10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
05-22-2013, 02:04 PM
#3887
Hay Ryan
I have a question regarding the new setup. On the bump steering: you said ball down on inside. Isn't that the way the manual says or is it different? I have the ball down (built in washer stand off on ball, UP) on the bell crank and the opposite on the spindle (ball up and washer stand off on ball, Down).
Can you explain how to change the bump steer and what that would do to the truck? Do I change it at the spindle or do I flip the ball over on the bell crank?
Regarding the droop and shock length; Can you measure the overall shock length at full droop on your truck? I have mine setup at 88mm in the front and 100mm in the rear. I set my shocks on the Losi shock length gauge.
Thanks for all your help. I have only ran my truck indoors up until now and I am currently sitting here thinking of what I have to or need to do to my truck to run outdoors this weekend. Any advise would greatly be appreciated.
I have a question regarding the new setup. On the bump steering: you said ball down on inside. Isn't that the way the manual says or is it different? I have the ball down (built in washer stand off on ball, UP) on the bell crank and the opposite on the spindle (ball up and washer stand off on ball, Down).
Can you explain how to change the bump steer and what that would do to the truck? Do I change it at the spindle or do I flip the ball over on the bell crank?
Regarding the droop and shock length; Can you measure the overall shock length at full droop on your truck? I have mine setup at 88mm in the front and 100mm in the rear. I set my shocks on the Losi shock length gauge.
Thanks for all your help. I have only ran my truck indoors up until now and I am currently sitting here thinking of what I have to or need to do to my truck to run outdoors this weekend. Any advise would greatly be appreciated.
05-22-2013, 02:13 PM
#3888
Originally Posted by hac2178954
Hey guys, been fiddling around with a new setup for my SCTE 2.0 after doing some "other" testing on another platform we have.
05-22-2013, 02:37 PM
#3889
05-22-2013, 03:33 PM
#3890
Hi all,
Considering getting a 4wd SC just for the nationals this year (I am already entered in e buggy)...as its a one off I have to admit the scte 1.0 race roller is very attractive at $230 at Amain! So my questions are:
1. How much better is the 2.0
2. Is there a feasible upgrade path from 1.0 to 2.0 if I start with the 1.0
3. Am I right in thinking there is no 2.0 race roller?
Thanks!
Considering getting a 4wd SC just for the nationals this year (I am already entered in e buggy)...as its a one off I have to admit the scte 1.0 race roller is very attractive at $230 at Amain! So my questions are:
1. How much better is the 2.0
2. Is there a feasible upgrade path from 1.0 to 2.0 if I start with the 1.0
3. Am I right in thinking there is no 2.0 race roller?
Thanks!
05-22-2013, 03:41 PM
#3891
Adjustable pivot blocks...
Have had a few questions so I am posting this here as well...
The SCTE has 4 aluminum blocks that adjust different things. There are two on the front clip and 2 on the rear clip. The two on the front clip are called the front outer (very front end just behind the bumper) and the front inner (near all the steering bellcranks) and the two in the rear are the rear inner(closest to the battery and motor) and the rear outer (the one sandwiched between the rear bumper and the transmission housing.
So, from the very front of the car to the very back, they should go like this with the new setup…
Front Outer uses a number 1 insert with the hole facing up
Front Inner uses a number 1 insert with the hole facing down
*(these two together give more kick angle and more castor to the vehicle)
Rear Inner uses a number 1 insert with the hole facing up to give 3 degrees of antisquat
Rear Outer uses a number 0 insert giving 3 degrees of toe.
The SCTE has 4 aluminum blocks that adjust different things. There are two on the front clip and 2 on the rear clip. The two on the front clip are called the front outer (very front end just behind the bumper) and the front inner (near all the steering bellcranks) and the two in the rear are the rear inner(closest to the battery and motor) and the rear outer (the one sandwiched between the rear bumper and the transmission housing.
So, from the very front of the car to the very back, they should go like this with the new setup…
Front Outer uses a number 1 insert with the hole facing up
Front Inner uses a number 1 insert with the hole facing down
*(these two together give more kick angle and more castor to the vehicle)
Rear Inner uses a number 1 insert with the hole facing up to give 3 degrees of antisquat
Rear Outer uses a number 0 insert giving 3 degrees of toe.
