stumper

iTrader: (2)

probably like $8 shipped thru standard mail. Let me test it out this weekend to make sure its all good before I try to sell them.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

Cool I'm getting one of those.

ChadCapece

If they work for you, you'll sell one to every BD owner with $8.00 to spare

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

I'll pick one up of those steering plate also.

Ali Graham

I'm guessing the 3 holes on your version are in the same place as the front, middle and rear holes on the std plate? Very nice, good work! Just wonderin about what happens if you would normally run in the 2nd from front and std hole positions? I've gotta get me one of these, but tbh I've never broken a rack yet in the 7 months of racing the bd twice a week indoors and out, but better safe than sorry!

stumper

iTrader: (2)

Yeah thats the holes that I used. I could easily add the others if needed. I originaly did it like that because I was going to use 3mm c/f and wanted to make it alittle more stronger right there. But with the alum . I dont see it being very weak with all the holes.

onroad dude

iTrader: (13)

ok dumb ? if i counted the pullys right and did the math right the I.R. of this car is 2.00 am i right or not?

stumper

iTrader: (2)

Yeah its 2.0 .

TC_Tuner

iTrader: (34)

here's a few pic of my BD...

FYI, Tamiya (sp?) rear sway bars fit pretty good with a simple bend on the ends. Need to be careful to bend them so the bar is flat, but worked pretty good.

See the rear on my chassis image.

10-4
TC_Tuner
Eric

Zacharopoulos

looks very nice but it would be nicer if the steering plate was blue anonized!!!!!!

TC_Tuner

iTrader: (34)

for my rack, I chose to make it out of steel. Weight wan't a concern to me for a small part - function was top priority. I sprayed clear over it so it wouldn't rust too easy. No anno on steel, from what I know.

The new plate, new RPM ball cups, and installing the linkage on the bottom as made all the difference. What was once the weakest area of the car is now bomb proof.

TC_Tuner

DaveC

iTrader: (7)

TC-Tuner,

I noticed that it doesn't appear that you are running a schottky diode with your Novak GT7. Do you experience any problems running a 27t motor like that? Any help would be appreciated, as I am trying to clean up the wiring on my BD.

Thanks,

DaveC

JohnDoe

I've seen alot of setups that have the front C-hub mounted from the lower hole to the arms. I guess the spacer below the steering knuckle has to be moved above? What's the benefit from this compared to the stock setup?
Just by looking at it I noticed that by doing this the upper kingpin is binding the steering when tightened, as the unthreaded sectiong of the pin is not long enough to make the pin sit tight on the knuckle. Hard to explain but I hope someone understands....

caveman

The lower holes has better turn in and better on power steer, but a little bit less in mid-corner. Most people are using the lower holes/spacers on top set up now.You can mount the camber link on the shoulder( one of the three holes, usually the middle one), or you can dremel, grind down the top of the C-hub by exactly 1mm(better have a digital caliper), the kingpin ball can thread all the way in without binding, the ball cup will not rub the wheel. Oh don't forget to set the front shocks to 62mm.

JohnDoe

Is'nt there a big difference in behaviour of the car when using one of the three holes in the shoulder vs. the "normal" position?