DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Maybe he just ordered it and it hasn't arrived yet?

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

If you would have assumed accurately you could have deducted from my post that I bought the new kit and it was on the way and I didn't have the manual nor was I looking at the online version.

That's why you should never assume.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Bingo. You have smarticals. Kit will be here Monday. Can't wait to build it. Be fun going from Tamiya to try something else.

Thanks EA for getting it here so quickly.

3D-Seth

iTrader: (33)

Did basic shakedown and several runs on my car today. Overall super happy with the car. Few points I noticed:

Car is fast and easy to drive with the kit setup.
Pushes slightly mid-corner, but I'm sure with more time this can be tuned out
Servo saver works better than most other manufacturers I've used, but I still prefer an aluminum arm.
Track I run on is fairly rough, kit damping was a little soft, went up a notch in shock oil, as going up in springs seemed to hurt the way the car drove versus the kit setup.
Car holds speed through corners well, except for that slight push mentioned above. Good on power steering while still being stable and not really any oversteer unless you throw it into the corner.
Was on pace within the first 10 laps, and actually ahead of pace by quite a bit by the end of the session. I have yet to run with the guys at this track so no idea what the skill level is like here though...

Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the car, can't wait to get more time on it.

Seth

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Try two hole front arms using the outside hole, usually cleans up the mid-corner push for me.

niznai

Okay then. Why would you worry that there is something you don't understand when you don't have the manual, nor do you have the car you're worrying about building?

What you're saying is that I should have supposed you put the cart before the horse then.

My mistake, of course.

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

Selling my one race old 2016 car with Avid CF chassis if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...t4-2016-a.html

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Well I got the kit today and started the build. So far so good with only a few snags.

The small gears in the diff need to be sanded a bit. When they popped off the tree they were a little burred and would not mess real well. All good now.

The arms are free except for one rear in the right. It is not tight but not as free as the others. I tried polish but no luck. I do not have a reamer so I am just going to see if they free up after a pack or so, if not I will call in for support at the track.

I did buy the upgraded steering arms so those are installed. I had to take a break at the sway bar step. More tomorrow but fun so far.

niznai

You don't need a reamer to free the arm.

Go get yourself a proper jobber 3mm dia and a hand pin vice (I actually use a small detachable keyless drill chuck - gives more purchase). You can try with a run of the mill 3mm drill bit, but there is some risk there associated with what the manufacturer considers "fit for purpose" quality.

A good quality bit will open the holes (push it in and out without twisting so the cutting edge of the bit does the job by "shaving" the inside of the hole) exactly to 3mm which is the hinge pin diameter (and from experience Xray is quite accurate there). Polishing the pins will ruin them as you'll find out when you change the suspension arm next time.

Another thing I do, I try to swap the arms/suspension pins around in the hope that tolerances will add up in my favour by pairing the arms/pins differently. Doesn't really work with Xray (works sometimes with sloppier manufacturers), but it's better than polishing the pins.

R Dodge

I've never seen any negative effect to polishing hinge pins. I've been doing that for years on hinge pins and ballstuds of every xray I own whether it be TC or 1/12. There is no need to remove material from the pin, but polishing it with something like the Gravity polish or Mother's aluminum polish is safe. Polishing ballstuds & pins along with reaming the arms will ensure smooth and free movement even when the suspension has load on it on the track.

goin2dirt - If you haven't already, you could check that the arm mounts aren't too tight on the arm causing your bind. One quick way to make sure is to tap the front and rear of the arm a few times with the handle of one of your wrenches to push the arm mounts away from it. You can also influence how the mount sits on the chassis as you tighten the screws by simply pushing the arm toward the mount as you tighten. If that doesn't do it, then you'll likely need to ream the arm.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Thanks Dodge. I will give that a go. I know they flop no problem right up until I give the block screws that final tighten. Three are perfect, one is just a tad tight.

RobS

When I built my car my rear arms also were bound up pretty good... Didn't need to go as far as polishing the pins but a few taps with a heavy pair of pliers did the trick.

Skiddins

Is that 'one' the rear left, nearest the motor?

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

So this worked perfectly. I think the black holders were just not pushed in enough. Skiddins it was the right one opposite the motor.

I finished the build and have a few comments and questions.

First I cannot find the internal gear ratio for the car. What would that be?

There has got to be a different way folks are attaching the shocks on the bottom. I found myself not wanting to tighten the ball on that piece that screws into the arm as I was afraid to deform or scratch the ball. Anyone modify this approach?

I have had a belt tensioner on every on road car I own and it is optional for this car, is everyone using one?

Comments on the build: by far one of the easiest and quickest builds to do. I don't know if it is just the manual is written but it worked for me. I think the shocks will be interesting. From a build and a quality stand point they seem to be a few notches below the Tamiya ones I am used to. doesn't mean they won't perform. Again the way the shock attach are weird to me, different I guess. The steering seems to be way nicer and smoother with less slop then the Tamiya. Lastly that bumper is hardly a bumper.

Overall I cannot wait to get it out this weekend for a shakedown trip.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

1.9

Just use a 3mm wrench to remove the ball and all from the set screw, works just fine.

Some do, some don't. Certainly not required, but it doesn't hurt.

Get the RSD bumper or the XRAY hard bumper they came out with recently, it's pretty good also.