time to help me out. This is Farouk from LimeRc. "Nafspeed" is my son's driving name. I opened the transmission today and checked all that you indicated. Gap is ok. Took clutch apart and checked screws, pins, shaft and springs for damage. None found. Cleaned and put back together. I had purchased this car slightly used. One thing I noticed though - the shift point springs that are on the clutch are thicker than the ones in the original Serpent pack #804371. So I replaced with the new thinner ones. As Dan Vector indicated in a previous post, I also cleaned one way bearing with nitro fuel 3 times and rolled on shaft to clean and applied one drop one way oil. Also lightly sanded shaft where bearing rests. Haven't tried the car as yet but hoping to do so tomorrow. will let you know. Also, could you or anyone else check my setup posted previously and advise of any changes to be made. Engine being used is Fx K5 DC combo with 2108 pipe and 659704 manifold. OS RP#6 plug and Maxima 25/9 fuel.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I have some different techniques with transmissions but maybe this will help. Nitro fuel has castor oil in it which is a lubricant so i would not want that residue on the bearing. Clean the one way bearing with carb cleaner and then apply your one way oil or grease ( i use kyosho ball dif grease and have for years). i dont recommend sanding the shaft at all, thats what the one way bearing uses for grip so it does not slip. if that surface isnt PERFECTLY round it will slip and it will also slip if that surface is too rough.

Serpent made a running change wiht the 2spd housing and they now come with the adjustment hole already predrilled for you so you dont have to modify anymore, and The new 2 spd shoes have also been update and are much better and more reliable.

Nafspeed

I have some different techniques with transmissions but maybe this will help. Nitro fuel has castor oil in it which is a lubricant so i would not want that residue on the bearing. Clean the one way bearing with carb cleaner and then apply your one way oil or grease ( i use kyosho ball dif grease and have for years). i dont recommend sanding the shaft at all, thats what the one way bearing uses for grip so it does not slip. if that surface isnt PERFECTLY round it will slip and it will also slip if that surface is too rough.

Serpent made a running change wiht the 2spd housing and they now come with the adjustment hole already predrilled for you so you dont have to modify anymore, and The new 2 spd shoes have also been update and are much better and more reliable.


Wow, she shifts. Did what you said Marcus and shifting like a greased monkey. Also adjusted grub screw for clutch to be as close as possible to housing without binding and adjusted shift point screw in small increments out. works like a charm. Noticed the spring that was originally on the clutch was thicker than the new one #804371. Could this have contributed to the problem? Also using the new housing with the holes predrilled but had to do some reaming to work. Also painted shift pt screws 2 different colours so I wouldn't adjust the same screw twice. This clutch was built with the grub screws from the outside. Next clutch I will try the mod from the inside. Thanks also to Tony.