Tamiya F103 Forum
#1231
#1232
I've just converted my F103 to LiPo power and am wondering what you guys have done to get back lost traction in the rear due to the lighter battery? Our track is very low grip for these cars so the guys who are running the 103 with LiPo have been adding weight to the rear. I'm hoping I can get by with another solution.
Out here we are running on untreated asphalt with rubber tires again and although grip is at a premium weight, and after experimenting with added weight I have found that it did more harm than good.
First you you are going to want to use the o-ring suspension with the soft t-bar locked down with a washer in front and the rear o-ring set just tight enough to keep it from swaying. lighten the lube on your damper discs to something in the 3-7K diff lube range (much softer than tam soft) and go with the red center spring and TAPE your battery in.
Both the block and link front ends with either inline or trailing axles will work well, pick the one your most comfortable with.
Mark
#1233
Tech Champion
I'm considering it myself as well. It does look really nice but I'm leery about the t-plate being weak where it bolts to the rear hinge. Let me know if you do get it.
#1234
Tech Champion
Also,try stiffer front springs or a harder front tire.
Get the front to have "just enough" steering and see if
the back hooks up any better. If at that point it is still
hooking try some weight/axle. If you are running
silver cans and foams you should be able to get it to hook up ok
on a slick surface.
Get the front to have "just enough" steering and see if
the back hooks up any better. If at that point it is still
hooking try some weight/axle. If you are running
silver cans and foams you should be able to get it to hook up ok
on a slick surface.
#1235
Tech Champion
Out here we are running on untreated asphalt with rubber tires again and although grip is at a premium weight, and after experimenting with added weight I have found that it did more harm than good.
First you you are going to want to use the o-ring suspension with the soft t-bar locked down with a washer in front and the rear o-ring set just tight enough to keep it from swaying. lighten the lube on your damper discs to something in the 3-7K diff lube range (much softer than tam soft) and go with the red center spring and TAPE your battery in.
Both the block and link front ends with either inline or trailing axles will work well, pick the one your most comfortable with.
Mark
First you you are going to want to use the o-ring suspension with the soft t-bar locked down with a washer in front and the rear o-ring set just tight enough to keep it from swaying. lighten the lube on your damper discs to something in the 3-7K diff lube range (much softer than tam soft) and go with the red center spring and TAPE your battery in.
Both the block and link front ends with either inline or trailing axles will work well, pick the one your most comfortable with.
Mark
If I get a chance I'll try the o-ring suspension out.
Has anyone tried those Pit Shimzu medium rubber tires yet?
#1236
Interesting...I've always found the pivot ball suspension with the soft t-plate to have more grip than the o-ring suspension. Currently running no lube on the damper discs. And the CRC 1/12th scale shock with the light weight black spring.
If I get a chance I'll try the o-ring suspension out.
Has anyone tried those Pit Shimzu medium rubber tires yet?
If I get a chance I'll try the o-ring suspension out.
Has anyone tried those Pit Shimzu medium rubber tires yet?
The problem with the ball pivot rear suspension is that it eliminates all side load dampening unless you put tweak screws in that give it abrupt tension and breaking the car loose.
you will want a little lube on the damper dics to keep the movement smooth so it doesnt stick in spots as it moves. As for the crc shock it should work fine but 'm not sure what wt oil & spring would work out. If you have the std tamiya hop-up shock for the car throw it on with 30wt oil & 3hole psting & the std spring.
At out first race of the season our old 103s were clearly better than the 104s, F10s and F109s in the field.
#1237
The camber steering blocks are nice, but the rest of the kit not so much.
The t-bar setup has a tendency to get sticky at the mount and the t-bar is too stiff. Liker the tamiya ball pivot, the yeah one just doesnt work as well at the std o-ring system.
When it comes to hop-ups I would recommend the carbon chassis, soft t-bar, yeah racing steering blocks, alloy motor mount, tamiya F1 shock, and the F104 Pro axle setup.
If you want to try something different the kawada conversion & rolling suspension kit look interesting.
Mark
The t-bar setup has a tendency to get sticky at the mount and the t-bar is too stiff. Liker the tamiya ball pivot, the yeah one just doesnt work as well at the std o-ring system.
When it comes to hop-ups I would recommend the carbon chassis, soft t-bar, yeah racing steering blocks, alloy motor mount, tamiya F1 shock, and the F104 Pro axle setup.
If you want to try something different the kawada conversion & rolling suspension kit look interesting.
Mark
#1238
Tech Champion
Well I am running the pit tires since I want able to find any A or B compound tamiya tires and the pit med front / soft rear seems to be the best combo so far. I have also tried the TRG tires but they have stiffer sidewalls w/ less side bite.