05-22-2013, 03:45 PM
#3892
Hi all,
Considering getting a 4wd SC just for the nationals this year (I am already entered in e buggy)...as its a one off I have to admit the scte 1.0 race roller is very attractive at $230 at Amain! So my questions are:
1. How much better is the 2.0
2. Is there a feasible upgrade path from 1.0 to 2.0 if I start with the 1.0
3. Am I right in thinking there is no 2.0 race roller?
Thanks!
Considering getting a 4wd SC just for the nationals this year (I am already entered in e buggy)...as its a one off I have to admit the scte 1.0 race roller is very attractive at $230 at Amain! So my questions are:
1. How much better is the 2.0
2. Is there a feasible upgrade path from 1.0 to 2.0 if I start with the 1.0
3. Am I right in thinking there is no 2.0 race roller?
Thanks!
No 2.0 race roller only a kit at this time.
The 2.0 is more stable and flies better is the common feedback.
05-22-2013, 03:50 PM
#3893
Hay Ryan
I have a question regarding the new setup. On the bump steering: you said ball down on inside. Isn't that the way the manual says or is it different? I have the ball down (built in washer stand off on ball, UP) on the bell crank and the opposite on the spindle (ball up and washer stand off on ball, Down).
Can you explain how to change the bump steer and what that would do to the truck? Do I change it at the spindle or do I flip the ball over on the bell crank?
Regarding the droop and shock length; Can you measure the overall shock length at full droop on your truck? I have mine setup at 88mm in the front and 100mm in the rear. I set my shocks on the Losi shock length gauge.
Thanks for all your help. I have only ran my truck indoors up until now and I am currently sitting here thinking of what I have to or need to do to my truck to run outdoors this weekend. Any advise would greatly be appreciated.
I have a question regarding the new setup. On the bump steering: you said ball down on inside. Isn't that the way the manual says or is it different? I have the ball down (built in washer stand off on ball, UP) on the bell crank and the opposite on the spindle (ball up and washer stand off on ball, Down).
Can you explain how to change the bump steer and what that would do to the truck? Do I change it at the spindle or do I flip the ball over on the bell crank?
Regarding the droop and shock length; Can you measure the overall shock length at full droop on your truck? I have mine setup at 88mm in the front and 100mm in the rear. I set my shocks on the Losi shock length gauge.
Thanks for all your help. I have only ran my truck indoors up until now and I am currently sitting here thinking of what I have to or need to do to my truck to run outdoors this weekend. Any advise would greatly be appreciated.
The manual in step B12 does show the ball with the ball up or flange down on the spindle side and the flange up or the ball down on the inside or bellcrank. We typically run the truck with both ends having the ball side up and the flange down. Its something I have negated mentioning in my setups on accident and know it makes a difference so I am trying to get better about this. In reality, I thought the manual had it the way I normally run it and is actually something I missed. All of our RTR vehicles are built the way we typically run it which is both balls up flange down. Thank you for pointing this out.
I don't have it with me to measure right now but I will try to measure it. The front is basically screw the shock ends in all the way and then back them off two full turns. The rear is 1 full turn.
Someone asked about the 2 hole pistons and using those with the 32/30...the car goes through stutter bumps and lands off bigger jumps better with this two hole setup you mention. I haven't had a chance to mess with it though as I was playing with 4 hole pistons and as you can see by my setup, I am running different pistons and oil in the rear than I normally do so I have to assume the 2 hole has to be adjusted as well.
05-22-2013, 05:22 PM
#3894
Ryan
Thanks for the bump steer help. Can you explain what that would do to my truck, just so I can see if I can feel the difference.
Also, would this new setup be good for a med to large outdoor tracks that stays watered or is it strictly for indoors? I'm running for the first time this weekend and wondering is I need to change anything from the book setup.
Thanks for the bump steer help. Can you explain what that would do to my truck, just so I can see if I can feel the difference.
Also, would this new setup be good for a med to large outdoor tracks that stays watered or is it strictly for indoors? I'm running for the first time this weekend and wondering is I need to change anything from the book setup.
