R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-25-2011, 09:13 AM   #2986
Tech Elite
 
defcone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,344
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
I'm using TC6 blades, just have to enlarge the pin holes slightly, they're more durable that the Yokomo blades. Wonder if the others that are using Roche axles are running wider arms/holders?
I used tc5 blades before, the problem was that they were really hard and durable. With that, my diff outdrives wore down like nothing. I think yokomo made the boneblades soft so that you were replacing a 3 dollar part(?) instead.
defcone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2011, 08:22 PM   #2987
Tech Master
 
pcar951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cow Town
Posts: 1,705
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
I used tc5 blades before, the problem was that they were really hard and durable. With that, my diff outdrives wore down like nothing. I think yokomo made the boneblades soft so that you were replacing a 3 dollar part(?) instead.
I haven't seen any serious wear on mine but I'm using the Yokomo gear diff in the rear and the TC6 slipper spool in the front. Could it be that the ball diff outdrives are softer material?
pcar951 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 05:41 AM   #2988
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: QC
Posts: 386
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico' View Post
Hi,

it's exactly that, thank you Ronald! ;-)

Nico'
Ronald/Nico,

Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.

With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?

If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.

thanks,
__________________
Sanwa M11x/Tamiya 417x/Orion/Orca
jonp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:11 AM   #2989
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: AUSTRIA
Posts: 233
Send a message via ICQ to vitomon Send a message via Skype™ to vitomon
Default

@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.


other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?

thx for the help guys.
__________________
Infinity -- Orion ESC -- Sanwa M11x
May the grip be with you ... always!
vitomon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:23 AM   #2990
Tech Elite
 
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,405
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.


other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?

thx for the help guys.
We are running the WR/X chassis outdoors, the car has CRAZZZZY grip in 17.5 boosted. I setup and often drive my friends car a lot, and the car had so much grip today that even if i just touched a curb, the car would just roll from the side bite! It was freaking me out. Id recommend it on low/med grip tracks for sure. But the W chassis should work just as well.
__________________
Antoni Caretti

Team Yokomo - Racing Performer - Sweep Racing
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:33 AM   #2991
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: AUSTRIA
Posts: 233
Send a message via ICQ to vitomon Send a message via Skype™ to vitomon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
We are running the WR/X chassis outdoors, the car has CRAZZZZY grip in 17.5 boosted. I setup and often drive my friends car a lot, and the car had so much grip today that even if i just touched a curb, the car would just roll from the side bite! It was freaking me out. Id recommend it on low/med grip tracks for sure. But the W chassis should work just as well.
thx antoni...are your tracks usually treated with sugar water before a race meeting?? our hometrack is. but still there is not nearly the grip of big race meetings like ETS where grip gets crazy. so probably the flex chassis is the way to go....

edit: you have any latest setupsheets available for medium grip and sorex 36 tires?? would be highly appreciated
__________________
Infinity -- Orion ESC -- Sanwa M11x
May the grip be with you ... always!

Last edited by vitomon; 04-26-2011 at 08:34 AM. Reason: forgot something :D
vitomon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:34 AM   #2992
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: QC
Posts: 386
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.


other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?

thx for the help guys.
For low bite tracks, better if you use the high flex chassis; or you can try using plastic suspension arms because they flex. This will add grip to your car. With this, softer shock oil and springs as plus softer tire compound.

For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?

Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?

I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
__________________
Sanwa M11x/Tamiya 417x/Orion/Orca
jonp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:43 AM   #2993
Tech Elite
 
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,405
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
thx antoni...are your tracks usually treated with sugar water before a race meeting?? our hometrack is. but still there is not nearly the grip of big race meetings like ETS where grip gets crazy. so probably the flex chassis is the way to go....

edit: you have any latest setupsheets available for medium grip and sorex 36 tires?? would be highly appreciated
Our local track isnt, but it is rubber painted asphalt, so the grip is pretty good, and when it is hot the track has quite good bite. I can make a setup sheet if you'd like? I keep changing his setup, but the car is super easy to drive and has so much grip and steering on RP36 tyres. Im sure it would work on Sorex tyres aswell though

Antoni
__________________
Antoni Caretti

Team Yokomo - Racing Performer - Sweep Racing
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:45 AM   #2994
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: AUSTRIA
Posts: 233
Send a message via ICQ to vitomon Send a message via Skype™ to vitomon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp View Post
For low bite tracks, better if you use the high flex chassis; or you can try using plastic suspension arms because they flex. This will add grip to your car. With this, softer shock oil and springs as plus softer tire compound.

For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?

Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?

