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Old 12-30-2008, 02:49 PM   #2881
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i just talked to corally to find out what i had and it looks like i have a couple of first gen and a couple of sec gen and parts for both so i may have been using the wrong nut we will rebuild and then give it a go

now i know why i own a corally the customer service is A+ and why i come to this site you guys are awesome

thanks
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:37 PM   #2882
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I haven't been keeping up with the latest stuff, so sorry if this has been asked before. But do I need the lipo tray for an IP 3800 running a 13.5? Last time I ran the car about a year ago I ran 6 cell and there was talk of using the offset motor mount. Do I need that or not running the 3800 Lipo?

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Old 12-30-2008, 10:19 PM   #2883
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Originally Posted by Scrad View Post
I haven't been keeping up with the latest stuff, so sorry if this has been asked before. But do I need the lipo tray for an IP 3800 running a 13.5? Last time I ran the car about a year ago I ran 6 cell and there was talk of using the offset motor mount. Do I need that or not running the 3800 Lipo?

Thanks,
Chad
Chad,

I previously ran the Orion 3800 lipo with both motor mounts on my Phi cars for asphalt and carpet. IMO the offset motor mount ($95?) was a fairly minor improvement to the standard bracket. Depending on your electronics and their placement, you will need to have 105-115 grams of weight on the outer side of the 3800 pack to balance the car side-to-side.

Later went with the SMC 5000 and the OFFSET BATTERY MOUNT ($45?). This was a major improvement and has remained my best option to date.

Bill
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:55 PM   #2884
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what do the new hubs look like ?
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:17 AM   #2885
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Default ultra short wheelbase with stock pulleys

hey guys,

is there any rear belt from other manufacturers that fits the 42/21 pulleys at ultra short wheelbase configuration (I think the belt should be 195mm or 198mm length according to my amateur measuring ) ??


thanks!
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:53 AM   #2886
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Here are a few pics of the new uprights




Tom,
I have to agree with Brad the 08 diffs are by far the best upgrade you can do. I built mine over two months ago with ceramic balls . Havent had to touch them and I run around 2 to 3 times a week. Have you installed a flange bearing and remove the old thrust in the older diffs?
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:38 AM   #2887
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Kenny thanks for the pics. Do you think the new hubs are stronger then the stock ones?
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:57 AM   #2888
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Way stronger they have about 1mm more material around them where they used to bend
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:12 PM   #2889
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kenny i rebuilt the diff with the right nut and tested last night and it still came loose so im thinking of putting some rdx diffs in for now that i have in my box so i can at least finish a race.
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:44 PM   #2890
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Quote:
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kenny i rebuilt the diff with the right nut and tested last night and it still came loose so im thinking of putting some rdx diffs in for now that i have in my box so i can at least finish a race.
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size
I think the nylon lok of the M4 nut has gone.......

change it for a new one and if you want extra safety apply a drop of thread lock when building, but use a light thread lock and I suggest you to have the 7mm diff wrench otherwise you will suffer to take it apart next time........
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:02 PM   #2891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom235 View Post
kenny i rebuilt the diff with the right nut and tested last night and it still came loose so im thinking of putting some rdx diffs in for now that i have in my box so i can at least finish a race.
i didnt know you could take that that thrust bearing out and replace it with a bearing do you have a size

Tom,
Use a 1/4x3/8 flanged with cone washer facing (nut after. You dont need to shim it like posted before found works much better without any shims between cone and bearing. As always coat thread with loctite then whipe off any extra that is over threads. Build diffs at least 6 hrs before racing to get best use out of loctite if not the night before. I ran my diffs like this in vegas and they where money before I switched to the 08 diffs.
hope this helps
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:43 PM   #2892
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I have been running the stock diffs with the bearing and red cone washer with no problem for 2 yrs. I did put ca glue on the threds of the one side of the diff, I let it sit for about 5min then built them up. Try not to over tighten them or you will strip the diff nut.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:48 PM   #2893
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I just started racing again I have the CEFX chassis and the Stock chassis Does Corally make a think foam chassis? I never put the CEFX Chassis on because I have the Corally weights and there no holes on the CEFX chassis for them...
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:34 PM   #2894
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Corally foam chassis. http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SRC79838!SRC

Photo at this link. Post 11 or just search for specialized.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=246679
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:42 PM   #2895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BQRacer View Post
Kenny thanks for the pics. Do you think the new hubs are stronger then the stock ones?
There is a Specialized RC (SRC79295) version of these as well. They have a touch more material then the Corally version. I'm using those and can say I broke 4 ball cups hitting the boards and they haven't bent yet. I don't think they make them anymore though.

Christopher

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