Indy

I am thinking of buying some 3000s cheap from a sponsored guy. They are not the new HVs, but they are in the old sanyo heatshrink and have voltages of around 1.150 @ 30amps.
Does anyone know what the difference between these cells and the new green ones is?

Cheers

stefan

DON'T!!!

The old Sanyos as well as the blue Panasonics were crap.

Stick with either HV or SMH

FactoryteamTc3

these cell are the best and they should be used its great we have them ,more power!!!then will all be rollin'

FactoryteamTc3

Hey chris what servo should i run outdoors im not sure yet w/b asap im racing my tc3 this weekend hope you can keep up also!!!just kiddind also is mike webb going to be there?

Damon_KJ7E

I have gracefully retracted my previously inflammatory post.

melvin

fellow racers,

Pls advise. Do you:

1. Sand your batteries/battery bars before soldering?

2. Do you tin both side of your battery bars before soldering?

Also, how do you use the liquid flux? Do you dip your solder in it or do you apply on top the battery bars first?

What is the best method to solder your batt without hurting them?

Thank you


Regards,
mel

rccarracer

See the trick to getting new stuff here in Australia is ordering from the US. I got my HV's sometime at the end of last year from Stormer Hobbies. They are SMC's and are awesome.
But here in Australia SMC don't have a distributor. It's my understanding they don't have one outside of the US. But that might of changed since this was last discussed in January.

sosidge

melvin - my method is to lightly sand/clean the batteries, but I leave the bars (I've spent all that money on a silver coating I might as well leave it there!).

I then tin both the batteries and the bars, befor assembling them into the jig, feeding a little more solder in to leave a nice "wet" looking joint.

The best way to aviod damaging the batteries is to not heat them up too much - use a powerful iron (60-100W), and try to keep it on the surface of the cells for as little time as possible.

The problem with the little irons is that they will heat up the whole cell before the surface gets to the melting point.

I don't use seperate flux myself, just yer average multicore stuff.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Correct, though I personally don't bother to tin the bars, that can wait till you're assembling the pack. But I do tin the ends of each cell, & then I put a bit of solder through the bars as I'm heating them all up in the battery jig, & just let the solder flow through the holes in the bar......

Pyramid

Guys, do not sand the batteries. Use "Autosol", that how we called in here-Indonesia, to clean both end. It will make your soldering job easly and its coating will automatically suck up that solder.

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

hey, i have a question for you guys, sorry i dont have time to read the thread right now have to go to work, i assembled a pack of some smc hv cells 4 or 5 days ago and i wont be using them for the first time for another 3 weeks or so, so my question is how should i store them until then, like 15 minutes at 4 amps or somthing like that? thanks

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well, if you haven't used them yet then don't worry about it, they can sit as they do on the shelf for several weeks(if not months). I wouldn't worry about it until you've run the packs a few times & may have to store them for awhile after that.....

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks i had forgot all about them and was wondering if i was supposed to half charge them for storage or somthing.

Danny/SMC

iTrader: (2)

spaz456: I have packs that we raced at the Snowbirds in Febuary that I cycled last week and the numbers were fine so the HV's do have a good shelf life.

corally

Hi

i have buy a 3000 sanyo NORMAL but the label declare

1.154 volt and 399 sec @ 30A.....

The cell is marked HR this us the sigle of 3000HV ?

Thank