defcone

iTrader: (15)

I used tc5 blades before, the problem was that they were really hard and durable. With that, my diff outdrives wore down like nothing. I think yokomo made the boneblades soft so that you were replacing a 3 dollar part(?) instead.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I haven't seen any serious wear on mine but I'm using the Yokomo gear diff in the rear and the TC6 slipper spool in the front. Could it be that the ball diff outdrives are softer material?

jonp

iTrader: (2)

Ronald/Nico,

Do the pins break easily? As compared to the original Yokomo CVD's which last very long and do not break, how long do they last? I still do not have the pins(Top), will the Spec-r pins bend or break during the first run? By the way, I run 13.5BL with boost.

With your experience wherein the pins break, what motor do you run?

If you can, pls pm me because I do not normally check this thread.

thanks,

vitomon

@Spec-R double CVD's: i used them for one race meeting in 13.5T boosted class. before the race i replaced all the pins with xray stuff and the little screws with the ones holding the pinion gear down normally. pins did not break a bit and are still ok, but the housing for the pins is very much rattled so there is a lot of play. i will replace the housing for the next meeting and try to grease it a little more.


other topic: are most people racing the flex-chassis outdoors? nobody running the original W chassis? we usually do not have that much grip here. so the flex-chassis would be the way to go?! any ideas what are your experiences?

thx for the help guys.

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

We are running the WR/X chassis outdoors, the car has CRAZZZZY grip in 17.5 boosted. I setup and often drive my friends car a lot, and the car had so much grip today that even if i just touched a curb, the car would just roll from the side bite! It was freaking me out. Id recommend it on low/med grip tracks for sure. But the W chassis should work just as well.

vitomon

thx antoni...are your tracks usually treated with sugar water before a race meeting?? our hometrack is. but still there is not nearly the grip of big race meetings like ETS where grip gets crazy. so probably the flex chassis is the way to go....

edit: you have any latest setupsheets available for medium grip and sorex 36 tires?? would be highly appreciated

jonp

iTrader: (2)

For low bite tracks, better if you use the high flex chassis; or you can try using plastic suspension arms because they flex. This will add grip to your car. With this, softer shock oil and springs as plus softer tire compound.

For the spec r universals, why do you need to change the pins? won't the spec r pins work? not durable even the pins near the spool outdrives?

Also, even when changing the pins, you mentioned that there is big play on the housing...are the components of the Spec r that weak?

I never encountered play on the housing and the pins with the original yokomo universals except after several months of practicing weekly.(of course with the continuous and generous application of anti-wear grease.)

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Our local track isnt, but it is rubber painted asphalt, so the grip is pretty good, and when it is hot the track has quite good bite. I can make a setup sheet if you'd like? I keep changing his setup, but the car is super easy to drive and has so much grip and steering on RP36 tyres. Im sure it would work on Sorex tyres aswell though

Antoni

vitomon

in my opinion the "original" pins that come with the spec-R shafts are too "soft" bend easily. the little screws inside are too short what i found and heard and so i replaced them with a little longer ones.

the housing is the problem in my opinion. the wholes there get widened pretty easily and i will change that for the next meeting.

you are correct, the original yokomo cvd's hold up very much longer than others. never had to change them in 1/2 year. and even then the change was more of a precautionary meassure than a must.

vitomon

any setup help is always appreciated ) would be great if you can draw one up. i normally run 13.5T no-boost class but i am trying to go for the modified class as well which is more fun

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Hera ya go, it uses a ball diff. It would work well in Modified also when going to 550 shock oil, and a gear diff in the rear with maybe 1500 oil.

HTH.

Antoni

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

BTW someone do a setup sheet like that for the TCX, so i can keep my own setups saved on my PC

R.Völker

My experience is only with 5t Motors,but it happended to me that new spec-r double joints out of the box wihout any preparation the inside and also the outside pin (not in the same run) broke during the first try without touching anything. in my case it was bad luck as it should not happen, but you never know..

I recommend the WX/R chassis on every outdoor track which has low,medium and medium-high grip (remember ETS Austria has high even higher grip-level with solaris tires). but its not like that the WS chassis would never work even on low and medium traction, it just could be slightly slower in my opinion depends on many facts like tires,asphalt,weather,layout...

like VITOMON said, the pins are too soft and would replace them by the xray ones. the pin on the outdrive side could be also stronger, I got TOP pins which work great. and about the housing, just use enough grease when you prepare them. they are not perfect but at least it works

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

in case anyone is interested, I have some Spec-R LCD/ECS-like drive shafts for the BD5 posted for sale. If you're a potential non-US buyer I'd be willing to ship them for an additional $10 USD --> http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...spr001-bd.html

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

+1
The TC6 blades are great. They have been much more reliable within my Yokomo diff w/in my TOP Photon...