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Tamiya TRF417

Old 05-08-2013, 07:59 PM
  #5266  
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Anyone use a center oneway? What are the benefits for carpet?
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:32 PM
  #5267  
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Originally Posted by SS LS1
After looking close up at a Raceberry chassis and seeing the top deck is not connected to the Yok motor mount I tried to duplicate it.

I installed .5mm spacers between the top deck and all bulkhead screws (front and rear). Then I put A small piece of foam servo tape on the underside of the top deck directly over the 2 layshaft bearings to keep the spur gear from rocking up and down under throttle. There are no screws attaching the top deck to the motor mount now (and a .5mm gap between them) allowing more flex in the rear of the chassis much like the Raceberry kit.

I also removed the front chassis-to-motor mount screw and installed a longer one in the same location but from the top side of the motor mount down into the chassis hole. Same concept as removing the factory screw and installing a stud like the team drivers do. This helped noticeably to increase rear chassis flex also.

I only ran this setup one race day (before our season ended this year) but on the same track layout I ran my personal best lap times that were .2 sec faster with this setup. Hope it works for you too.
I noticed this also and came up with a smilar idea to yours a little while ago. Ive raised the top deck with 3mm shims and cut some 0.5mm suspension block spacers to lock down the spur gear and then secured it down with screws, problem is there isn't allot of room for the topdeck to flex and the belts could potentially rub on the topdeck. I think even with foam it will still move under flex so you might not be getting the best results. I'm Currentely in the process of making some low profile screws so the top deck can be lowered while still having a large gap to flex between the motor mount. Ive been running the grub screw in the motor mount basically since I first ran the v5, this alone helped.
If you look at the bd7, there is a large gap for the top deck to flex without hitting anything
I haven't had a chance to test it yet, iv'e been too busy with school, but im even more excited to try it now after hearing your results ill post pics and results soon! I also suggest you get your front rear and left right balance within 10 grams of eachother by moving the battery weight stopper further out, this will improve the handling consistency of the car with the new flex
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:56 PM
  #5268  
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I might also put the X motor mount on, for a little more space to work with!
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:10 AM
  #5269  
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Ordered a v5 2.25mm chassis plate and 2mm V5 top deck today for my 417x. Be interesting to see what the difference is in the way it drives
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:54 PM
  #5270  
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Have a look at the upper deck modification from the worlds in kentechs blog. Tamiya also have flat screws.

Greetings
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:15 AM
  #5271  
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Just building the v5. The diff oil is actually a little clear bottle of 900 damper oil. So is Tamiya's Diff and damper oil the same thing?
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rayrush
Just building the v5. The diff oil is actually a little clear bottle of 900 damper oil. So is Tamiya's Diff and damper oil the same thing?
it's all just silicone oil
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:42 AM
  #5273  
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Originally Posted by Tremor24
Would you recommend this setup for sweep 28s as well? Paragon black can is the only traction compound we can use as well. I've been fighting between oversteer on power and understeer off power on this track.

I'm using:
front:
Tamiya white springs, 35wt associated oil, hole 3 on the tower, 4mm inner camber spacer, BB block, .5mm under rear of front (anti-squat), medium sway

Rear:
Tamiya blue springs, 35wt, hole 3on the tower, 3mm inner camber spacer, xa and e blocks, .5mm under both suspension blocks, thin sway.

So far I have tried (not all at once) lowering the inner camber links 1mm, removing the rear sway bar, and softening to blue/yellow springs amount other things, but have not been able to find a middle ground between being loose, understeer, and still maintaining corner speed. Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone cut the front of the top deck on the V5 with success?

