68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
05-23-2008, 05:58 AM
#9271
hey guy's I'm looking for a decent starting set up for a TaO5r. It will be for stock racing on ashpalt on a medium size track with decent traction, rubber tire also.
The car is bone stock. This is the wife's car. so I need a soft setup. as she is not an aggressive driver(well drive rc's anyway. real cars that a different story. hehehe)
also is there anything I should do the car. I heard throught the grapevine that there could be a problem with static electric with the chassis.
we have some tuning options as I run a 415 series car.
cheers
The car is bone stock. This is the wife's car. so I need a soft setup. as she is not an aggressive driver(well drive rc's anyway. real cars that a different story. hehehe)
also is there anything I should do the car. I heard throught the grapevine that there could be a problem with static electric with the chassis.
we have some tuning options as I run a 415 series car.
cheers
As far as a setup, I would do the following
2 hole pistons all the way around
50wt oil FT
40wt oil RR
1 degree toe OUT FT
2 degrees + toe IN RR (more than 2 if you need more bite)
2-2.5 degrees negative camber all the way around
camber links in middle position with a slight down angle (go to inside position if car is too aggressive)
Shocks in outside holes on arms / 1 position from straight up on the shock tower
4 degree caster blocks (makes the car less twitchy)
Start with no sway bars and add a front one if you need it.
Tires will depend on what the actual surface and weather conditions are like
Inserts the same
This is a modified version of my carpet set up taking into consideration that outdoors will usually yield looser conditions (less bite). Longer camber links will slow the reaction of the suspension so the car does not want to "swap" ends
Just my $.05
2-2.5
06-05-2008, 12:57 AM
#9274
Has anyone got a good setup for foams on a very small, technical track? I have the 3racing graphite chassis which is good for foams as its very stiff, I worked out a good setup a while ago but lost it 
Final drive ratio for the same place on rubber tyres is 8.5>9.0
so thats how small the track is, I need a lot of low speed steering.
Final drive ratio for the same place on rubber tyres is 8.5>9.0
so thats how small the track is, I need a lot of low speed steering.
06-05-2008, 03:44 AM
#9275
Primarily, the most important things for me to get the car dialled are roll centres and spring rates, I can probably figure the rest out 
06-05-2008, 05:43 AM
#9276
Took my 05R to its first asphalt race yesterday. It was still set up for carpet, so I didn't expect anything from it. That was fine with me, since there were only 2 other people racing stock TC. Both of the other guys were using foams and brushless motors, I was sticking with my CS-27s and CO27. My first run was pretty hairy, I was skidding all over the place. Changed shock angle, took off the rear swaybar, and installed softer springs in the rear and that helped a lot. Did some more practice between rounds and decided to try the spool up front (had a ball diff). Car became much more driveable, stable on power and didn't want to spin-out. Lost a little turn in, but I got my confidence back when I was exiting the corners on throttle. Ended up being TQ, and one of the other guys dropped out because of breakage. It was me and one other kid, we were neck-and-neck the first 3 laps, then I started to gain some ground when he ran into the road-domes. I secured my lead when he lost a front wheel as he was turning into the front stretch. Cruised the rest of the time, though I must have still be going fast because I set a new track lap record. Can't say I was not proud for my first time on asphalt with a totally out of whack setup!
06-05-2008, 05:57 AM
#9277
Bigb11- Not sure if this will help you but at the track in the link I was using 72/24 which gives a final drive ratio of 6.75. (Sorex 24 tyres) This was with a monster stock based motor.
The lower the ratio the more you have the keep the speed of the car up in the infield, or you wont have enough grunt to come out the corners with
I finished 3rd overall in the series.
http://www.adurrc.org/Webpages/news/winter%20seris.htm
hth
The lower the ratio the more you have the keep the speed of the car up in the infield, or you wont have enough grunt to come out the corners with
I finished 3rd overall in the series.http://www.adurrc.org/Webpages/news/winter%20seris.htm
hth
06-05-2008, 09:05 AM
#9278
What speed control works best inside the tao5-r. I am running the original chassis. I have heard the xbr is really tight and cannot sit down all the way. Also heard the gtb can fit ok depending on which way you face it. What about the lrp and is everyone else finding the same results.
Peace Aaron(W-W)
Peace Aaron(W-W)
06-05-2008, 11:33 AM
#9279
TAO5 Driveline breakin
All,
I purchased a TAO5R last night and am excited to begin putting it together. After reading though the board there have been several build tips offered but not much discussion on how to accompish some of these tips. I want to make sure that I get the car build properly the first time, and am asking your help to get me pointed in the right direction.
