monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

If you're bored and want to read a little more, here's a pretty good document on basic setup...HERE!

It will download as a .doc file, btw. If you just want to roam his site, I think this is it.

c-lyon

iTrader: (8)

If these are the big internal spacers I'll bring some tonight, Jim.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, Colin. You're the KING.

Funny, can't find any of these things in N. America, but shops in Europe and Australia are offering loads of them for cheap. Also funny: They're under Tamiya 7-digit spares program, but the current part number has 8 digits. (2300010 is now 12300010)

tossedman

Thanks Jim,
More grist for the mill eh. Hope to get out to Carcar on Tuesday or Thursday for a bit of practice. Got a new radio coming from Santa (i know it's a bit early but my wife works that way. ). It should be here next week. (I hope)

Here's what I've been working on in the meantime. It's an M-05 pro chassis with the Orca Spark combo installed. I put a Kawada Borsche Speed Star body over top of it. Just because I could. It's the first body I've painted and turned out all right. Gotta practice more on that front as well.

marcos graveyar

Ran the M05 in LWB form for the first time today. On a high grip carpet I couldn't get the back end to stop skipping on tighter corners, I tried changing to less gripy tyres, tyres with more grip, soft springs, hard springs, it still skipped. Any thoughts ?

Basic set up,
Front:
Tyres - M-Grips, Spice 5.5mm Medium insert, no additive or glue on tyre.

Damper - TRF M Chassis, 400wt oil, 3 hole piston, one black O-ring under piston, red urethane bush above bladder, 56.25mm, red spring, outer hole on CF upper mount, M06 Ball shaft lower mount.

Camber - Standard link. Toe 2deg out

Rear:
Tyres M-Grips, Tamiya Hard insert, no additive or glue on tyre.

Damper - TRF M Chassis, 400wt oil, 3 hole piston, one black O-ring under piston, red urethane bush above bladder, 56.25mm, red spring, standard upper mount, standard lower mount.

Camber - Adjustable link with 2mm spacer Toe 1.5deg in, Silver anti roll bar.

bkspeedo

iTrader: (5)

I've come to find out with Mini's that ride height rake is a powerful setup option. I have an M03 but the overall geometries are similar (arm length, upper camber link ect.). I run a substantial amount if negative rake, front higher than the rear. Front ride height 10mm, rear side height 6mm. This helps stop weight transfer to the front keeping more weight on the rear tires which should help keep the rear of the car from skipping around. You may not need this much but give it a try.

Granpa

Try increasing the rear camber. You also may try going to softer springs.

Another reason for running the front ride height higher than the rear is that you also get a camber adjustment. Most of the time on hi-grip surfaces, 5mm front and 4mm rear is a workable starting point.

I've done quite a bit of testing on hi-grip asphalt and have found that in my hands, the LWB is about 0.5 sec per lap slower. On lower grip surfaces, the LWB is just fine and is my preference there.

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

I'm having a steering/handling issue with my M05. On carpet the car is very twitchy and rotates very easy, but the rear isn't sliding and tends to roll very easy. I have my radio turned all the way down on speed as well as expo on steering and throttle. EPA is at 70% l/r. Is there anything else electronically I can do? I'm using a m11x.

How about mechanically? The car is on Sweep 33's (spec tires) In LWB with the JCW coupe body. I do have about 21 grams under the servo and the front bumper lower cavity filled with lead, its about 17 grams total.

Setup

Front

Tires - Sweep 33

Shocks - 3 hole, 1mm oring, 500, blue, 57mm

Adjustables - kit camber, 2* toe out, 3.5mm ride height

Rear

Tires - Sweep 33

Shocks - 3 hole, 1mm oring, 350, yellow, 57mm

Adjustables - kit, but do have the adjustable link not installed yet 4.5mm ride height

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Double post

urban

hello I came across spec m-05
and the q is do you guys use the extra heavy alum .pcs? for racing?
motor heat sink or do you buy the alum . motor mount or skip them both? (orca motor doesnt need any help with heat?)
what about the alum plate for the rear wheels?
thanks for any info

niznai

I will mention this because you didn't say what your radio gear is. First you need to check if indeed your exponential is doing what you think it is. I say this because it seems there might be differences between makes. Some soften the servo response at positive expo some soften it at negative. Logic would have you think you need negative exponential to soften the servo response because you need a logarithmic not exponential response curve. Manufacturers don't necessarily follow this logic though. Have a little test with your gear and with the results in hand you'll know.

More from the more knowledgeable.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

My Spektrum has expo backwards. It was really annoying until I figured that out.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

lol

yeah you want it in the positive range not negative

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Can you double check you dont have your rear uprights on the wrong side? You should have toe IN on the rear. We had this problem on someones car last Sunday, once the issue was found and rectified, the car was fine.

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Thanks for all the tips. I will check those all out and give it a try tomorrow night!