Team Corally RDX Phi
#2881
i just talked to corally to find out what i had and it looks like i have a couple of first gen and a couple of sec gen and parts for both so i may have been using the wrong nut we will rebuild and then give it a go
now i know why i own a corally the customer service is A+ and why i come to this site you guys are awesome
thanks
now i know why i own a corally the customer service is A+ and why i come to this site you guys are awesome
thanks
#2882
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I haven't been keeping up with the latest stuff, so sorry if this has been asked before. But do I need the lipo tray for an IP 3800 running a 13.5? Last time I ran the car about a year ago I ran 6 cell and there was talk of using the offset motor mount. Do I need that or not running the 3800 Lipo?
Thanks,
Chad
Thanks,
Chad
#2883
I haven't been keeping up with the latest stuff, so sorry if this has been asked before. But do I need the lipo tray for an IP 3800 running a 13.5? Last time I ran the car about a year ago I ran 6 cell and there was talk of using the offset motor mount. Do I need that or not running the 3800 Lipo?
Thanks,
Chad
Thanks,
Chad
I previously ran the Orion 3800 lipo with both motor mounts on my Phi cars for asphalt and carpet. IMO the offset motor mount ($95?) was a fairly minor improvement to the standard bracket. Depending on your electronics and their placement, you will need to have 105-115 grams of weight on the outer side of the 3800 pack to balance the car side-to-side.
Later went with the SMC 5000 and the OFFSET BATTERY MOUNT ($45?). This was a major improvement and has remained my best option to date.
Bill
#2884
what do the new hubs look like ?
#2885
ultra short wheelbase with stock pulleys
hey guys,
is there any rear belt from other manufacturers that fits the 42/21 pulleys at ultra short wheelbase configuration (I think the belt should be 195mm or 198mm length according to my amateur measuring ) ??
thanks!
is there any rear belt from other manufacturers that fits the 42/21 pulleys at ultra short wheelbase configuration (I think the belt should be 195mm or 198mm length according to my amateur measuring ) ??
thanks!
#2886
Here are a few pics of the new uprights
Tom,
I have to agree with Brad the 08 diffs are by far the best upgrade you can do. I built mine over two months ago with ceramic balls . Havent had to touch them and I run around 2 to 3 times a week. Have you installed a flange bearing and remove the old thrust in the older diffs?
Tom,
I have to agree with Brad the 08 diffs are by far the best upgrade you can do. I built mine over two months ago with ceramic balls . Havent had to touch them and I run around 2 to 3 times a week. Have you installed a flange bearing and remove the old thrust in the older diffs?
#2887
Kenny thanks for the pics. Do you think the new hubs are stronger then the stock ones?
#2888
Way stronger they have about 1mm more material around them where they used to bend
#2889
kenny i rebuilt the diff with the right nut and tested last night and it still came loose so im thinking of putting some rdx diffs in for now that i have in my box so i can at least finish a race.
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
#2890
kenny i rebuilt the diff with the right nut and tested last night and it still came loose so im thinking of putting some rdx diffs in for now that i have in my box so i can at least finish a race.
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
change it for a new one and if you want extra safety apply a drop of thread lock when building, but use a light thread lock and I suggest you to have the 7mm diff wrench otherwise you will suffer to take it apart next time........
#2891
kenny i rebuilt the diff with the right nut and tested last night and it still came loose so im thinking of putting some rdx diffs in for now that i have in my box so i can at least finish a race.
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
Tom,
Use a 1/4x3/8 flanged with cone washer facing (nut after. You dont need to shim it like posted before found works much better without any shims between cone and bearing. As always coat thread with loctite then whipe off any extra that is over threads. Build diffs at least 6 hrs before racing to get best use out of loctite if not the night before. I ran my diffs like this in vegas and they where money before I switched to the 08 diffs.
hope this helps
#2892
I have been running the stock diffs with the bearing and red cone washer with no problem for 2 yrs. I did put ca glue on the threds of the one side of the diff, I let it sit for about 5min then built them up. Try not to over tighten them or you will strip the diff nut.
#2893
I just started racing again I have the CEFX chassis and the Stock chassis Does Corally make a think foam chassis? I never put the CEFX Chassis on because I have the Corally weights and there no holes on the CEFX chassis for them...
#2894
Corally foam chassis. http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SRC79838!SRC
Photo at this link. Post 11 or just search for specialized.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=246679
Photo at this link. Post 11 or just search for specialized.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=246679
#2895
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Christopher