New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
#2988
Ronald/Nico,
Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.
With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?
If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.
thanks,
Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.
With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?
If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.
thanks,
#2989
Tech Adept
@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.
other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?
thx for the help guys.
other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?
thx for the help guys.
#2990
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.
other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?
thx for the help guys.
other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?
thx for the help guys.
#2991
Tech Adept
We are running the WR/X chassis outdoors, the car has CRAZZZZY grip in 17.5 boosted. I setup and often drive my friends car a lot, and the car had so much grip today that even if i just touched a curb, the car would just roll from the side bite! It was freaking me out. Id recommend it on low/med grip tracks for sure. But the W chassis should work just as well.
edit: you have any latest setupsheets available for medium grip and sorex 36 tires?? would be highly appreciated
Last edited by vitomon; 04-26-2011 at 07:34 AM. Reason: forgot something :D
#2992
@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.
other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?
thx for the help guys.
other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?
thx for the help guys.
For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?
Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?
I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
#2993
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
thx antoni...are your tracks usually treated with sugar water before a race meeting?? our hometrack is. but still there is not nearly the grip of big race meetings like ETS where grip gets crazy. so probably the flex chassis is the way to go....
edit: you have any latest setupsheets available for medium grip and sorex 36 tires?? would be highly appreciated
edit: you have any latest setupsheets available for medium grip and sorex 36 tires?? would be highly appreciated
Antoni
#2994
Tech Adept
For low bite tracks, better if you use the high flex chassis; or you can try using plastic suspension arms because they flex. This will add grip to your car. With this, softer shock oil and springs as plus softer tire compound.
For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?
Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?
I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?
Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?
I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
the housing is the problem in my opinion. the wholes there get widened pretty easily and i will change that for the next meeting.
you are correct, the original yokomo cvd's hold up very much longer than others. never had to change them in 1/2 year. and even then the change was more of a precautionary meassure than a must.
#2995
Tech Adept
Our local track isnt, but it is rubber painted asphalt, so the grip is pretty good, and when it is hot the track has quite good bite. I can make a setup sheet if you'd like? I keep changing his setup, but the car is super easy to drive and has so much grip and steering on RP36 tyres. Im sure it would work on Sorex tyres aswell though
Antoni
Antoni
#2998
Tech Initiate
Ronald/Nico,
Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.
With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?
If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.
thanks,
Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.
With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?
If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.
thanks,
For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?
Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?
I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?
I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
#2999
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
in case anyone is interested, I have some Spec-R LCD/ECS-like drive shafts for the BD5 posted for sale. If you're a potential non-US buyer I'd be willing to ship them for an additional $10 USD --> http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...spr001-bd.html