3LikesXray T4 2016
03-17-2017, 02:10 AM - Wikipost
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12-23-2015, 12:59 AM
#346
A quick question, the manual said the 3mm nut that holds the motor mount should be tight. However, guys at the track including those sponsored drivers said that nut should be loose to just holding the mount onto the chassis, not tightened. Anyone know the difference in feeling between tighting and not tighting the nut? Thanks
12-23-2015, 01:07 AM
#347
Originally Posted by blackshark3
A quick question, the manual said the 3mm nut that holds the motor mount should be tight. However, guys at the track including those sponsored drivers said that nut should be loose to just holding the mount onto the chassis, not tightened. Anyone know the difference in feeling between tighting and not tighting the nut? Thanks
12-23-2015, 03:01 AM
#348
Originally Posted by rcmart
It says do not tighten fully in the manual
12-23-2015, 03:19 AM
#349
Originally Posted by alecladanga
Leespeed and Panaracer fit perfectly.
Unfortunately, xenon doesn't
you could also try spec r as they fit as well as some hpi.
Unfortunately, xenon doesn't
you could also try spec r as they fit as well as some hpi.
12-23-2015, 03:22 AM
#350
Originally Posted by blackshark3
Look at the bracket at the lower right hand corner of step 2 at page 10, the bracket marked Important in bold. It said "The M3 nut must always be tightened fully". Leave the nut loose was only to hold it onto the chassis on assembly, then the motor mount has to be tightened in the order recommended
If you want to hear something really crazy, I've heard of some guys that remove the entire "T" plate from the front of the motor mount and just let it float. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try that one.
12-23-2015, 03:35 AM
#351
Tech Regular
Even with mod you can loosen the nut a bit. More flex at the back side. Makes it easier to drive, but can feel sluggish sometimes depending on other circumstances. But overall, in my experiene, it make the car more predictable.
12-23-2015, 05:33 AM
#352
Originally Posted by R Dodge
It's just another tuning option. With a locknut it is an option because the nut will still hold the screw but allow things to move a little under load. I've never tried it so I don't know exactly how it affects the car. The manual really can't suggest that because if people start stripping spur gears then that becomes Xray's fault.
If you want to hear something really crazy, I've heard of some guys that remove the entire "T" plate from the front of the motor mount and just let it float. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try that one.
If you want to hear something really crazy, I've heard of some guys that remove the entire "T" plate from the front of the motor mount and just let it float. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try that one.
It was only the head of that screw that prevented a lot of movement.
I accidentally ran it like that for a few meetings and had plenty of crashes.
It all survived.
12-23-2015, 05:45 AM
#353
Originally Posted by Skiddins
A while back I took out the center post and didn't realise I'd forgotten to put the nut and screw back in, so there was nothing holding it to the chassis. The L plate was still attached to the mount with the pan head screw.
It was only the head of that screw that prevented a lot of movement.
I accidentally ran it like that for a few meetings and had plenty of crashes.
It all survived.
It was only the head of that screw that prevented a lot of movement.
I accidentally ran it like that for a few meetings and had plenty of crashes.
It all survived.
12-23-2015, 05:51 AM
#354
Tech Initiate
Just curious. If someone was to get this as a first TC car to build, with a couple of locals that have already built it, how much trouble would he be in trying to get it built? In other words, is this a suitable kit for a newbie builder?
Also, the kit lists a number of optional parts and optional stuff like bearing grease? Are any of these essential if the car will be run on both carpet indoors and asphalt outdoors (no idea of traction levels)?
Will likely be run in novice at first, then a VTA-like spec, then 17.5 blinky stock, but not mod.
Trying to decide on a TC car to build. The build part is important because it is being used as a type of therapy to take my mind off medical issues.
Thanks in advance for any advice provided.
Marc
Also, the kit lists a number of optional parts and optional stuff like bearing grease? Are any of these essential if the car will be run on both carpet indoors and asphalt outdoors (no idea of traction levels)?
Will likely be run in novice at first, then a VTA-like spec, then 17.5 blinky stock, but not mod.
Trying to decide on a TC car to build. The build part is important because it is being used as a type of therapy to take my mind off medical issues.
Thanks in advance for any advice provided.
Marc
12-23-2015, 06:28 AM
#355
Originally Posted by StillLearning
Just curious. If someone was to get this as a first TC car to build, with a couple of locals that have already built it, how much trouble would he be in trying to get it built? In other words, is this a suitable kit for a newbie builder?
Also, the kit lists a number of optional parts and optional stuff like bearing grease? Are any of these essential if the car will be run on both carpet indoors and asphalt outdoors (no idea of traction levels)?
Will likely be run in novice at first, then a VTA-like spec, then 17.5 blinky stock, but not mod.
Trying to decide on a TC car to build. The build part is important because it is being used as a type of therapy to take my mind off medical issues.
Thanks in advance for any advice provided.
Marc
Also, the kit lists a number of optional parts and optional stuff like bearing grease? Are any of these essential if the car will be run on both carpet indoors and asphalt outdoors (no idea of traction levels)?
Will likely be run in novice at first, then a VTA-like spec, then 17.5 blinky stock, but not mod.
Trying to decide on a TC car to build. The build part is important because it is being used as a type of therapy to take my mind off medical issues.
Thanks in advance for any advice provided.
Marc
Most people in the hobby would agree that the Xray kits are generally some of the easiest to build & get started with. The manuals are pretty much the best in the industry as far as spelling out details and providing imagery to help. The kit will come with all of the oils and grease that you would need for the build. As for option parts, you can't go wrong with grabbing some of the different springs & sway bars. Having an assortment of silicon oils to tune your diff & shocks will help too. Since the kit now comes with ECS' there isn't much upgrading needed out of the box.
Xray is very durable, so the car will be good for novice & VTA as well. When you're ready to jump up to stock, you'll have a great & very capable platform to work with there as well.
Edit: the fact that you also have some locals who already have Xray will be a huge help as well. Having local help is a big plus for any brand of car.
12-23-2015, 07:54 AM
#357
Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly
Robbie, i see on your latest Birds testing setup you were running front arm sweep. Is that correct, and can you explain the change. I know it use to be big in my Cyclone days, but havent seen it used much in the rays.
I plan to update that setup sheet as I find different things that I like, so it may change slightly in 2 or 3 weeks.
01-02-2016, 11:10 AM
#360
Originally Posted by R Dodge
Yes, I feel it provides a little more initial steering & helps the car enter the corner better for my driving style. I haven't done much testing with this since February, so this is something that I do plan to readdress and test further in the near future, including different track widths, etc. Seems over the past month or two I've learned that some changes feel different from what I remember feeling last indoor season.
I plan to update that setup sheet as I find different things that I like, so it may change slightly in 2 or 3 weeks.
I plan to update that setup sheet as I find different things that I like, so it may change slightly in 2 or 3 weeks.