I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
in my opinion the "original" pins that come with the spec-R shafts are too "soft" bend easily. the little screws inside are too short what i found and heard and so i replaced them with a little longer ones.

the housing is the problem in my opinion. the wholes there get widened pretty easily and i will change that for the next meeting.

you are correct, the original yokomo cvd's hold up very much longer than others. never had to change them in 1/2 year. and even then the change was more of a precautionary meassure than a must.
__________________
Infinity -- Orion ESC -- Sanwa M11x
May the grip be with you ... always!
vitomon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:48 AM   #2995
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: AUSTRIA
Posts: 233
Send a message via ICQ to vitomon Send a message via Skype™ to vitomon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Our local track isnt, but it is rubber painted asphalt, so the grip is pretty good, and when it is hot the track has quite good bite. I can make a setup sheet if you'd like? I keep changing his setup, but the car is super easy to drive and has so much grip and steering on RP36 tyres. Im sure it would work on Sorex tyres aswell though

Antoni
any setup help is always appreciated ) would be great if you can draw one up. i normally run 13.5T no-boost class but i am trying to go for the modified class as well which is more fun
__________________
Infinity -- Orion ESC -- Sanwa M11x
May the grip be with you ... always!
vitomon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:57 AM   #2996
Tech Elite
 
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,405
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
any setup help is always appreciated ) would be great if you can draw one up. i normally run 13.5T no-boost class but i am trying to go for the modified class as well which is more fun
Hera ya go, it uses a ball diff. It would work well in Modified also when going to 550 shock oil, and a gear diff in the rear with maybe 1500 oil.

HTH.

Antoni
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BD5W Setup Sheet LowQuality- antoni-vince.pdf (320.5 KB, 149 views)
__________________
Antoni Caretti

Team Yokomo - Racing Performer - Sweep Racing
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 09:04 AM   #2997
Tech Elite
 
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,405
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

BTW someone do a setup sheet like that for the TCX, so i can keep my own setups saved on my PC
__________________
Antoni Caretti

Team Yokomo - Racing Performer - Sweep Racing
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 11:58 AM   #2998
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Germany
Posts: 20
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp View Post
Ronald/Nico,

Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.

With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?

If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.

thanks,
My experience is only with 5t Motors,but it happended to me that new spec-r double joints out of the box wihout any preparation the inside and also the outside pin (not in the same run) broke during the first try without touching anything. in my case it was bad luck as it should not happen, but you never know..

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitomon View Post

other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?

thx for the help guys.
I recommend the WX/R chassis on every outdoor track which has low,medium and medium-high grip (remember ETS Austria has high even higher grip-level with solaris tires). but its not like that the WS chassis would never work even on low and medium traction, it just could be slightly slower in my opinion depends on many facts like tires,asphalt,weather,layout...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp View Post
For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?

Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?

I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)
like VITOMON said, the pins are too soft and would replace them by the xray ones. the pin on the outdrive side could be also stronger, I got TOP pins which work great. and about the housing, just use enough grease when you prepare them. they are not perfect but at least it works
R.Völker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:01 PM   #2999
Tech Champion
 
hanulec's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 8,560
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

in case anyone is interested, I have some Spec-R LCD/ECS-like drive shafts for the BD5 posted for sale. If you're a potential non-US buyer I'd be willing to ship them for an additional $10 USD --> http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...spr001-bd.html
__________________
FJ / ROAR #2-122945 / MaxRotation FPV Drone Racing / [email protected] Awesomatix USA / Wild Turbo Fan / Mon-Tech Racing / RocheRC USA / Side Piece /
LRP / John's BSR Tires / TeamEAM / TQ Wire / R1 / Team Scream / PCR / MIX
RacerLog wiki Awesomatix A700 / 2wd offroad 4 life
hanulec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:02 PM   #3000
Tech Champion
 
hanulec's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 8,560
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
I'm using TC6 blades, just have to enlarge the pin holes slightly, they're more durable that the Yokomo blades. Wonder if the others that are using Roche axles are running wider arms/holders?
+1
The TC6 blades are great. They have been much more reliable within my Yokomo diff w/in my TOP Photon...
__________________
FJ / ROAR #2-122945 / MaxRotation FPV Drone Racing / [email protected] Awesomatix USA / Wild Turbo Fan / Mon-Tech Racing / RocheRC USA / Side Piece /
LRP / John's BSR Tires / TeamEAM / TQ Wire / R1 / Team Scream / PCR / MIX
RacerLog wiki Awesomatix A700 / 2wd offroad 4 life
hanulec is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Losi JRXS Kenshin Electric On-Road 13263 06-13-2016 04:39 PM
Yokomo MR4TC-BD mr.ng Electric On-Road 9094 02-05-2013 02:10 PM
Hey all, new to R/C Stin83 Electric On-Road 12 11-05-2005 10:29 AM
Is EP TC racing dying? Edwin Lee Malaysian R/C Racers 221 04-28-2005 12:46 AM
New 1/10 Touring Car ttektek Electric On-Road 63 03-21-2005 02:56 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:39 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net