FYI, this is for 4.5 with a spool.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
I've never tried to use 4.5T, but i used it for 10,5T and it works
(tamiya white spring, blue dot for front, yellow for rear) 350cst shock oil for front and rear shock, 5/5,5 ride height, 5,5/4,5 droop, 1,5/2,5 chamber
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:58 PM
  #5274  
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[QUOTE]it's all just silicone oil/QUOTE]

Ok, thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:01 PM
  #5275  
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Ok, thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:11 PM
  #5276  
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Hey guys when building the new v5 gear diff is everyone still sanding the main gears down like in jiles video or building it as per the manual. Thanks
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:31 AM
  #5277  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Hey guys when building the new v5 gear diff is everyone still sanding the main gears down like in jiles video or building it as per the manual. Thanks
Follow the video this will give the smoothest diff
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:14 AM
  #5278  
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Originally Posted by narcotiks
I noticed this also and came up with a smilar idea to yours a little while ago. Ive raised the top deck with 3mm shims and cut some 0.5mm suspension block spacers to lock down the spur gear and then secured it down with screws, problem is there isn't allot of room for the topdeck to flex and the belts could potentially rub on the topdeck. I think even with foam it will still move under flex so you might not be getting the best results. I'm Currentely in the process of making some low profile screws so the top deck can be lowered while still having a large gap to flex between the motor mount. Ive been running the grub screw in the motor mount basically since I first ran the v5, this alone helped.
If you look at the bd7, there is a large gap for the top deck to flex without hitting anything
I haven't had a chance to test it yet, iv'e been too busy with school, but im even more excited to try it now after hearing your results ill post pics and results soon! I also suggest you get your front rear and left right balance within 10 grams of eachother by moving the battery weight stopper further out, this will improve the handling consistency of the car with the new flex
I agree and understand what you did, I was just looking to for a quick 10-15 minute change in an attempt to gain some more rear chassis flex the night before our last race of the season. Unfortunately our carpet season is done now until this fall and there is no outdoor on road racing around here so the project is shelved for now.

Somewhere I saw your setup using a suspension block shim to secure the lay-shaft bearings. (good idea) I just did not have the time or the right screw to try that exact setup. So I went with a much thinner spacer on the bulkhead that was close to the thickness of 3M foam based servo tape just to see if the rear flex was affected and it definitely was. Far from ideal I know, but it was just a little experiment to try in pre-race practice that would also be quickly reversible before racing started if I did not like the results. But it worked well and I ran it for the races that day with positive results.

I would like to try a greater spacer for more clearance over the motor mount like you did but I also got to ask how much is really needed to feel a difference? Here are my thoughts.....

While at your pit table you can easily twist your chassis by hand and get a 1/4"+ deflection at the extreme chassis corners. While that same twisting torque generates no where near as much deflection in the center of the chassis where the top deck is moving in relation to the motor mount IMO. What I mean is the measurable chassis flex deflection is greater at the outside edges than close to the center line of the chassis. And I don't think the cornering grip forces generate anywhere near 1/4" chassis corner deflection while racing on the track. Thus how much clearance do we really need between the motor mount and the top deck to make a noticeable difference?

For example look at how little clearance there is between the V5 floating servo setup and the outer edges of the chassis plate where deflection would be the greatest. It is not that much so I would conclude that you would need even less between the motor mount and top deck due to being close to the center line of the chassis. Sound like a reasonable assumption?

This fall I will explore more top deck to motor mount clearance to see if the effects are noticeable on the track. One idea is to use a suspension block shim and rather than put a screw vertical into the mount to secure it would be to bend the end of the shim 90 deg and run a screw horizontal into the mount after drilling and tapping a hole into it. The idea is to have less bulk added to the top of the motor mount so the top deck does not need to be raised up so much causing belt rub interference. I have not really explored this idea yet so it may not work.

One thing to note is that I am trying this on my USGT 417x chassis and bulkheads and not on a V5 chassis. If it proves to work well I will transfer the concept to my other cars.

Not disagreeing with what you are trying, good discussion topic and I appreciate your input on your findings narcotiks.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:37 PM
  #5279  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Hey guys when building the new v5 gear diff is everyone still sanding the main gears down like in jiles video or building it as per the manual. Thanks
Yes, build it Jilles' way. I didn't at first and went through three sets of gears. Today I ran the car ALL DAY after building it with his method... and I run a 4.0 in modified! Success!
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:31 PM
  #5280  
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Where can I find the new 3.5mm blades?? Or will blades from another car work??
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