3LikesXray T4 2016
03-17-2017, 02:10 AM - Wikipost
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10-30-2015, 07:57 AM
#197
I've just done exactly the same. TRF > Xray
I've built two 16's in the past couple of weeks now.
- very few shims required compared to TRF, but still good to use some on the driveshafts on the inside
- don't use the diff O Ring
- watch out for little bits of swarf in the threads. This is a little disappointing on the first kit, hopefully mine was a one off (two locations) as it wasn't present on the second.
- ball studs are mug tighter than Tamiya. Best to insert the stud into the plastic turnbuckle end and THEN screw into the bulkheads etc. Easier than if you snap on after.
- with the servo saver, again, tighter than Tamiya. Assemble the two plastic halves and then snap on the springs. Almost impossible to get the springs on and then combine the two plastic halves.
- for the roll bars, insert the bearings into the bulkheads and then thread the bars through (followed by the orange holders). Do this before putting on turnbuckles for ease.
That's all I can think of at the moment!
I've built two 16's in the past couple of weeks now.
- very few shims required compared to TRF, but still good to use some on the driveshafts on the inside
- don't use the diff O Ring
- watch out for little bits of swarf in the threads. This is a little disappointing on the first kit, hopefully mine was a one off (two locations) as it wasn't present on the second.
- ball studs are mug tighter than Tamiya. Best to insert the stud into the plastic turnbuckle end and THEN screw into the bulkheads etc. Easier than if you snap on after.
- with the servo saver, again, tighter than Tamiya. Assemble the two plastic halves and then snap on the springs. Almost impossible to get the springs on and then combine the two plastic halves.
- for the roll bars, insert the bearings into the bulkheads and then thread the bars through (followed by the orange holders). Do this before putting on turnbuckles for ease.
That's all I can think of at the moment!
Also had tight arms, needed to do a light sanding (1200grit) then polish with mothers to get them to move free (but without slop). Polish first, if they're still tight, then try something like 2000 grit or 1500, re-polish and try again. Don't want them sloppy loose, but need to be free.
Seth
10-30-2015, 08:34 AM
#198
Same as above. I had two screws messed up as well.
Also had tight arms, needed to do a light sanding (1200grit) then polish with mothers to get them to move free (but without slop). Polish first, if they're still tight, then try something like 2000 grit or 1500, re-polish and try again. Don't want them sloppy loose, but need to be free.
Seth
Also had tight arms, needed to do a light sanding (1200grit) then polish with mothers to get them to move free (but without slop). Polish first, if they're still tight, then try something like 2000 grit or 1500, re-polish and try again. Don't want them sloppy loose, but need to be free.
Seth
A. you had the pivot block holders the correct way around, as the chamfer for the inserts is deeper on one side.
B. The block holders were tightened down 'correctly', i.e. I had to hold the individual holders at the back with a pair of pliers to stop them rotating whilst being tightened down.
I only ask as I don't know of anyone ever having to sand the wishbones. If they've been tight, there has always been a reason other than the width of the wishbones.
Skiddins
10-30-2015, 08:42 AM
#199
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
http://stormerhobbies.com
Stormer carries the full line of Hudy oils.
I believe Xray changed the branding on their cst oils to Hudy.
Stormer carries the full line of Hudy oils.
I believe Xray changed the branding on their cst oils to Hudy.
10-30-2015, 08:51 AM
#200
10-30-2015, 08:54 AM
#201
10-30-2015, 11:27 AM
#202
Are you sure that;
A. you had the pivot block holders the correct way around, as the chamfer for the inserts is deeper on one side.
B. The block holders were tightened down 'correctly', i.e. I had to hold the individual holders at the back with a pair of pliers to stop them rotating whilst being tightened down.
I only ask as I don't know of anyone ever having to sand the wishbones. If they've been tight, there has always been a reason other than the width of the wishbones.
Skiddins
A. you had the pivot block holders the correct way around, as the chamfer for the inserts is deeper on one side.
B. The block holders were tightened down 'correctly', i.e. I had to hold the individual holders at the back with a pair of pliers to stop them rotating whilst being tightened down.
I only ask as I don't know of anyone ever having to sand the wishbones. If they've been tight, there has always been a reason other than the width of the wishbones.
Skiddins
10-30-2015, 03:15 PM
#203
When you described using sandpaper etc, I thought you meant on the arms, not the pivot pins.
I check them regularly and use 1500 grit with the pins in a Dremel to reduce the friction between the pins and the arms.
10-30-2015, 08:40 PM
#206
It comes with both standard and ARS arms. You can build the ARS set to have it ready if you want to try it out during practice.
10-30-2015, 09:59 PM
#207
10-31-2015, 02:58 AM
#208
The pins are almost certainly machined accurately, so I wouldn't advise sanding them. If the arms are a touch tight on the pins, you just need to run a 3mm reamer through the arms, then they will be perfect.
10-31-2015, 08:33 AM
#209
10-31-2015, 08:35 AM
#210
Not only that, but the arms are consumables, the pins are not (or shouldn't be). What do you do when you change arms and find the new one is too sloppy on the pin you sanded down?