Losi XXX-S
#571
Tech Initiate
STLNLST, nice job kicking b..tt looks like we found the same car again.
#573
Anyone have a setup for a XXX-S on carpet for a stock motor? (GM3). The one on the Losi site is Andrew Grey's and he races mod at the Track that I race at.
#574
Suspended
????
Originally posted by SirSpeedy
RC & Dragon-
"Diffing" can mean two things. One meaning is when the diff slips under acceleration, and makes a chirping of barking noise.
Another meaning of diffing is when the car suffers a great deal of body roll, and actually pics one of the inside tires up off the ground, this will actually unload the diff, and allow the inside tire that is off the ground to spin the opposite direction.
RC & Dragon-
"Diffing" can mean two things. One meaning is when the diff slips under acceleration, and makes a chirping of barking noise.
Another meaning of diffing is when the car suffers a great deal of body roll, and actually pics one of the inside tires up off the ground, this will actually unload the diff, and allow the inside tire that is off the ground to spin the opposite direction.
The wheel that is off the ground WILL NOT spin backwards!
It simply gets all the power delivered to it and causes a loss of traction on that side of the differential. sometimes referred to as Diffing...
#575
R/C Tech Founder
mike_Webb: I used Paul Lemieux's setup from Team Losi's website for carpet with rubber tires. The only change I would make to it is throw a one-way in the front and underdrive it, assuming the one-way was actually available.
I also used TQ Orange compound on the rears and about 1/4 on the fronts, using Sorex 24s all around. Let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off about two or three minutes before you go to the tech area.
I also used TQ Orange compound on the rears and about 1/4 on the fronts, using Sorex 24s all around. Let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off about two or three minutes before you go to the tech area.
#577
R/C Tech Founder
Well, personally I would use GS ballcups over RPM, but that's just me.
You would have to rethread the holes for 3mm studs like I did, but it's no problem at all really.
You would have to rethread the holes for 3mm studs like I did, but it's no problem at all really.
#579
hey guys...dragon..try rossetis setup on losis site....
#580
MrLosi...the xxx-s is actually my son's, but i'll check it out...I am driving a TC-3 right now.
#581
Tech Adept
what's the weight on the xxxs race ready (in grams please)?
#582
Hello all,
Just returned from the NORRCA Nats last night and thought that I would post what seemed to work well up there. Large flowing track with TONS of traction
Front:
Losi purple springs
50wt oil
Stock piston
Top shock location: 2
Ride height 5.5mm
Camber link in #1
AE 2 degree caster blocks
2 degree kick up
Kydex front bumper brace
Rear:
Losi blue springs
50wt oil
Stock piston
Top shock mounting : 3
Ride height 5.5mm
Camber link #2
0 degree anti squat
Reedy Ti 11x2
LRP v7.1
Airtronics receiver
Airtronics 94257
Promatch SMH 3000's in front position.
Yokomo 138G's - with firm 24mm inserts.
Yokomo dish wheels
Sorex 36R's - with 26mm firm Yoke inserts on Yokomo dish wheels
Protoform Vauxhall body - wing mounted in rearmost position
I think that's it.
Ended up finishing 2nd in Sports Mod, qualified 9th. Losi car worked great!!!
Wilde
Just returned from the NORRCA Nats last night and thought that I would post what seemed to work well up there. Large flowing track with TONS of traction
Front:
Losi purple springs
50wt oil
Stock piston
Top shock location: 2
Ride height 5.5mm
Camber link in #1
AE 2 degree caster blocks
2 degree kick up
Kydex front bumper brace
Rear:
Losi blue springs
50wt oil
Stock piston
Top shock mounting : 3
Ride height 5.5mm
Camber link #2
0 degree anti squat
Reedy Ti 11x2
LRP v7.1
Airtronics receiver
Airtronics 94257
Promatch SMH 3000's in front position.
Yokomo 138G's - with firm 24mm inserts.
Yokomo dish wheels
Sorex 36R's - with 26mm firm Yoke inserts on Yokomo dish wheels
Protoform Vauxhall body - wing mounted in rearmost position
I think that's it.
Ended up finishing 2nd in Sports Mod, qualified 9th. Losi car worked great!!!
Wilde
#583
Oh yeah -
Car had as much graphite as I could get my hands on - arms, shock towers, and chassis - and still weighed in at 54.2 OZ!!!!
Car had as much graphite as I could get my hands on - arms, shock towers, and chassis - and still weighed in at 54.2 OZ!!!!
#584
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Just got my XXX-S!
I haven't begun to build it yet, as I'm still reading and re-reading the instructions. I also haven't opened any of the parts bags yet, however, I have taken time to examine the chassis. My initial impression is that this thing is stiff. Much stiffer than my current Yokomo MR4TC Special and any of the other 8 or 9 kits I've owned. This stiffness should be a good thing for racing indoors on carpet (our season has begun). I also notice that the chassis (as other have mentioned) seems very heavy.
I've read that the graphite composite chassis is 1 oz. lighter than the standard chassis, but is it lighter because of the cut-outs in the chassis or is it because the graphite composite material is lighter? I was wondering if the standard chassis had the very same cut-outs, what the difference in weight would be compared to the graphite. It seems to me that this chassis can't get much stiffer, so what's the advantage of using graphite composite unless it lighter.
Likes so far:
- I love the fact that the front and rear diffs are identical (fewer parts).
- overall design (is there another kit that's as easy to maintain?)
- It looks like building this kit will take half the time required to build my Yokomo
Anticipated dislikes:
- kit included turnbuckles
- some of the replacement and optional parts seem pricey compared to other manufacturers
- I don't like the idea of having to use a "thread cutting screw" to aid in installing screws
- it may sound petty, but I hate the color of the bumper
That's about it so far.
I've read that the graphite composite chassis is 1 oz. lighter than the standard chassis, but is it lighter because of the cut-outs in the chassis or is it because the graphite composite material is lighter? I was wondering if the standard chassis had the very same cut-outs, what the difference in weight would be compared to the graphite. It seems to me that this chassis can't get much stiffer, so what's the advantage of using graphite composite unless it lighter.
Likes so far:
- I love the fact that the front and rear diffs are identical (fewer parts).
- overall design (is there another kit that's as easy to maintain?)
- It looks like building this kit will take half the time required to build my Yokomo
Anticipated dislikes:
- kit included turnbuckles
- some of the replacement and optional parts seem pricey compared to other manufacturers
- I don't like the idea of having to use a "thread cutting screw" to aid in installing screws
- it may sound petty, but I hate the color of the bumper
That's about it so far.
#585
Gepetto
Just one tip:
Go to your hooby shop and buy yourself a 4/40 tap and pre-thread all the holes for the screws.
Otherwise you gonna end up like everybody I know, with blisters on your right (or left) hand
Go to your hooby shop and buy yourself a 4/40 tap and pre-thread all the holes for the screws.
Otherwise you gonna end up like everybody I know, with blisters on your right (or left) hand