The problem with the ball pivot rear suspension is that it eliminates all side load dampening unless you put tweak screws in that give it abrupt tension and breaking the car loose.
you will want a little lube on the damper dics to keep the movement smooth so it doesnt stick in spots as it moves. As for the crc shock it should work fine but 'm not sure what wt oil & spring would work out. If you have the std tamiya hop-up shock for the car throw it on with 30wt oil & 3hole psting & the std spring.
At out first race of the season our old 103s were clearly better than the 104s, F10s and F109s in the field.
The problem with the ball pivot rear suspension is that it eliminates all side load dampening unless you put tweak screws in that give it abrupt tension and breaking the car loose.
you will want a little lube on the damper dics to keep the movement smooth so it doesnt stick in spots as it moves. As for the crc shock it should work fine but 'm not sure what wt oil & spring would work out. If you have the std tamiya hop-up shock for the car throw it on with 30wt oil & 3hole psting & the std spring.
At out first race of the season our old 103s were clearly better than the 104s, F10s and F109s in the field.
Well the grip today with LiPo seemed better in general than it had in the last race but still not up to par with the F104s and F109s (Running F104 tires) so I'm thinking the problem is my old tires. Do you know anywhere that has the Pit tires and some rims to mount them on? I checked at RC mart and they had the Pit tires but the only rims they listed were for foam tires. I'm debating on the softness...I remember back in the day Tamiya and Ride tires weren't really a hard or soft tire but a hot or cold tire. A compound was good in the cooler weather while B compound was the tire for hotter weather. A tires while technically softer would get super greasy in hot weather so you would get no grip at all while Bs would be like driving rocks in the cold. So I'm thinking medium all around for the Pits.
#1239
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Tire Wars
Tires are the key to grip for rubber on asphalt and it seems that every surface and condition likes different tires. In a recent parking lot race, I noticed that Ride super softs worked well on part of the track, but Tamiya soft options worked better for a couple of other corners. The choice comes down to which compromise fits your driving style.
I'm going to keep adding tire options as I can afford them and do a lot of practice testing at each track. Every time I've tried to predict which tire would be better, I was wrong.
Regarding setup, soft and flexible are the way to go for rubber on asphalt. Soft spring, light lube on bottom only, no extra weight, plenty of droop.
I'm going to keep adding tire options as I can afford them and do a lot of practice testing at each track. Every time I've tried to predict which tire would be better, I was wrong.
Regarding setup, soft and flexible are the way to go for rubber on asphalt. Soft spring, light lube on bottom only, no extra weight, plenty of droop.
#1240
You can mount the pit tires on the tamiya foam rims, just be patient and they'll come out fine.
Mark
Mark
#1242
Anybody running a 1/12 servo in your 103?
If so are you standing it up or mounting it normal with some shims under it?
A pic would be cool.
Thanks
If so are you standing it up or mounting it normal with some shims under it?
A pic would be cool.
Thanks
#1243
F1 & 24 Minutes Le Mans at TQ Sat 5/6/2010
From this weekend, we will have Sunday Club Race.
We have UF1 Series on June 5th, Saturday.
11:00 doors open
1:30 sign ups end
2:00 first 10 minute qualifier (no more than 10 drivers per qual)
2:20 second qualifier
3:00 first 8 minute round (B group)
3:20 second 8 minute round (A group)
3:45 third 8 minute round (B group)
4:05 fourth 8 minute round (A group)
4:30 fifth 8 minute round (B group)
4:50 sixth 8 minute round (A group)
We have UF1 Series on June 5th, Saturday.
11:00 doors open
1:30 sign ups end
2:00 first 10 minute qualifier (no more than 10 drivers per qual)
2:20 second qualifier
3:00 first 8 minute round (B group)
3:20 second 8 minute round (A group)
3:45 third 8 minute round (B group)
4:05 fourth 8 minute round (A group)
4:30 fifth 8 minute round (B group)
4:50 sixth 8 minute round (A group)
I installed 21.5 in the "C" group hoping the battery will get me to the finish line.
This will be the our 2nd Le Mans run, bring your cars
Cheers!
Marcos
#1244
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
RIDE's tires and wheels are in stock now !!
Click here to check out.
You can order online @ www.tqrcracing.com
Thanks.
Click here to check out.
You can order online @ www.tqrcracing.com
Thanks.
Last edited by spring71; 06-02-2010 at 09:14 AM.
#1245
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tween a Rock & a Hard Place in Pa.
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