Tamiya TRF417
#5117
Got a question about batteries for a V5. The most powerful batteries would supply more power but what about the extra weight for the larger lipos?
Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
#5119
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Got a question about batteries for a V5. The most powerful batteries would supply more power but what about the extra weight for the larger lipos?
Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
#5120
I own a variety of Lipos, which differ about 20 grams in weight. I usually use one of the "medium weight" ones to balance the car and leave it at that.
BTW, yesterday I found a nice solution for my new Raceberry chassis, when I reused the 417X belt tensioner as a battery holder and for balance adjustment. Since the Raceberry chassis doesn't allow for the 417X kits center battery holder to be installed (screw hole missing), I searched for a possibility to fix the center alignment of the battery. I took the kits belt tensioner, which is usually installed on the top deck and put it on the lower deck of the chassis. By adding shims (in my case 1.5mm were fit) I can now adjust the centering of the battery to balance the car, additionally to still adjusting belt tension. When adding shims, it's important to add the shims to the outside (screw head side) and use shims that have a smaller outer diameter then the bearings. By this, the bearings stay at the right position and still rotate freely. I also replaced the default 12mm button head screw with a 16mm flat head to make room for the added shim and to have a flat surface facing the battery.
As I noticed, the belt now lighly scrubbed on the lower side of the steering assembly. I put 2mm shims under the steering posts to allow for enough belt clearance, which also makes the steering links more level. That seems to be a good thing to me. I never understood why they were built to be so inclined in the first place... >:-)
Please see the attached images for illustration. Ooops, my car looks so dirty, where's that dammned photoshop...
Christian
Last edited by skyball; 04-22-2013 at 06:02 AM. Reason: added joke
#5121
ok, so basically is it best to weigh the motor esc etc on that side of the car and get a battery which is closest to that weight for the other side?
#5122
So, you can balance a car with different weights on the right and left side by moving weights nearer to or further from the longitudinal center, just as you can balance a seesaw if the heavier kid sits nearer to the pivot point.
That said, it's still easiest and best to have approximately the same weight left and right, but with "the usual rc components" you can easily adjust balance by moving the battery further in or out of the chassis center.
That's what I could achieve using different shims on my belt tensioner in my last post. If I change my electronics (servo, receiver, ESC, motor) I can easily regain balance by adjusting my battery position.
Hope that was understandable.
Christian
#5123
yep, thanks Skyball! But i suppose it is beneficial to initially have a battery with as closest weight to the components so less weights to be added and less mucking around to achieve correct or as close to balance?
#5124
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
You have the right idea but the thing is, the battery even if the same weight as all the electronics, will still need to be adjusted to get even left right balance. It really isnt a neccesity to buy a battery based on that criteria. No weight needs to be added unless the whole car (ready to race with shell on) is underweight.
#5125
#5126
Tech Regular
Im looking at doing some 17.5 blinky racing can anyone confirm a small spur that fines ok and get get around 3.2 gearing on a 417v5? Never done blinky racing before :-S
Cheers
Cheers
#5127
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,307
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I run a 3.88 with about a 90,92,94 64p spur
#5128
I have a used raceberry set for sale.
PM if you are interested.
PM if you are interested.
#5130
Tech Adept
i've been racing carpet/rubber for about 5 years, and this summer for the first time we're going to be running an ashpalt series (parking lot, swept, light prep, etc...).
I've gotten pretty good at dialing in the setups of my car for my style on carpet, i'm wondering what i can expect as differences on ashpalt. mainly traction, i'm thinking it should go up (we have a cold indoor track, hard tires, 15+ year old carpet) should i get more oversteer/understeer, etc? thanks!
I've gotten pretty good at dialing in the setups of my car for my style on carpet, i'm wondering what i can expect as differences on ashpalt. mainly traction, i'm thinking it should go up (we have a cold indoor track, hard tires, 15+ year old carpet) should i get more oversteer/understeer, etc? thanks!