Degreasing the bearings:
How/what are you useing as a process to degrease them and susequently reoil them? I have access to Trininty Royal oil/ 3-n-1 oil/ and sewing machine oil for the reooil process. What would you use?
Driveline breaking:
One suggestion I read on the board was to break-in the driveline to groove the bearing races, however there were no suggestions as to the best way accomplish this task. Looking at the manual it appears that at step five the driveline is installed and I could mount a junk motor and run it for a period of time. If that is the best way how long do i run it for and at how many volts?
Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.
Majic
I purchased a TAO5R last night and am excited to begin putting it together. After reading though the board there have been several build tips offered but not much discussion on how to accompish some of these tips. I want to make sure that I get the car build properly the first time, and am asking your help to get me pointed in the right direction.
Degreasing the bearings:
How/what are you useing as a process to degrease them and susequently reoil them? I have access to Trininty Royal oil/ 3-n-1 oil/ and sewing machine oil for the reooil process. What would you use?
Driveline breaking:
One suggestion I read on the board was to break-in the driveline to groove the bearing races, however there were no suggestions as to the best way accomplish this task. Looking at the manual it appears that at step five the driveline is installed and I could mount a junk motor and run it for a period of time. If that is the best way how long do i run it for and at how many volts?
Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.
Majic
06-05-2008, 02:59 PM
#9280
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Has anyone updated their TA05/R to the 18T center and 37 pulleys?
Can someone confirm that the standard TA05 diff joints (53849) will fit the bigger diff plates (51287) used on 416 and IFSR.
I think they will both have about 15mm inner dia it just doesnt have the locking tabs so you have to rough em up and glue em.
Can someone confirm that the standard TA05 diff joints (53849) will fit the bigger diff plates (51287) used on 416 and IFSR.
I think they will both have about 15mm inner dia it just doesnt have the locking tabs so you have to rough em up and glue em.
06-05-2008, 03:30 PM
#9281
What speed control works best inside the tao5-r. I am running the original chassis. I have heard the xbr is really tight and cannot sit down all the way. Also heard the gtb can fit ok depending on which way you face it. What about the lrp and is everyone else finding the same results.
Peace Aaron(W-W)
Peace Aaron(W-W)
06-05-2008, 03:56 PM
#9282
bearings
Hi Majic,
For me WD40 works well to decrease. Film canister, shake bearings in it. Some say avoid WD40 and use acetone or thinner, but ive tried it, acetone will sometimes eat the rubber shielding causing binding.
One drop of Trinity royal oil after decreasing seems fine. Too much might actually cause more resistance, friction, and maybe faster wear.
thanks
joel
For me WD40 works well to decrease. Film canister, shake bearings in it. Some say avoid WD40 and use acetone or thinner, but ive tried it, acetone will sometimes eat the rubber shielding causing binding.
One drop of Trinity royal oil after decreasing seems fine. Too much might actually cause more resistance, friction, and maybe faster wear.
thanks
joel
06-05-2008, 06:06 PM
#9283
People were using those DB01/501X diff rings on their 415's for the "16-ball rear diff" mod. They should work just fine with your standard TA05 out-drives (which are probably the same as IFS-R). Just keep in mind the large diff rings are not keyed like the standard rings. This means that if your out-drives are plastic, it will be necessary to rubber cement the rings in place. If you have aluminum hop-up out-drives, rubber cement isn't necessary...
06-05-2008, 06:12 PM
#9284
PS: If you use the original style 36T pulley (NON wide-pitch), you can build yourself some diffs with 16 balls. Simply install the larger diff rings and 1 ball into each hole in pulley. That's right, all 16...
This is useful for running mod class where the rear-diff really takes a beating and you still want to keep the 36T pulleys.
Of course the new 37T pulleys use 12 balls, so this should already up the reliability...
This is useful for running mod class where the rear-diff really takes a beating and you still want to keep the 36T pulleys.
Of course the new 37T pulleys use 12 balls, so this should already up the reliability...
06-05-2008, 07:00 PM
#9285
What speed control works best inside the tao5-r. I am running the original chassis. I have heard the xbr is really tight and cannot sit down all the way. Also heard the gtb can fit ok depending on which way you face it. What about the lrp and is everyone else finding the same results.
Peace Aaron(W-W)
Peace Aaron(W-W)