The Big Wig

But which 1? mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils.aspx

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-b..._ID=rs_540rhsh

It's more tech specs than visual specs, however.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

My bottle just says Mobil 1 5wt. Gray bottle, black label.

Rodrigo360

iTrader: (-1)

Hi,
I purchase 2 mabuchi motors and without break-in these are the specs:

1: 11.100rpm - 1.05A at 5V
2: 10.900rpm - 1.32A at 5V

Why the difference on power consumption? What I'm searching with break-in?
What I need, hi or low current??

Thanks

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

That's good old silvercan for you.
In classes like f1 you WILL see some slight rpm difference on the track.(although 100 to 200 difference is not that bad).
540j,is like a blind date..some are good some are..well you get the idea.
Folks with $$ tend to buy them by the batch and weed out the duds....

I have tried water dip and free air break in .
I prefer water dip at 3 volts for about 3 min.
You need to closely watch the water and make sure it does not turn dark
during this process.
When you are done, look at the brush to com contact and make sure the brush is seated on the com. oil the bushing and test again.

On my phantom dyno I usually get from 11400 to 12000 at 5v after a dip.

Rodrigo360

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks, but I need to know what is the optimal current consumption for the motors for free spinning on the dyno.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

There is no optimal. The higher amp draw and lower RPM could indicate no oil or slight binding on the shaft. You could run both, clean both and the amp draw could flip flop. With the newer CS brushed silvercans the voltage test is usually 7.2 not 5v which will give you more information of what your motors are doing.

The best test is the track and getting laptimes. A strong motor on the bench could be weak on the track. Which is why it is good to leave the lipo in the car, get some hot laps on motor #1, then switch to motor #2.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

+1, especially when dealing with brand new motors right out of the box. Amp draw is not necessarily an indicator of motor performance, as A-Ko as pointed out. Break 'em in either way until the brush faces are straight up and down against the comm, then test one against the other, keeping a close eye on motor temp (160 is ideal, 140 too low, 180 too high) and adjusting gearing as required..

mtsb4

Just to confirm, when you say 140, 160, 180 you are talking fahrenheit?

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Yes, that is correct.

nicorozog

Hey ... which is the difference between 380 Tamiya Motor Silver Can, and 540 Tamiya Motor Silver can?....

Thanks a lot!

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

The actual size of the motor. 380 is smaller, 540 is 'standard'.

380's are made to fit smaller motor mounts, are slower and have less torque.

Laguna Bozo

Guess this is pretty much a lost thread, uh Doc...too bad.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Not so bad. We've actually been slammed all year with orders from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, South America and Europe. Just sent a box off to Malaysia.

The USA might not be as enamored of fast silver cans as they used to be, but the rest of the world is still in love with 'em.

KAHUNA

iTrader: (10)

I was looking to get a Red Dot who would I have to contact .


thx

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