wallyedmonds

i lost a rx with the cover a long time ago in my mtx 3 so it dosent matter,
and plus i dont use a switch so i can plug my batt in easier.
iv hurt about 5 pipes to my one rx in my hole time running nitro tc.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

I dont use a switch nor an extension... I have had bad experience with both... I connect my battery directly to the receiver and I still keep the receiver case there. I just lift it up, plug it in, then place the cover back to its place... The whole time I have had the MTX-4 and MTX-3, I have not faced the situation of the need to replace the receiver case due to using this method...

Roger

iTrader: (10)

Spring: Silver super hard mugen spring tensioned at 9.1mm
Clutch shoe: Gray clutch shoe
Gearing: 59/53, 17/23 - stock gearing that came with the kit. This was the gearing that I used on a particular track.

asw7576

I use thick wire Y cable extension. One extension for battery, one extension for transponder, and one connection to receiver.

By doing this, I extend life of my receiver's pins tightness from frequent plug in - plug out. I just replace the Y extension cable when connections become bad.

I can seal the receiver with a ballon too because the plugs are remote now.

NitroNubee

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys have pictures of this wiring mod? That sounds like a really good trick! Please post.

asw7576

Here u go......... remember : thick Y wires.

wallyedmonds

are you using a check valve on your fuel line


cheater (joking)

asw7576

No..... they passed the test in big races...... , it is 75cc ( no cheating , no bs )

I use additional in-line filter for double protection. Sometimes I see particles inside the filter u know.

NitroNubee

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for puting those up, asw! You guys are really good! I am getting so aggrevated at mine that I am thinking about going electric. I am not worthy!

wallyedmonds

dont think that

asw7576

Hey, your welcome.

Don't give up yet....... I was a dumb nitro racer too ( 2004 ) .....

Keep playing nitro and play in this thread , ok ?

NitroNubee

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot guys! I appreciate the support and the comrodery (sp?)of this forum. I know nothing compared to most people on here but I feel it is the best way to get better. It is like playing tennis (or similar) against a pro. You get your ass kicked all the time but it will eventually elevate your game, too. Don't worry, I won't give up yet.

~Nubee~

va_connoisseur

Just picked up this little baby, dropped in a couple of 3000mAh batteries. Took about an hour to get it setup and decided I would share the measurements here. Look for the right up in a couple of days on www.teamkhaos.com.

The measurements are in MM. I tried to make the measurement points clear, but if you have questions, drop me a PM.

asw7576

Great Information ...... Wow, correct up to two decimals :


I quit using starter box with belt and non flat bed type .....

olev

I'm using the same box (but with LRP logo on it), but I use the front adjustment part that you get with the car (meant for Mugen box). As the box is somewhat short, it has to be installed on the front edge of the box, pretty much on the inclined part already, and the lower side of the piece has to be cut (there are 2 ridges that are supposed to align it to the Mugen box). As I'm lazy, I just use one screw (left one) to fix it to the starterbox slot, works perfectly. If I was any less lazy, I would drill another hole in the box so that the nosepiece would be really well fixed to the box.
Looks a lot nicer and cleaner without the "wings" on the box. I can really throw the car on the box and it goes on correct 100% of the time... hell, even my mechanic can get this right most of the time Too bad I'm too lazy to take a picture of it now