05-23-2013, 03:26 AM
#3896
That is what I am running on my truck. Mine gets through the bumps better and lands better but his has more steering. We are going to play with the 2 hole piston setup some more next.
It costs about $200 to get the 2.0 chassis stuff to convert the 1.0. At that point you might as well just get a 2.0 and you get a TON of hopups with the 2.0 you would not have with the converstion.
No 2.0 race roller only a kit at this time.
The 2.0 is more stable and flies better is the common feedback.
It costs about $200 to get the 2.0 chassis stuff to convert the 1.0. At that point you might as well just get a 2.0 and you get a TON of hopups with the 2.0 you would not have with the converstion.
No 2.0 race roller only a kit at this time.
The 2.0 is more stable and flies better is the common feedback.
Hacker, did u add a shim behind the hex on the rear or what did you add to get the hexes out .5mm?
05-23-2013, 05:16 AM
#3897
Tech Initiate
We have finished the build of the bits in the kit. Still need tyres and the rest of the electrics.
This is the first time we have built anything. Never painted a body before hence the simple black.
It went together beautifully and much quicker than expected. The quality of this kit is superb.
[/URL]
Much of it was easy enough for my son to assemble unaided.
[/URL]
The next job is to upgrade the RTR so that there isn't an argument about who gets the 2.0
A huge thank you to all of you who have posted build threads. They helped enormously. A special thanks to the people at TLR and your drivers for the advice you have given.
This is the first time we have built anything. Never painted a body before hence the simple black.
It went together beautifully and much quicker than expected. The quality of this kit is superb.
[/URL]Much of it was easy enough for my son to assemble unaided.
[/URL]The next job is to upgrade the RTR so that there isn't an argument about who gets the 2.0
A huge thank you to all of you who have posted build threads. They helped enormously. A special thanks to the people at TLR and your drivers for the advice you have given.
05-23-2013, 07:50 AM
#3898
Basically we used clutch shims and added them between the drive pin and the hub bearing and this pushes the hext out.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid
Or equivalent.
We have finished the build of the bits in the kit. Still need tyres and the rest of the electrics.
This is the first time we have built anything. Never painted a body before hence the simple black.
It went together beautifully and much quicker than expected. The quality of this kit is superb.
Much of it was easy enough for my son to assemble unaided.
The next job is to upgrade the RTR so that there isn't an argument about who gets the 2.0
A huge thank you to all of you who have posted build threads. They helped enormously. A special thanks to the people at TLR and your drivers for the advice you have given.
This is the first time we have built anything. Never painted a body before hence the simple black.
It went together beautifully and much quicker than expected. The quality of this kit is superb.
Much of it was easy enough for my son to assemble unaided.
The next job is to upgrade the RTR so that there isn't an argument about who gets the 2.0
A huge thank you to all of you who have posted build threads. They helped enormously. A special thanks to the people at TLR and your drivers for the advice you have given.
05-23-2013, 08:02 AM
#3899
I am not sure. We need to play with that a little more. I am going to build a set of shocks like Ryan's setup to test back to back to make sure the extra steering he has is shock related. We will then start testing some more with the 2 hole pistons to see if we can get the steering handling of his setup with the pack benefits of the 2 hole setup.
Basically we used clutch shims and added them between the drive pin and the hub bearing and this pushes the hext out.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid
Or equivalent.
That is awesome. How old is your son. I can't wait until mine gets a little older so he can start wrenching and racing with me. He is 5 right now so I he drives everyonce in a while and is getting the hang of it but another year or two and rookie class here we come!
Basically we used clutch shims and added them between the drive pin and the hub bearing and this pushes the hext out.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid
Or equivalent.
That is awesome. How old is your son. I can't wait until mine gets a little older so he can start wrenching and racing with me. He is 5 right now so I he drives everyonce in a while and is getting the hang of it but another year or two and rookie class here we come!
05-23-2013, 09:20 AM
#3900
Tech Initiate
Building the 2.0 together has been an amazing experience. I am so pleased that the TLR instructions were so clear. It made it easy for him to feel he was in control of the build.
The only trouble he had was screwing some of the screws into the plastic. On occasions I had to pre-thread them. My wife and his teacher at school are both astonished at what he built.